Kelum
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Posts posted by Kelum
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Hi guys,
My virago starts fine, rides fine but as you ride suddenly engine stops as if fuel cut off. When you open the petrol tank lid and closes again, it starts fine. At this point as it starts there is a loud putt sound like silencers blowing.
Since lid opening resolves the issue right away, I think lid vent is blocked so that air doesnt go in. There were heavy rains lately and bike was ridden in rains about a month so I think lid is rusty inside?
What makes the big blow in silencers?
I think this is not sediment issue in engine's gas feeding system since the problem goes right away after opening lid.
Thanks guys..
And I made a mod in the rear sprocket lately, I replaced the standard teeth sprocket with a smaller sprocket and the bike runs very fast now. Thought you guys will give a try.
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Guys guys...this set up still working beautifully...after the install none of the bulbs had to be replaced...amazing!
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I need to get revenue certificate for the bike...You need to produce emissions report for that...I want to figure out the right setting for pilot screw which minimizes bad emissions...please help...
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Hi Guys,
This guy in the video telling that viragos have a problem and he takes the idle jet out and increase the hole size...Is this related to starting? Can someone explain more...What he says isnt clear...for you native English guys, am sure, it is obvious..
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Kelum. If i. Remember correctly. The pilot screws should go like this.
Turn all the way off then turn two and a half on.
See how that goes mate and report back.
Errr...if I turn all the way in what would happen? would it cut off fuel n air totally? What happens if I turn it all the way out? Or turning in all the way cuts off one component and increases another?? I want to understand this Noise...I have seen people say engine is rich now and lean now...could you come up with more explanatory thing pls...?
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Is the front plug wet with petrol? Have you tested the front plug for a spark?
Yes seems to be petrol....right after the miss I checked for spark and it didnt give any, then I put another plug ( I carry several plugs with me ) and it gave spark...then she started...
But this seems to happen so often...I think I have screwed up the mixture screw...or the chambers getting too much petrol??
I replaced piston rings with new ones about an year ago..
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Guys, my bike has misses or no-firing at all at the front cylinder...rear cylinder ok...
Earlier the plugs were white. But now there are carbon deposits and the thin film on it when misses or no firing occur seems to be petrol or oil..Once you clean the plug you could ride it again...but not for long...
There is no heavy carbon build up..
I once tried to adjust air-gas mixture screw and seems am sending more gas and less fuel into the combustion chamber and once the plug gets wet, the bike misses...
Can someone tell me what the ideal setting is...? pls I get confused with 1/8th kinda turning stuff...may be explain the right way in some other way...?
That is fouling right...I had this issue before when I turned the screw all the way in and started.. plugs got wet and same missfire took place...current setting is more towards outside...
This carb bike having is the one from other bike ( I swapped them )..may be putting back its own would heal her?
Anyone pls?
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Guys, my bike has misses or no-firing at all at the front cylinder...rear cylinder ok...
Earlier the plugs were white. But now there are carbon deposits and the thin film on it when misses or no firing occur seems to be petrol or oil..Once you clean the plug you could ride it again...but not for long...
There is no heavy carbon build up..
I once tried to adjust air-gas mixture screw and seems am sending more gas and less fuel into the combustion chamber and once the plug gets wet, the bike misses...
Can someone tell me what the ideal setting is...? pls I get confused with 1/8th kinda turning stuff...may be explain the right way in some other way...?
That is fouling right...I had this issue before when I turned the screw all the way in and started.. plugs got wet and same missfire took place...current setting is more towards outside...
This carb bike having is the one from other bike ( I swapped them )..may be putting back its own would heal her?
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Why don't you just run the pipe through a bottle with a "Y" connector oil stays in bottle and air goes to filter?
Good idea, thanks!
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Breather connects onto spigot on the airbox
Read the manual, on its way to you
Thanks Ray...spigot is the word?
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Sponge filters are normally slightly oiled from what I've seen, could it be just 'old' and needing a replacement?
Nope, new one...after few rides, the sponge gets decayed as the material dissolves in oil....are there paper or metal filters that last long?
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Having the oil vapour fed back into the engine to be burned is obviously the more ecologically friendly way, this is the case of all bikes in Europe
Do all your bikes have that? What about the sponge deterioration thing in air cleaner of xv125? As you can see, in this bike part of the vapor goes into the air cleaner...are there oil-resistant sponges / air filters?
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Hi guys,
In two of my XV125s, the crank case breather pipe connects directly to the frame next to the carb.
Lately I bought another xv125 that had caught fire burning all the wires, relays, CDI unit, battery box under the seat. In this particular bike, the breather pipe does not connect to the frame, it goes under the engine and connects to the small hole of the air cleaner...
Other two bikes does not have this setup.
I have noticed that the breather pipe emits oil vapor, which goes into the air cleaner and kills the sponge there...the sponge is soaked in oil and you cannot touch it for cleaning...it's brittle..
And oil vapor that goes into carb seems to kill the lubrication of the membrane piston, occasionally while riding when I accelerate, I feel it doesnt happen right away...and the same issue makes bike hard to start sometimes...the piston isnt moving to deliver fuel...this vary issue goes away every time I open the carb from membrane side, take out the piston and clean it and piston bore...
When the bike tells me its hard for her to accelerate, I know its time for a clean up...
In many Indian and Japanese bikes here, I have seen this breather pipe doesnt connect to anywhere, it just hangs down...is this ok?
Further, the right air cleaner does have some small hole for a pipe...connecting breather pipe to this is the original setup?
Thnx in advance!
