mojothejester
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Posts posted by mojothejester
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and I've just found out, the manual says 20amp fuse is needed on 97-03 sr125's, but mine is a 95 and only has a 15amp fuse in. Does anyone know if earlier sr125's also use 20amp fuse?
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i have the same problem with my 1995 sr125, sometimes having extra power from knowhere and going up to 60mph, but usually it feels restricted and stays around 50mph. The other day I was riding 40 miles away to sell the bike, and it just suddenly stopped firing when I was on some A road. It started after a few minutes, but every half mile or so it would cut out. If I left it to cool it would start up again, but before I found that out I drained the battery and had to bump start it to get a bit of power back in the battery. (possibly some sort of electric item overheating maybe?)
So as well as surges in power now and then, another problem you may face is the engine cutting out while riding. Joy. Hopefully, this won't happen to you though, it's not pleasant pushing your bike for 6 miles to motorbike garage (across Runcorn Bridge too)
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I've wondered this too, my sr125 has no rev counter but I want one too...
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Hi again :-)
I've not used my bike much over winter, as we had one day of snow and i fell off at a roundabout, so i've been waiting for dry days to build confidence again. I went out on it the other day and it was revving freely for all of my 8 mile journey to the bike shop :-D weyhey! but on the way back, it didn't rev freely, and felt restricted in every gear. so i've been looking up what it could be.
1st. Carbs might need cleaning.
2nd. faulty CDi.
Then i decided to take the seat off to see what CDi it was, turns out it's the 4 + 4 connectors which are harder to get hold of :-(
Then i noticed a loose connector. Can anyone tell me what the circled bit is? it's on a 95 sr125, but my manual is for a 97 onwards. On my bike i've got the blue connector but the black bit on the connector is missing :-(
This is an image of a wiring loom i found on ebay. the seller is actually a breakers a couple of miles from here, but i just need to know if the bit i'm missing is important enough that i should go down and buy it.
Cheers :-)
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i did push them back straight against the kitchen wall
it worked, and i rode to the bike shop for a new indicator bulb, now i just need to build the confidence up on the slippy-looking corners again...Thanks
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They do return up ok, I'll check again in a bit. I'll have a go tomorrow at loosening stantions, don't want to start anything too late. Cheers guys :-)
Oh yeah, hope the car drivers were ok in their crashes
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I just had my first ever motorbike crash. A low speed one, coming up to a roundabout and still had hold of the front brake as I went over a bit of frost. Picked the bike up and got it home, gear lever bent and rear indicator dangling. I rebent the gear lever back in place and screwed the indicator back on. Luckily it had just come off and not broke. But as I was riding it home, I noticed the handlebars were slightly off centre. When I got in I had a better look, and I can't tell if its the forks that are slightly twisted or if the bars bent. Its not noticeable from any angle other than when you look from above and the headlight is pointing slightly to the left of the wheel, only by around 5-10°. How do I check if the forks are twisted? Thanks, Dave in skelmersdale
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Yeah give it a charge, my sr125 did the same
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Everything is standard, except I put the 16 tooth sprocket up front (up from 14). I just want to be able to go at 60mph without revving its nuts off, as I use quite a lot of A roads and would like to be able to stick with traffic, not get passed by every single vehicle. I was going at 50 today in 4th, pulled the clutch in and the revs shot up. Dropped the clutch again and the revs went back down and I stayed at 50. So I don't know what the problem is. If its not a simple fix I'll just leave it and trade it in for a newer bike, as it still runs ok at town speeds, which is what most people would use this bike for.
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hey again, sorry to bug you all, i got my sr125 working, also got a new 16 tooth sprocket on the front, but it still won't go any faster than before.
the rh panel did have holes drilled in, so i thought it may be running a bit lean. i was going along a straight, it was not accelerating past 50 so i covered one of the holes with my left hand and it started going faster (up to 62 before the corner came along).
i covered the holes, and now it still doesn't go faster. annoying. it revs freely sometimes, but the rest of the time it feels like there's a limiter lower in the rev range that shouldn't be there. when it revs freely i'll get 30mph in 1st, 40mph in 2nd, then i'm usually at a corner, then after the corner when i start going again it decides it doesn't want to go any faster than 50mph and won't rev as high.
someone mentioned a CDI is the thing that determines revs. could this be the problem?
