kindest
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Posts posted by kindest
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I felt the same way at first.. but as you ride more and more you'll find yourself wanting to "clean" it up make it look pristine. at least that is how it went down for me.
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sexy!
does it say speed shit on the side
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hi mate dont know about the negative ground stuff but i know for a fact after reading about fitting leds to my own yam that 10w resistors just wont work they are too low handling you need at least 10ohm 50w and 1 for each turn signal so if your fitting 4 then obviously you'll need 4 resistors and you have to connect them one end of the resistor to the positive wire and the other end of the resistor to the negative wire.hope that makes sense to you mate but have a good google too cos thats how i found out......p s for the record mines do work but not very well only brighter at night and not all the leds work correctly.
good luck
Dave
I was trying one resister with just one led plugged in (regular bulbs in the rest). the resistor turned scorching hot so I'm pretty sure it was doing something. lol
I didn't try 4 resistors all hooked up at the time time tho. but I did have a suspicious I would need a more powerful resistor. back to the drawing board. I;m tempted to try one of those
plug n play new flasher led relays but as drewpy said it may or may not work.
dammit I found the thread. im blind
If I get something to work I'll update that thread. and thanks for the info Dave+Drewpy.
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hate making a new thread for issues brought up before but I couldn't find the thread that all the info to reply to.
anyways I converted my brake lights to led go here to see more about that
and I thought it would be good now to put in led turn signal bulbs. well I ordered the bulbs from http://stores.ebay.com/wardenjp2002
and I knew it wasn't going to be as easy and plugging them and they would work. I got
ttp://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062291#showFullReviews
10 Ohm 10W 5% Wirewound Resistor (2-Pack) and tried wiring them up in line cause I read it would make it work but no luck. bulbs didn't flash at all.
my question is if I replace the stock 3 prong 12v signal clicker with http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-3-prong-12-Volt-LED-Flasher-LED-turn-signals-/330394449081?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ced0b34b9 will it work. it says Flasher has NEGATIVE ground (flasher will NOT work with early 6v POSITIVE ground cars/truck or motorcycles).
not sure if our old bikes fall in this category. thanks
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Hey Guys, Im new to this forum. I posted an intro in the newby section. Just picked up an 82 maxim 400 in pretty decent shape. Needs a few things but otherwise im a pretty happy guy.
The bike came without side covers and a cover for the air filter. The filter is exposed and i was wondering if its critical to have that covered to operate? Im having alot of troubles finding any parts for this bike.
Thanks for any help
Steve
you shouldn't need the side plastic fairings but if the air filter is supposed to be contained in something then it could potentially screw with the airflow causing the bike to not run @ its optimal. Does it look like a pod filter or is it like a stock filter (almost looks more like a paper oil filter).
if the bike runs/idles good and the spark plugs don't appear like they are being abused from either too rich or to lean I would say just ride and enjoy.
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r u sure it's not choked or something.. what rpm idle is it when you first start it up.
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Does the XS 400 actually have a tank breather and where would it be? I have't stumbled across it so far.. :/
I got a fuel filter on the bike, would it have any effect?
i got a fuel filter on mine too no problem. i believe it vents from the gas cap. there should be a rubber seal with a hole in it.
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Hey
As written in the topic description, my XS400 looses enginepower after having driven around 110-120 km/h (around 75mp/h) for 20-30 seconds.
The machine has fine power and runs great until it has run for 30 seconds, then I need to lower the speed of the bike because it looses all it's power.
It feels like the bike isn't igniting in every rpm and therefore loosing power, just a thought, don't know if it's possible
After having let go of the gas and the speed drops til like 80-90 km/h it runs fine again.
Any ideas?
Would be kind of useful to be able to run those speeds on the highway
also see
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looks awesome. good job
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Guys really need some help with 2 problems...
1/ i replaced the petcock on my RXS and stupidly i forgot to put the filter back on.. while out today it broke down and wouldnt even start.. whats the best way to clean the carb out bearing in mind i dont have access to a compressor..
2/ the battery has lost its charge and its brand new... when the bike is running the idiot lights dont get brighter when you rev it and they always used to... could it be a regulator or rectifier problem or maybe something else?
open up the carb and spray the heck out of it with carb cleaner. I might do the same with fuel line too just cause. I added a cheap 99 cent 90 degree fuel filter in between the tank and the carb as a secondary backup... you might consider the same so this problem never happens again. for the battery is it being discharged while you ride and not recharging? it could be the rectifier could be the stator could even be as simple as the ground wire..
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yes im sorry,i mean my cables are black and green their cables are 3 red,black,and black and white. isn't my battery a 12 volts?cause i try all connections and all it does is steady light.it doesn't blink.
