Ebola Monkey

Im confused on testing the rectifier. When I test it according to my service manual it says: Connect Tester + to rectifier +, and Tester - to rectifier U,V,W and should have continuity. My meter shows NOTHING Connect Tester - to rectifier +, and Tester + to rectifier U,V,W and should have DIScontinuity. My meter shows 3.0M ohms roughly on every one. Connect Tester - to rectifier -, and Tester + to rectifier U,V,W and should have continuity. My meter shows NOTHING Connect Tester + to rectifier -, and Tester - to rectifier U,V,W and should have DIScontinuity. My meter shows 3.0M ohms roughly on every one. So my results are the exact opposite right? This is on the Ohms setting on my meter. When I test it out on the diode setting I get: Meter + to Rectifier + Meter - to U,V,W I get NOTHING Meter - to Rectifier + Meter + to U,V,W I get .5V Meter - to Rectifier - Meter + to U,V,W I get NOTHING Meter + to Rectifier - Meter - to U,V,W I get .5v Again, + to + and - to - I get nothing, but + to - and - to + I get .5v across all 3 wires. Am I missing something here, or does this all sound right? I charged up the battery again, and monitored the voltage again. Headlight connected: 12.25v @1200 rpm 12.70v @2000 rpm 13.00v @3000 rpm Headlight disconnected: 12.5v @1200 rpm 13.0v @2000 rpm 13.2v @3000 rpm Basically I can start out with a fresh charge, and push good voltage, but with the lights on, and everything it can't keep up and settles in with the numbers above. Unless it's only a couple minutes after shutdown the starter is useless. It will turn and turn, but won't start. If it's not completely cold it will start on 1 kick.

How do you know that it needs intake/exhause valves and spark plug gaps adjusted?

Well, it just keeps getting worse. I had the battery checked out, and it tested out fine. Like I mentioned it's only a week old. I also got my Yamaha service manual in the mail. It also says that the voltage regulator in mine is the mechanical one, while the reality is it's solid state. So where I'm at right now is: Rectifier seems to test out OK Stator seems to test out OK Field Coil seems to test out OK Battery tests out good Don't know how to test the solid state regulator, but I've tried 2 with the same results. On a freshly charged battery it throws 14+ volts, but every time I shut it down, start again it loses voltage.

This morning: 12.3 Volts @ 11:00 am 11 hours after the last shut down 12.7 @ 1200 rpm 13.6 @ 2000 rpm I worked on the bike for a couple hours today. I wired up new rear signals, and used a trailer adapter as a run/turn/brake adapter. Started it up again, but the starter struggled. Took a good 30 seconds or so. It struggled to get up to 12.5 at idle, and would drop off big time when I hit the brakes, or used signals. I just restarted it, and here's the results: 12.3 Volts 10 minutes after last shut down. 11.9 Volts with key on 12.1 Volts @ 1200 rpm 11.8 Volts @ 1200 rpm with brakes on 12.2 Volts @ 2000 rpm 12.5 Volts @ 3000 rpm I know the blinkers, and brake light would make the headlight dim before. There were no rear blinkers then. Now with the rear running lights/blinkers it's even worse. When one blinks on, the other blinker, and the brake light dim so bad it's hard to tell which signal is on. The headlight also dims bad. The only thing that's more than stock is the rear signals as running lights. The electrical system has to be able to handle the extra draw of those. I won't be able to get the battery tested until tomorrow at the earliest.

Got the new regulator today, and it ohmed out the same as the old. Here's what I got tonight on a freshly charged battery (starting at 7:00pm): 13.6 volts @ 1200 rpm 14.3 volts @ 2000 rpm 13.1 volts @ shut down 12.7 volts @ 12:15am (~3hrs after shut down) I'll post the readings in the morning.