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Just checked a XV125 owners manual, they definitely have both side stand and clutch switches in the ignition circuit, as does the XV250
Symptoms sound similar to the problem I had recently on my Radian, cut out on me 4 times riding home from work, re-started every time agian on the button, found the clutch switch faulty
Check the clutch switch out agian kelum, if its been removed, find out how/where its been bypassed
Ok lemme check...btw, do you have an xv125 manual?
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Ok klume so the bike could sit and idle all day and not have the problem and it only happens when you ride the bike?
Thinking back your bike should have a clutch saftey switch any road bike built after say 1980 has one someone has removed it.
Yes only when I ride.
yes , someone has removed it...the whole left hand side switch set, clutch leaver have been replaced with a one that doesnt have room for a clutch switch..
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Dt,
So the bike wont Idle at all? / it idles, but on and off when this cut off happens, if its with low speed, it stops..
or just after riding for how long_________? /// after 1-2 km run
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Yep, it sounds to me like the whole bike is shutting off, damn difficult to ascertain the facts though
Environments completely different in Sri Lanka too
Not whole bike...only the sparks go off...I can crank and turn on lights right after the cut off...only the sparks go off so engine stops..if it were a carb issue, it wont fix immediately after the cut off??
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And DT, I told you last time in a thread, this same bike wasnt starting...It was because the membranes piston ( carb ) wasnt moving so gas is not propelled to the cylinders...it was stuck....I cleaned the carb bore and piston and replaced the coil with the right tension...Then it started...
Challenges like these make you a genius!
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Got to agree with NSD sounds like the clutch saftey is faulty ( the small switch under the lever),try disconecting it if its a normaly open switch,if normaly closed then jump the wires together.
If your not sure wether its normaly open or closed then un plug it if the bike starts then it normaly open, if it wont start then jump the wires together.
Naver Say Die and DT...,
This bike doesnt have the clutch lever switch...My other two bike do have...in both of them, the switch must be closed to start..
You didnt get my idea when I said when I squeeze the clutch, bike starts again...
When the engine goes dead like that, if I wouldnt squeeze the clutch, the bike slowers and stops, so I need to start it again by cranking, to avoid this from happening as I ride, whenever engine loses power, I squeeze the clutch and release it so the engine starts again, just like a bump start...But the problem worsens when you are in the traffic jam...in order to avoid stop, you need to rev high while squeezing clutch...if you keep it idle, it surely stops...
So, I'm pretty sure this aint clutch-related..
Further I checked the wires from pickup to see if they short-circuited with crank or stator coil wires or the neutral switch wires...thinking may be at some point the pickup pulse stops so the CDI stops signalling to ignition coils..
......
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Hey Klume see your back with another weird problem. I cant belive someone here dosent have a manual to look up the specs for the pick up coil
Just to recap all you have done
You now have proper rings in the motor and thats all sorted right?
You have the new carb boots sealed up ,gaskets fit properly?
Your 3 wheeler voltage regulator is still holding 14v steady?
Your battery is in good working order?
When you swaped coils you also swaped the spark plug boots or did you use the same old ones?
So if yes to all of the above,then lets start with the simple things. So we can all get a real understanding of what is happening
How long did the bike run right before this started?
How long does the bike run right before this problem starts?
Is the rotor and pick up tight? possibly have come loose ?
Have you tried to remove the gas cap and drive it/start it when it has the problem?
How long does the bike have to cool down before you can drive it again?
As for the resistance value of the pick up coil sorry cant help,but if you test your other bike they should be close in ohms value, as you have allready changed everything else related to spark why not swap the pick up and see if it fixes the problem.
Or as you have removed coils from a running well bike test that bike and compare when both bikes are warmed up/hot
Hi DT,
How long did the bike run right before this started? /// This bike developed this prob very long ago...It had this cut / kinda knock since the day I bought it first...Never caused an issue though...I rode it for almost an year, daily until the engine ceased due to oil wheel wear..
How long does the bike run right before this problem starts? /// few kilometers..when it gets warm, the issue gets prominent ...
Is the rotor and pick up tight? possibly have come loose ? /// impossible though I havent checked...mech was a professional...
Have you tried to remove the gas cap and drive it/start it when it has the problem? /// opening or closing it doesnt help...I cleared the gas cap vent...Picture it right please...as you ride bike suddenly goes off, both cylinders...and if I squeeze the clutch and release, it starts again as if there wasnt any issue...even when it stops, when I crank it in next minute, it starts ...
How long does the bike have to cool down before you can drive it again? /// cooling or heating of engine dont affect the starting...as the engine gets hot the problem appears often. but when I start even when hot, it starts right away...
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You now have proper rings in the motor and thats all sorted right?
You have the new carb boots sealed up ,gaskets fit properly?
Your 3 wheeler voltage regulator is still holding 14v steady?
Your battery is in good working order?
When you swaped coils you also swaped the spark plug boots or did you use the same old ones?
Yes to all above!
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I still didnt get to the point I should swap the pick up and see...
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is it one or bothcylinders?
Both! Bike goes off..all of the sudden...and catches again...
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Could be a restriction in the tank venting system. XVS bikes don't vent at the cap but have a tube running down the frame. If this gets bent, squashed etc it can cause similar symptoms to what you you describe. Don't know how the Virago is setup.
Tank lid was cleaned...if it is the case, you cant get the bike to start right away right? I mean right after it goes dead?
I hear the miss sound in cylinder..
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The coils" were they new ? my bets on them,,
Yes, I have 3 viragos, tried coils from a smmothely running bike...
Virago xv125, bike stops and starts after gas lid opened once
in Yamaha Customs
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Thanks Stupid Boy...