Frustrated Dave
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Are the piston rings installed right? When mine died last month, the ring ends weren't in the position they're supposed to be, they were directly above the one underneath, so the seal wasn't effective, and the bike just wouldn't start or bump start. I put new piston and rings in and new gaskets and it works again now, even though it still doesn't run on full power...
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one last quick thing (for a while), the previous owner has drilled the airbox cover so it has two 2" holes in it, one on the side and one facing the front. will that affect the power surges i keep having? was thinking of putting k&n cone air filter on and taking the airbox out... and i've got a blue electrical connector hanging loose which, according to the manual, should be connected to the thermostatic switch, but the themostatic switch is missing. can't find one on ebay either.
all problems aside, i love riding my bike and can't wait to pass my test and upgrade to a better bike and take the missus out :-)
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:-) i've added fedek to my favourites, once kids have christmas presents i'll try get an exhaust. I like the slash cut one, but no baffle :-(
and NRP carbs is also saved, i'll try make a visit there soon...
i knew forums must have some uses, thank you everyone
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Oh yeah, with the bigger sprocket on, it'll go to 20 in 1st, but with the surge of power it sometimes gets it'll go to 30 before I changed gear as the bike screams it's lungs out. I may try new exhaust, but websites don't generally list the sr125 as a compatible model. I'll keep looking and tinkering with the screws on the Carb :-)
I did just see a picture of someone's sr125 with a pit bike exhaust on it, on the pit bike forum. how would i go about fitting an end can to the downpipes that are on a stock sr125, with the stock silencer welded to the pipes?
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It does it at random times, but I have noticed if I hold onto the revs in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, it does run quicker... I do short shift a lot though, since putting the new rings in i don't want to rev too much for a while. I've gone about 90 miles since fitting them, not sure how long they need to be ran in for...
Its already got no rear footpegs, original exhaust, and I weigh 10.5 stone. Don't know how to rejet carbs, was looking at alternative ones on eBay last night though. Will any Carb work since there's no connection to Electrics the bike wouldn't know the difference...
Was also thinking of part exxing for a ybr instead, now that it's running...
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Quick update...
I replaced gaskets, fitted new piston and new rings (even though I snapped my first set so had to order another piston kit) and bought a battery charger, now the bike runs :-)
I did fit a bigger front sprocket (16 teeth) but at the moment it still tops out at 50ish with an occasional surge of power on a steady throttle. Mysterious. I did fiddle with the screws on the Carb when the engine was in pieces, so hopefully a bit more fiddling will get it running good again :-)
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Cheers :-) I'll get a compression tester over next couple of days, what psi am I looking for with normal working engine?
Any help is much appreciated, going to borrow Haynes manual too...
Dave
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does anyone know if it could be a blown gasket that won't make my bike start? everything else seems ok, but a mate said that's what it could be...
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was riding home at the maximum my bike can usually mangae, 50mph, on A roads from preston, the bike suddenly lost power, stayed at 40mph for about 5 minutes then just lost power and died. coasted to a stop. the cylinder head was smoking a bit... spent about 5-10 minutes trying to start it, check fuel, bump start it, etc... it started on a bump start, then managed another few miles then died again when i got on the B roads (slowed to 30mph this time, no matter what gear)... i had to push it until a guy (called Paul on an '09 R1) came to my assistance and took me pillion home.
picked the bike up today, checked the spark (against cylinder head, it sparked), checked fuel, topped up oil (throught the glass, couldn't see any, even though i put a litre in 4 days ago), and took the carb apart (never done so before, but there was no deposits in it or slimy fuel) and reassembled, but still won't start.
the piston is turning, the valves are moving, fuel is going in, don't understand what it could be...
could the head gasket have anything to do with it? there is a slow oil leak from the sump (rounded off nut on it, so a bit difficult for me to replace at the minute) and someone in work told me the head gasket may have a slight leak.
i need this bike to get to work and have no other means of transport or much money to fix any problems until pay day on the 28th (which may not be much if i can't get to work)
David, Skelmersdale, Lancashire
it worked, and i rode to the bike shop for a new indicator bulb, now i just need to build the confidence up on the slippy-looking corners again...
sr125 fuse
in The Bar
Posted
Hi, i was wondering if anyone knows what amp fuse a 1995 sr125 needs? I've got a manual, but it's for 97-03, and that says 20amps. The fuse I've got in mine is 15amps. What difference would this make?
Also, the manual says there should be a thermo switch located next to the battery, but all I've got on mine is an empty plug with no switch.
Cheers, Dave