HoughMade
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Posts posted by HoughMade
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was trying to avoid having to buy a new petcock as I have 2 spare stock ones. Was trying to avoid using multiple elbows as well but it sounds like the only option I have other then finding a really tiny fuel filter or one that has a built in L. Do the carbs suck the gas or is it all gravity fed. You can't have the line run lower then carbs then back up into them I presume?
Any place locally I can pick up a small L fuel filter.. not sure where to try.
I get what you're saying about using the petcock you have. I only replaced mine because it was leaking anyway, and when I have to replace, I always use a manual. However, since these systems are gravity fed, as long as the carbs are always below the tank (tough for then not to be), the gas will flow even if these is a loop in the fuel line. Even though you have a different petcock, maybe mine will give you an idea or 2. Good luck!
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They are brass. You can see in that pic the brass bolt head on the right side of the petcock. The petcock came with a variety of barbs that screw into the petcock body. That bolt can be removed and a barb put in its place so that the fuel line can be run to either side of the petcock- and the petcock can be used on either side of the bike if there are 2 petcocks.
You can see in the above pic that if I ran the fuel line to the right side of the petcock, the line will run right in front of the choke (my handle is missing, it's the round washer looking things).
I will get a better pic tonight if i can, but here is a link to the petcock I used that shows a couple of different available hose barbs. Using the stock, petcock, there are not the options that there are with this.
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=xs400&category=carb
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I will post a better pic when I get a chance (pics on home computer), but I understand the issue with space to run a filter. I replaced my petcock with a manual one, so I had more options of how to run the fuel line (straight or 90 degree hose barb that can be fitted on the front or back of the petcock). I experimented with different setups and the main problem was leaving clearance to reach the choke. T ended up using a 90 degree hose barb on the front (engine side) of the petcock so that the barb faces straight down. The fuel line then runs to the filter, and from the filter to the carb with kind of a large loop of fuel line dropping below the choke handle.
The pic only shows the setup at the petcock, but I will get a fuller pic soon.
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The XS650 engine is not simply an XS 400 bored out- that, I am certain of. If you look at them side, by side, there are many differences.
That being said, many years of XS 650s used the same Mikuni BS34 carbs that XS 400s used for years, though the jetting was different. I believe the engine internals are quite different, but external systems have a lot of overlap.
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Pardon me for asking what may a dumb question, but how do you know it's not charging? As mentioned above, if the battery is bad, the bike could be doing its part, but the battery just will not hold a charge. Does the bike die? Does is start correctly? How many volts does it put out at idle and higher rpm? Is the headlight the stock wattage or a newer, higher watt replacement?
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No other suggestions from me. Sounds like the battery. Charge it, then give it a shot. My bet is that if the battery will take a charge, it'll crank right over once it is charged.
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Sounds lean. Lean=hot and can also cause hesitation.
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I did my valves yesterday and they are quieter, but I still know they are there- and that's just fine. I set mine right in the middle of the spec.
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If you find a source, please share it. I would like some plain "XS400" side cover badges- also in gold.
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When the engine hangs at a higher RPM and will not come down immediately, the mixture is too LEAN, NOT too rich. 2.5 turns out is not enough. Go to 3.5 and adjust slightly up or down from there based on the plugs or a Colortune.
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Any 7/8th" handlebars will fit....but I like my upright seating position...and I'm too old to try to look cool...wouldn't work for me anyway, I'd look like some 39 year old trying to look cool.
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I certainly will not disagree with you. Stock setting were for the purpose of meeting the government's emissions standards, NOT for the purpose of having the bike run well.
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Get the mixture right (mine are between 3 and 3.5 turns out), then just set the idle speed. Also, it would not hurt to balance the carbs (and after that, set the idle speed).
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Ah. I was looking for an unused hole somewhere on the carburetor. Thanks. I suppose the air rushing into the engine from the carburetor creates a vacuum which activates the petcock.
Thanks,
Adam
Correct. Make sure whichever one you are not using is capped.
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A motorcycle should not use more oil, but they need the oil changed more regularly. Personally, i check my oil no less than once a week, but mine is an older bike. Perhaps the people who serviced it did not get the right amount of oil in- and always use motorcycle oil or designed for heavy duty diesel engines- do not use auto oil. Your clutch runs in the engine oil and auto oil has friction modifiers that are not good for the clutch.
Lucky you and more good luck to you!
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Where would I attach it?
On the left carb holder- the same port used to balance the carbs...or the right, doesn't matter- whichever one the tube reaches to easier.
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They told you the VIN was invalid because it is not what is now a standard- a 17 digit VIN. You need a person for this.
I have Allstate. At my age and with my record, and for above standard liability and med pay (but no collision), the rate was $106, but because I have 2 real estate policies and multiple cars and a 20+ year history with Allstate, I got it discounted down to $75...but I went through my local agent.
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The answer to your question is: "no, I have not." However on vehicles of the pre-17 digit VIN era (about 1981 or '82), it is not uncommon for a model to not be in the system. If your title lists the model, show them (or scan and e-mail them) that. I think (though not positive) that the tag on the neck should list the VIN, make and engine size. Maybe a picture of that.
In sum, if you have been dealing with computers, get a hold of a person. If you are dealing with a person, send them the things i noted above.
Good luck!!!
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I have paint on my barrels and have never had a heat issue or a durability issue. I've been riding in 90+ degree weather the last week.
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it was done to show off the powdercoating at aerocoat
...and for that, it works well.
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Sounds like a bad battery. These things will not run if the battery is bad. They need to have a good charge in them. It's possible your battery just needs to be charged, but if that was the battery that was sitting uncharged for any length of time, I'd replace it.
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Clearance specs are .006-.008" for intakes, .008-.009" for exhausts. Adjust them at TDC on power stroke, using the TDC ignition timing marks in the breaker point housing. Adjustment is with a screw and locknut.
It's possible I'm seeing things, but it looks like both the intake and exhaust specs are there to me....
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...and when it did work it was only when the bike was running...
This isn't much help, but one thing I can tell you is that the headlight is only supposed to work when it's running.
Inline Fuel Filter setups
in Classics
Posted
I got the clamps from Ace Hardware- standard spring clamps. I got the fuel line at Ace too- just a couple of bucks. The filter is from Tractor Supply Company, about $4. It is rated for 5hp to 80hp, so I figured it would be fine for under 40hp. I have the exact same filter on my motorized bicycle....and my lawn mower.