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saltcreekknife

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Posts posted by saltcreekknife

  1. If ya have cleaned up the carb, now put the throtle stop screw and the air mixture screw to there factory settings. This will help starting and from there ya can set them to whatever they need to be at for the engine to run nice and smoth.

    If your choke isnt doing anything then it will be hard to start from cold. Shouldnt wet the plug like your saying if the choke is not working. So it could be the float height that is set wrong and this will send to much fuel in and wet the plug. ( i dont know what height your float should be at ).

    I will check the float bowl height and let you know.

    Thanks

  2. Will try cleaning hole. I am at my wits end! It will not start up when cold. I have been out of town for a week, and when I tried to start her up, no luck. It is the same as before. If I take out the spark plug it is soaked with gas. I dry it off, put it back in, and she cranks right up. I am not giving any throttle when I first start. Any thoughts or clues as to what might cause this? Could it be the float? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    I will try cleaning out the choke hole. And I have put an o ring on air screw.

    Thank you

  3. Hi Team

    I have just pulled down the xs motor and wish to know if the markings under the skert mean anything (3 & 4 ) are this size if so do we know the size needs bore done so looking at size ? any help would be good

    Cheers Chris

    I just put a new piston in my dt175. There were no markings relating to size on piston I took out. I had to measure with a caliper. Once you have the size you can look up if it is standard, oversize, etc. If you have a shop in mind that is doing the re-bore, they would probably measure for you if you do not have caliper.

    Good luck.

  4. Thanks for bearing with me as I get my bike "tuned". I am having a problem when first starting the bike for the day. It doesn't want to start. It might take 10, 15, 20 kicks to get it going. Once going, it starts on the first kick. Compression is good, great spark, and fuel. If I stop and take out the plug and then put it back in, it starts right up. Am I flooding it somehow? I am using a 2 stroke oil by maxima called "super m." It is for oil injected bikes. Could this cause a problem?

    When I first start it up I turn on the gas, pull out the choke, and kick the kick start. I open the throttle as I do this. Is this the correct procedure? And does the removal of spark plug give any hints? This is my first DT.

    Thanks

  5. Adjust the throttle stop screw to achieve an idle. Note the position of the air mixture screw and turn it clockwise until it gently seats, it should be around 1 and 1/2 turns out from this position, Now...did moving the mixture screw affect the engine speed at all, it should really get a bit lumpy as you screw this in.

    Edit: In another thread you said the 'o' ring was missing from the mixture screw...so did you replace it? you didnt say!

    Will try your suggestions. I did put an o-ring on the mixture screw. Will let you know what happens. As far as the choke goes, it does not seem to do much. It is the plunger type, and there does not seem to be any replacement parts available. Everything looked OK however when I rebuilt the carb.

    Thanks

  6. My DT175 has a hard time staying at a constant idle. I checked to see if the cable was caught anywhere. It doesn't change when I move the bars back and forth. The throttle slide has a indention where it hits the throttle adjuster. Could this be causing the problem?

    Also it takes a looong time to warm up. It dies at idle until it is good and warmed up. No problem starting. Is this common with the dt175?

    Thanks

  7. Not sure if this helps, but I was having some similar problems with my dt175. The headlight, then the turn signals, nothing seemed to work then sometimes they would. You probably have a similar product over there, but I got a can of electrical contact cleaner and took apart all the switches. The switches on both sides were heavily coroded. After some spraying and light cleaning with a wire brush/fine sandpaper all the problems went away.

    Good luck.

  8. I just finished getting an 81 DT175 running. After it sat overnight, I noticed a little gas running out of the carb's overflow tube. (a 1" drip area on the floor, not much) I replaced the floatbowl needle. Could it be a faulty needle or do I need to check the floatbowl level?

    Also, how do you clean the white plastic fenders. They are stained, and I do not want to damage the surface. Any thoughts?

    Thanks

  9. Not sure if this helps, but if you have the old seat (even if it is completely tore to pieces) there is a place that will recover and renovate any seat for around $100. If you are interested, let me know, and I will dig up the website. They are in the States.

  10. Not sure where you are at, but I have the same year bike. I got a Clymer manual at Amazon.com for about $15.00. You can Google DT175 manual and some free sites come up. I like having a paper copy I can get oil stains on :) . The folks here are great. Also look at old posts to find lots of good info.

    -good luck

  11. Cylinder / cylinder head removal, and crank seals can be done with engine in frame, are you only going to change the left crank seal

    I thought the left hand seal might be leaking, but on closer inspection it looks like oil is leaking out of the kick starter shaft. I ordered a complete engine gasket/seal kit, so I am probably going to go ahead and replace the left side seal also. I would like to get the bike started first, so I plan on replacing the right seal, pulling the head, and re-building the carb. to begin with. Once the bike is running, and I have the kick start seal replaced, I will check the left crank seal.

    I am curious to see why there is no compression. Once I have the head off I will let everyone know what is going on.

    By the way, you can get flywheels pullers on Amazon.com for about $12.00 us dollars.

    Thanks again, (let me know if my plan on this makes sense)

    -Karl

  12. It would have to be a hell of a seal leak to cause no compression, take the head off and see if the piston is holed for some reason

    Thanks for the info. I just ordered the needed parts. Would it be easier to leave the engine in the bike or remove it for this type of work?

    I will keep you updated on how it goes.

  13. Hi, yes it seems you may have an oil leak trough the crank seal. Get it running and see if it is also an air leak through the seal.

    Can be changed with engine in frame , you wil need a flywheel puller and something to get hold of the flywheel (without damaging it) so you can undo the nut holding it on.

    ...Paul

    I thought that might be the case... I also suspect I have a leak on the other side as oil is leaking out of the other crankcase cover. The bike will not start, so I bought a compression tester, and it has no compression. The guy I boight it from said it was running fine then just stopped. The odometer shows 1200 miles, and it looks to be in great shape. Would the oil seals cause this? It does not seem like it would. I have ordered a manual to get started, but it looks like I am going to need to do a top end re-build. Is this hard? I do not mind learning. I am enjoying tinkering with the bike.

    Any thoughts?

    Also, where do I find a fly wheel puller?

    By the way, I live in Decatur, Ga. USA. And my wife and I have some land in Alabama. There are about 500+ miles of dirt roads in the Talladega National Forest which I plan to explore once I get the bike running.

    Thanks again for your help.

  14. Hello folks, New to this site. I just got a 1980 DT175. It doesn't run, but the odometer says it only has 1200 miles on it. Seems to be in good shape. I am just cleaning it up right now and tinkering. I took the cover off the magneto side and there was about 8 or 9 tablespoons of oil that came out. I don't think this one has points, so I am not sure this is normal. Do I have an oil leak through the seal or is this normal?

    Thank you in advance.

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