growler
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Posts posted by growler
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hi mate, is it possible that your tappets are too tight? this will give bad running.
when i bought mine it had had a so called service but it run as rough as a bears ar*e the tappets had been overtightened and the warmer it got the worse it got.
i set them at the correct settings and it has run great ever since.
i guess the diaphrams are o.k? and the fuel is fresh.
keep trying mate it will be well worth it when the bike is running right.
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hi chaps, is it possible to take the lower tank fuel tap off without removing the tank?
the reserve is not working,also the tap when it is turned to off it doesn't stop the fuel flow,
thought i may as well have a go before i put all my new painted bits back on.
thanks.
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hi chaps,
does anyone know what other petrol cap will fit the 1992 xv535 virago?
over the winter i've been changing the colour from blue to maroon its turned out quite well,the petrol cap was starting to flake so i sent it to a mate of mine to be plated,i posted it first class last thursday,and its gone missing in the post.
so it looks as if i will have to buy one from somewhere if it doesn't turn up.
had a look on ebay but nothing for a xv 535, will the cap off the bigger or smaller virago fit? it may give me a better chance of finding one.
cheers.
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I've tried autosol metal polish,wire brush and a very fine sand paper but the rear wheel there's quite a bit of rust,I thought power wire brush would damage the chrome and the wheel... will have a go and see... , if it doesn't work can always getting them sprayed... thanks for advise
sorry i forgot to mention it,but i think for the spray to stay on, the chrome will have to come off anyway ,as i found out previously.
cheers.
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Moving from the bike colour To my wheels... They need work done on them too rusty to repair so was thinking about spray them too, black same colour of the bike or go White so it stands out???
hi, have you thought about trying to use a power wire brush "black and decker drill" on the wheels with the wheels lifted up for ease,and see if you can get a shine on the base metal and then clear laquer them? i did that once on an old matchless bike and it didn't look too bad.
cheers.
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thinking of doing the same thing myself on my 535, which is going by your avator the same colour as mine.
up to now i think the metallic maroon looks about the best for showing up the chrome.
cheers.
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hi,
wasn't sure about spending out on iridium plugs,but i thought i would give them a go anyway.
i found that it will tick over a lot slower and smoother now, and the throttle response is quicker.
i got mine for a good price on ebay just over £13.00 the pair delivered.
the link to the plugs is below if you are interested.
Item number: 360292971538
cheers alan.
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is the air filter dirty,?
is the choke stuck on,?
alan.
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hi and welcome,
put a zip tie on the frame near the ignition switch and hook your key to it when you go out,at least if the key falls out its still hanging there.
the virago is a great bike only had mine a few months,i wish i would have bought one sooner.
safe riding.
alan.
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I ride a 535 also and I have started to have some carb problems that he dealer can not solve. The engine misses every now and then, and there is a popping sound. We have checked the obvious things, put in new jets, checked the carb for air leaks but still have not solved the problem. In frustration I asked the dealer to track down a set of new carbs. The price of the new carbs was $1500. I am not sure what that is in pounds but it is more than I am prepared to pay.
RM
hi,
just noticed a set of carbs on ebay,but they are over here in the u.k.
he may post over there to you.
item number is 280562650557
good luck.
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The 535 is becoming a classic!
Anyway, yours is almost 20 years only and has only done 8k, so its spent a lot of time sitting not going anywhere, so I'd suspect gum formation (from the fuel) in the carbs. The fact that this happens after its sat for a few days would support this. The fuel pump shouldn't pull a vacuum, but it could be that when you park up after a ride, the heat 'soaks' the carbs and the fuel in them expands, forcing the float hard up, and then it sticks. Or the carb has expanded in the heat, and then cools down, trapping the float...whatever the reason, it shouldn't stick!
Only real remedy is to remove and strip the carbs down and clean them out very thoroughly, even if they look clean now. Gum can be hard to see...it can be a bit like a thin coat of varnish. I know you've cleaned them already, but what did you clean them with? You can buy 'carb cleaner' which should help get rid of gum, but beware that some of these are caustic and even if they're not, they could damage and plastic parts (like the float), gaskets etc.
I'd also clean out the needle valve parts in the same way, although DON'T go poking a pipe cleaner or something into it as you could damage the valve seat. I know you said it was the floats that were sticking, but its likely that the needle valve is also gummed up and could stick as well - same end result. Sometimes there are little rubber seals on the needle valve - this could get damaged by the cleaner also.
The carbs are 20 years old, its really a strip down job, and you should really see if you can get a gasket/refurbish kit for it - you'd like to think that this was something that a Yammie dealer could supply.
Alternatively, have search around locally and see if there are any specialist shops that would service the carbs for you. Don't think I'd trust this to your average dealer...they'd just want to bolt on new ones
Which might actually be worth pricing..out of interest.Have fun!
Jim
hi jim,
what a great reply,plenty to think about there.
i have been reluctant to take the carbs off and strip them yet as the previous owner was using the bike regulary up until i bought it,and it runs smoothly and ticks over like a sewing machine,the only thing i have done to it is give it a good clean and filled it with fuel from a peva garage which could be the problem.
the needle jet you mentioned do have tiny rubber tips but they look good and dont feel soft,i think i will drain the fuel and try to get some nylon type valves i never had any trouble with them on previous bikes,also the heat expansion is worth thinking about as the heat from the engine does keep you warm when you stop for a while after a good ride.
i will keep you informed how i get on with it when i get some new needle jets.
p.s can you recommend a good carb cleaner/addative.
regards,
alan.
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hi all,
first of all i would like to say hello and congrats on a great site.
i am sorry that in my first post i need some help.
i have a 1992 535 that i bought about a month ago,it has only done 8000 miles,but when i leave it standing for a day or two and then go to start it,it usually only fires up on one cylinder either front or back,runs on that cylinder for a few secs then stops.
the plugs and battery are new and when it runs properly it will run all day without missing a beat.
what i have narrowed it down to is that when i turn the ignition on i could only hear the pump tick once then stop,
so i removed the carb float sides and the carbs are empty and the floats are stuck up in the closed position,pull them down and replace the sides and the pump ticks away and fills them,then no problems away it goes.
my main question is does the pump create a vaccuum when it is off making the shut off valves stick on closed,i have taken the float and valves off and cleaned them,they seem to be in good condition.
forgot to mention i have found out that the reason it only fires on one cylinder is because that will be from the carb that still has fuel left in it.
any one else had this problem?
thanks in advance.
xv535 fuel tap
in Yamaha Customs
Posted
just to answer my own question.
you can remove the fuel tap on the xv535 tank,but it is a bit of a tight squeeze.
i removed the seats battery and the tank bolts,then the side piece of the frame including the footrest,and also the front flexi mudguard,so you can move the tank up and sideways bit, then using a short strong phillips driver you can just about get the two screws out "they are mounted upwards under the tank"
also take my word for it, even if you think the bottom tank is empty its not,as i found out when i pulled the tap off, and the fuel goes everywhere except in the container that you have ready.
the reserve part of the tap was seized up as water had been running down the wire and into it as there was no rubber grommet,so freed it all up with wd40 and fitted new tap seals and a grommet and the jobs a goodun.
i will post some picks soon of my paint job i anyone wants to have a look.
cheers.