Welcome to hell. I'm in my 30's home owner, just bought an 82 xs400 for my wife. I ride an 04 VStar 1100 myself. What he sprayed was starting fluid. It's mostly ether, and as long as you have some kind of spark, ANYTHING will run. I'm going to give you a HUGE shortcut.... I'm going to give you everything I've found for myself. I've been through the electrical, and fuel delivery system, but won't claim to be am expert on either. Some I've found here, specifically from drewpy, and yamagod. Some, I've found elsewhere on the web. Carb wise (which you need)(most likely jets, fload valve, diaphragms, carb holders): Jets, and such:Mike's XS CV boots (diaphragms): Ebay Pod Filters, carb holders, and much more: Ebay O-Rings (you need them): Here I promise to post more tomorrow, but I'm VERY tired right now. The links I gave you should keep you going for now.

Well, I had never thought to use the REL mode on my meter to test the generator. I read on a 650 forum that you have to take into account the meter lead resistance which is .3 ohms on my meter. This puts all 3 wires from the stator at .7-.8 ohms which is where it should be. Now I'm even more confused.

Thanks for the reply drewpy. I'll take the battery in to get it tested. I really hope that's the problem even though I already lost the receipt (it's only a week old). Like I said, I think the rectifiers might be ok, and I've got another regulator on the way. The previous owner was obviously trying to track down the problem because there were 2 rectifiers on the bike (1 wired, 1 not), the regulator had a piece of tape on the bottom that read "Yamaha 400", and there was an extra starter in the saddlebag. I've got a bad feeling that it's going to be in the generator, and probably the armature. Simply because it should have ohmed out at .65 - .79, and actually ohmed out at 1 - 1.1.

I put a brand new battery in the bike, and I get almost 14V across the battery terminals but then it drops off after a while. If I let it run for a while it flattens out at about 12.7V at idle, and 13V at 3,000 RPM. I'm trying to test everything out, but I'm not sure if I'm Going about it right. I have the xs360-400 PDF Manual which is incorrect on a number of things. Field Coil/Armature Tests I tested the Field Coil/Armature according to the 76-82 xs360-400 manual PDF First test:Resistance between 3 white leads (Armature) Should be 0.72 ohms +/- 10% Results: 1.0 - 1.1 ohms. According to the manual the armature wiring is likely broken, and it must be replaced. Second test:Field Coil Resistance Manual says the leads are Green-Green, actually Green-Black on my bike. Should be 4 ohms +/- 15% Results: 3.4 ohms So it's right at the low end. Regulator Testing The manual I have says "A mechanical voltage regulator is used on all models". This is not true. My bike has a solid state regulator, so I can't test it according to the manual. CMSNL lists the same part number for for the 1978-1982 xs400, but shows a mechanical one on some, and solid state on others. Any information on my actual regulator is long gone. Rectifier Testing I tested the Rectifier with These instructions: http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/electrical_test_images/stator3_test3.jpg First test: Meter Red to Rectifier Red Meter black to Rectifier White (x3) Result:No reading Second test: Meter BLACK to Rectifier Red Meter RED to Rectifier White (x3) Result:.53V - .545V Third test: Meter BLACK to Rectifier BLACK Meter RED to Rectifier White (x3) Result:No reading Fourth test: Meter RED to Rectifier BLACK Meter BLACK to Rectifier White (x3) Result:.53V - .545V I tested 2 rectifiers and both had similar results. The first results are above, and the second was in .51V-.53V range. According to this test, they both fail. Then I tested it as described in the 76-82 xs360-400 manual PDF. I get readings of ~2.4M ohms going one way, and nothing going the other. Does this sound right? Which test should I trust? So where I stand is: The armature is out of spec according to my manual that I can't really trust. The field coil is just barely in spec according to my manual I can't really trust. The Rectifier is out of spec according to a random test I found through this forum. I think the rectifier is good according to my manual I can't trust. My voltage regulator is mechanical according to my manual which I can't trust, while it's solid state in the real world. So I don't know how the heck to test it. I am frustrated beyond belief by this whole situation. I can't find the CORRECT manual online (1975-1984 xs250 - 360 - 400), and honestly don't want to fork over a bunch of money, and wait for a week for a manual that might not be any more help than what I have.

