jattie
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Posts posted by jattie
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The idle screw is normally a big one on the side of the carb. In most cases the come out on a user friendly extension cable.
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Pipes are normally in three section, the downpipes off the heads, into a second section up to the cans. If you have completely diffirent cans you normally have to get the connection bits to the downpipes as well.
i not sure how to fit a beowulf can to my bike because off the exup on the standard one been told to disconnect the pipes at either end can sumone help with this problem please
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Sorry, there's no easy way out, it's a big job, takes about 6 hours to fit, if done properly. Strip off a lot of stuff, connect the wires in so the dont corrode over time and tape it back up so it's hack proof.
Most yamahas have the same wiring colour coding, look at the areas where the indicator wires are exposed, normally yelow and brown I think.
Hi, new to forum, and as i have a yamaha i thought i would give it a go.
I have owned many bikes in the past, mostly yamaha's, but now me and the missus are starting a family, and i was not allowed to get another big bike but she gave in and let me have a scooter (cheap, less chance of me killing myself, etc etc).
I finally found a nice clean tidy example Majesty 250 S reg for £700, goes like stink (not like my R1 used to) and she likes going on the back for a change!!
Ok, finally down to my question.
I am a bit of a gadget freak and a letter dropped on my door step from the old bill, stating that a lot of scooters below 400cc are high risk items being stolen on our estate, they recommend keeping it in a garage when not using it, (which i do) but fit an alarm!!
Well i brought one for £30 off ebay, a Cyclone V2 talking one ( i know sad!!! ) it said on the website to tell them what bike it was so they could send a specific wiring diagram, which i got but was quite frankly, crap!!
I need to find all the indicator wires to connect to so the they flash, and also a good mounting point for the alarm, i have looked at the fairing and it looks a scary propostion trying to get it off!!!!
Anyone's help appreciated!!
Andy
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They're said to be able to to a top speed of 55mph.
A timiong chaion tensioner is a spring loaded device with a ratchet mechanism that prevents it from being pushed back at all. or at least it should. It's normally held i place by two smaller bolts on the sides and a bugger cenrtral plug that can be opened and the springs taken out. Take out out and see if the ratchet mechanism is working as it should and make sure it locks properly when pushed out.
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From what you describe I would be inclined to agree, sound like fuel starvation. Soemthing is stopping the fuel from getting to the combusion chamber.
Close off the the tank fuel tap and open the drain valve on the bottom of the carbs, you might be lucky and flush it out. Repeat a couple of times. If that fails you might have to remove and clean the carbs.
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I've had this kind of bahaviour before when a crakcase seal was intermittently allowing air into the casing below affecting the air faul mixture ration.
Hi, firstly i must say i`m a bit of a bike novice so apologies if i sound a little thick! I have recently done my CBT and bought a YBR 125, it`s an 08 model and has very low mileage, and has been recently serviced.
I had been using it every day for a couple of weeks now, with no problem at all. However two days ago i noticed it started to stall when sat idle. This has since developed into the bike stalling pretty much all the time, even when i`m in motion and giving it throttle, to the point that i can not use it at the moment. It sometimes will not even start and just turns over, then when it eventually fires up it will tick over for a small time before starting to struggle and hunting before cutting out. It seems o.k at speed, but will struggle at low, or no speed. I have checked the plug and it`s fine and sparking o.k. The air filter is all clear and seems fine too. I have unplugged and re-connected the various sensors relating to the fuel injection system too. I`m struggling to work out what the problem could be......
Has anyone got any ideas as to what the problem may be?
Also, how much do you think i`d be looking at to get it booked in to be looked at at a Yamaha dealer? If i even need to, it may be something small that i could sort myself.
I also noticed the exhaust has a small hole on the underneath by the footpeg, i may be stupid, but this is not the problem is it? It looks machine drilled like it`s supposed to be there?
Help!!
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on the topic of reducing the tooth ratio of the front sprocket, how much of a reduced top end would we be roughly talking? also what difference would adjusting the rear sprocket do?
Adjusting the front sproket is easier if you want to play around with rations since one tooth in font does not affect the chain length and adjustment potential to keep it tight enough, otherwise you have to remove some chain links.
The net effect would be a function of the ratio from front to back, for example say you have a 48 tooth sproket at the back and a 14 in front so a ratio of 14:48 i.e. 3.4285. So adjusting one tooth in front smaller you will get 3.6923, that is a reduction of almost 8%. (3.6923-3.4285/3.4285*100)
You will get roughly the same effect by adding 3 teeth at the back, so the top speed will decrease by roughly 8% and the torque/excelleration that you experience by roughly the same amounts.
a new silenced dep exhaust is on the list for definite
what sort of engine modifications are there that can be done either by myself or done without having to sell a kidney?
1. You get high performace reed valves (Boyesen - Fibreglass type) with a shorter lifespan, but increase in engine RPM and overall performance. They can resonate at higher frequencies.