I know on my bike if I screw up the light wiring the little relay box that is supposed to make them flash will click like crazy even tho the lights are solid. do you hear that box making any noise?
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didn't realise you had electronic ignition, I think you need to look at the TCI box first. drop speedshop a PM as he can give better advice on these things!
BTW those are plugs and would need to be drilled out and behind there should be screws.
thanks drewpy. sounds like I definitely shouldn't bother drilling out the plug then if I have electronic ignition. The haynes manual I have says that it should be trouble free and I should never have to mess with the TCI system and that "regular timing adjustments aren't needed". so I probably should look elsewhere for my rpm issues.. as I said before the bike runs great just doesn't seem to have any top end speed (this is probably a good thing.. evil knevil jr jr). I'm too the point where its full on riding season here so I don't plan on taking stuff apart full-on and jeopardizing riding time.
but If I figure something out or some1 else runs into the same problem or ideas be sure to post as I will -
ok I'm an idiot I can't even get the stupid cover plate off. it looks like there is a plug instead of a screw?!
do I have to drill it out
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I'm with drewpy- sounds like timing. Mine did almost exactly the same thing and after i re-gapped the points and static timed it, it started running great at just as high an RPM as I dared go. I static timed mine, which, if there is no mechanical problem with the ignition and advance, should be fine. I followed these instructions.
I just found it with a search.
damn looks good and not too hard. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. thanks for the link. add that to the sticky drewpy!
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Thanks, Drewps, yeah, I was thinking along that line, but needed a kick in the butt to get me moving in that direction. I have other bikes that require more immediate attention, but one afternoon I will sit down beside the mighty 400 and become one with the ignition....I'll let you know the results, eventually...add to the community knowledge....
what happened! how did you fix it. found myself having the same problem today screaming up a steep hill in 6th gear. it would not go past 5,000 rpm.
and dammit I found
from this thread that I might have a leak in one of my venturi slides. since my top speed is ~70... which is plenty fast for me but I don't stuff leaking.
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Hi All,
I couldn't quite figure it out whether there is some lubrication for the starter motor/starter motor clutch and how it works.
Have a look here: http://yamxs.joaquim.ch/cariboost_files/1977xs400.pdf
It's not the same model, but still the same place: page B9 part 1&2 which covers things from page A10.
In MY bike there is oil there, since it's dripping from the gasket a bit. Question is - should there be oil? how much? Is it an "oil bath" or? I have ordered a new gasket anyway, but I am not sure whether I should drain the oil first before taking that cover off or it'd be enough to tilt the bike on its right and catch the tiny bit of "leftovers"?
thanks
regards
Oscar
you talking about that?
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from what I read in the past Carb floats are RARELY upset.. that is to say they never need adjustment once set.
I would look elsewhere like Drewpy said
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what carbs does yours use? My 500 has Mikuni carbs, which if my memory is working correctly (often not the case), are CV carbs. My friend's KZ400 has Keihin carbs, and for whatever reason those accepted pod filters with no problems. Mine was suffering from hanging revs, constantly running lean, insanely hard to start, and an inability to idle. Most of these seem to have been fixed with what i've done.
Mikuni BS34 carbs for me.
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i run pods no problem. bike runs great.
went up one size on jets... not sure why your bike refuses them
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another thing to check for once you get it clean is if you spray all around the rubber connecting to the carbs with wd-40 while its running and see if the rpm's spike then
you also know you got an air leak which will make the bike do weird things as well.
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Looking at the picture the petcock is set to prime,which means fuel is gravity feed to the carbs.
isn't this bad to leave on it will flood? i've never used the pri feature on my carb ever.
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I blew out the jets in the carbs. the diaphragm seemed kind of stiff (just a little) and the gaskets were pretty stiff too. I am using an inline filter. Actually, while I was writing this I went out to take a pic of the filter. And it ran on full choke at 1200, when I put it to half choke it dropped to 1000, and once I put it on no choke it dropped to 500-750 then stalled. It was burning oil, but not anymore (that's my fault). Attached is a picture of the filter. It was clean when I put it in (like peach colored).
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
well the petcock isn't switched to on? did you try that. also the fuel filter should have arrow on it to make sure you align it right so the fuel can flow.
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It's nit getting a spark. On the fuse box there is only 3 fuses but room for more should there be fuses in all the slots?is there a way to check the fuse box before replacing it?
confused. does it look like a fuse should be there and fell out? if the main 20amp fuse is missing it won't start. at least that is how it works on my 80 xs400
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definitely sounds like a fuse.
is it getting a spark?
even if the fuse is ok the panel and the wires going to it are really touchie on old bikes I had to replace my whole fuse box.
Dutch XS400 2A2 Caferacer
in Classics
Posted
that is one good looking bike sir