I got all of my parts in from MikesXS, Vintage Connections, and ebay. Electrical: Started on the burned up wiring harness. Replaced every charred wire, and connector. Connected the fuse block off the ebay SECA harness I bought with an 8 pin connector. This way when it breaks (it's brittle) I can buy a new one from MikesXS, and just plug it in. Went to pods so I rearranged most of the wiring so the connectors are all easily access the plugs for almost everything behind the left side cover. Carbs: As mentioned went with pods (Emgo). Went from 135 main to 137.5, and from 42.5 pilot to 45. Replaced the float valve needles with ones from ebay, but had to remove the clip that attaches them to the floats. They wouldn't seat with them on. I'm guessing this isn't normal. Also replaced the float valve o-rings, as well as the pilot mixture screw o-rings (set to 2.5 turns out on both). Cleaned everything else from top to bottom. Also replaced both carb holders, and gaskets. Result: Took it for a ride around the neighborhood. Only got up to about 40, and only rode for about 15 minutes. I don't know what a well tuned xs400 should feel like, but it seemed to pull pretty well. I didn't rev the hell out of it (5k tops probably), but could tell it wants to pull more after about 4k. Toward the end of the ride I noticed that it wasn't dropping to idle right away. It would hold a bit of a rev for a second, then drop. About an hour later I started it up again. That time it wouldn't idle. If I kept revving it, it would run, but if I let it idle it would drop to 800rpms or so, then die. I haven't balanced the carbs yet, but I don't think that's the problem. I didn't get the meter out, but noticed the headlight REALLY lit up when I gave it some gas. I'll have to check that tomorrow. Recap: 1982 XS400SJ (heritage) Pods 137.5 Main 45 Pilot 2.5 turns out on both mixture screws I'm getting to the point where I'm running out of knowledge. I could really use some advice from those of you who know these bikes well.

As the topic states. I'm looking for manuals for my 82 XS400SJ (heritage. I've tried all the links but they are all dead. The only ones I've found are the 34 page XS360-XS400 pdf, and one for the 82 SECA. Any help is appreciated. Thanks In Advance!

Picked up a few diodes per Speedshop's information today. Tested my way through all of the previous owners hackandbashery. Now I have a headlight that works properly (no extra switch, and have hi/lo beams). Also have functioning turn signals. I replaced the Yamaha flasher with a $2.99 unit from autozone. I don't have the self canceling anymore, but honestly I don't even know that the self cancel unit still worked. I also pulled the left side controls apart because I couldn't manually cancel the signals. All 3 wires fell off the turn signal switch. I re soldered those, and lubed everything with some white lithium grease. Now everything actually works. Switch moves freely, and cancels properly. All in all, a productive night. Now I have to wait for my used harness from ebay, and some parts from Mikesxs so I can rebuild the burned harness.

Thanks for the info, and the offer. I'm in the US though. I think I'm going to buy a harness for an 82-83 seca or maxim, and "rebuild" my current harness.

I can't find a harness for the 82 xs400SJ I'm working on, so I'm trying to work on the stock one. I found the remains of a diode, it looks like it may have worn through the heat shrink and shorted out. Hard to tell because there was nothing left but a wire. I need to know what the value of the diode was so I can try to replace it. I've highlighted it on the schematic. I might just order a harness from an 82 Seca or Maxim, and use whatever I can, but I'm not sure yet. This bike apparently had a fire near the carbs at some point, and there are quite a few burnt wires and melted connectors. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks In Advance!

Working on an 82 XS400 Heritage. The wiring harness needs to be replaced. I can't find part numbers on them, and need to know if any other years/models will work on the 82 XS400. I'm going to be running Pods, and will need to rejet. Can I use jets for an 82 XS650, or another bike? This would make getting them much easier as I could order from mikesxs, etc. Same thing on carb rebuild kits. Will the 82 XS650 rebuild kit work on the 82 XS400? I've compared the carb parts on CMSNL.com, and the carbs aren't identical they do share a lot of parts. Thanks In Advance!