2. Gafflowing in inlet ports, basically polishing the fuel inlets and widening them and widening the holes in the pistons that flows fuel trough the crancase. Make sure the crank case seals are leaktight and does'nt effect the fuel mixtures.
3. Use the Iridium type spark plugs and multispark types.
4. Increase the combustion presure by reducing the combustion chamber size. (skim the head - see below)
5. Build or buy a custom exhaust.
On these bikes every little increase adds up to the overall performance, keep in mind that all these changes also leads to a reduction in engine life and fuel consumption.
Annnd finally you mentioned skimming the heads? ive heard this mentioned before but im unsure as to what this entails?
Skimming the head basically means reducing the cumbusion chamber size. The cyclinder head normally have a little ridge and a gasket. You hace to determine how much room is left for the piston to turn around on the top at speed and take away some of the spare capacity. An easy experiment is the remove the aluminium gasket. A millimeter of part of that make a huge diffirence. Be aware thou that the engine runs hotter and you can burn holes is the pistons if the fuel mixture is to lean.
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With the piston on top on compression stroke i.e. valves closed the cam lobes should point outwards and the marks on the cam sprokets should align with the cam casing sides.
when doing a valve clearance on my yam sr 125 i done as the manual said and lined the [T] mark on the rotor rim to the arrow on the crankcase. the valves were closed tight so set them to the manual setting.started it up and they rattled like fu k.tried again,this time testing piston was at tdc by putting a plastic tie in the spark plug hole.now a mark on the cam chain sprocket seemed to line up with another but the [T] mark was way off.valves were way too lose so set them again this time its ok.is my timing off.the bike is back to the same as it was[dies if you give it throttle].
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Conor,
You are right, if top speed is not a factor, changing sprocket ration will creates an improvement in acceleration, but reduce the tope end. The easiest way is to change the front sprocket. They normally come in 13 14 and 15 toth options and bikes normally come out with a 14. Going down to a 13 will increase acceleration. There's also a 12 oth, but very scarce.
There's lots of ways to improve the engine performance if you want to work on the engine. The exhaust makes a huge diffirence and the standard ones are very restrictive. A performance pipe will make a huge diffirence.
If you dont want to spend lots of money, you can increase the compresionby skimmimng the heads.
Hey all, basically ive got a DTR125 02. the bikes had all the lighting ignition barrel speedo etc stripped off it all it has is a killswitch. im basically looking for ways to improve the acceleration and performance but im not worried about top speed as im using it for enduro/hare'n'hounds so im not likely to get the bike above 60 mph can anyone suggest ways and methods to help me out? ive heard about changing the sprockets to a different tooth setting any thoughts?
cheers
Conner
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Do you actually mean YD 250 or YZ 250.
A CDI Unit is pretty much manufacturer dependant and very bike specific. The ignition timing is dependant on a magnetic pickup on the flywheel and an RC (Resistror and Capacitor) circuit changing the firing angle at varying RMP's. YD's (as far as I know) still runs of points and aYZ would run off a CDI unit. I've cross fitted some CDI units over the years, but you have to consider bike types, i.e. two stroke vs four strokes and the rpm's the engines run at.
I would suggest getting a similar type CDI, IT 250 ar raptor 250, if it's a YD with a CDI retorfitted, you might be able to adjust the firing angle adjusting the points with a timing light.
i bought a yamaha yd 250cc bike,i m new for the this bike,but previous owner changed the cdi unit,black box.
bike start is serious problem,it allways backfires and engine going to highly heat.cant slow engine allways trying to stop and cant going fast.most people says yd 250 engine like sr 250 engine.is it a true? what is the suitable cdi unit for yd 250?previous owner changed cdi unit now it has yamaha mate 50 cdi unit.pls give me your answers.
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I've a 1997 TDM with around 58k miles on the clock. It's regularly serviced and used for my daily commute for the past 3 years. A couple of days ago coming from work off the motorway I heard a strange knocking sound that seems to be related to speed and power applied, when you pull the clutch in she goes all quiet.
I drove the last mile slowly home and put the bike up on the paddock stand. I noticed that there was a massive wobble in the drive chain especially in top gear at idle speed. I took the chain off and noticed that the knocking sound remains as soon as I put the bike in gear and especially in a higher gear.
So over the past two days I stripped the heads down and was sure I am going to see a timing chain or big end issue and to my surprise they are all 100%. I am now totally stumped. I do not see any bearing issues on the flywheel, so short of dropping the engine and stripping the gearbox, any other ideas before I go down that road?
Any ideas, suggestions and experience will be much appreciated.
Thanks
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Is there anyone with info on checking my TDM Valve timing? The Manual I have (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/6248918/service_tdm_96.pdf) does not cover this.
TDM Engine Knock
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
Comeon guys, someone must have some experience on this!