armyofda12mnkeys
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Posts posted by armyofda12mnkeys
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Sorry to kill this thread with another question...
But just got the tools to do this adjustment past weekend... so hopefully this is my last question here
...I did the clutch adjustment but it didnt work out well initially.
I unlocked the locknut (clutch adjustment on the engine left side), screwed the screw till i hit resistance and moved it out 1/4th of a turn like manual says... I locked the nut and tried it out...
The neutral light went off went i tried going into 1st or 2nd gear, but didnt actually engage/get out of neutral...
I think I adjusted it a bit more (forget if I did more clockwise or counter), and now it engages the clutch... but only at the very top end of the lever action (like right before the lever is fully out does the bike move)...
1. To get the clutch to engage sooner... does that involve turning the screw further out counterclockwise?
And also the 2 manuals I have differ on what should be going on with the clutch cable adjustment before/after the engine clutch adjustment is going on...
The Clymer doesnt say anything, but the Haynes implies to unlock (turn out) the locknut there all the way out and turn in the cable (so cable will get looser when turning it in) until it fully seats against the left side, and when the engine clutch adjustment is done, to turn it out to finetune the adjustment and then lock cable locknut.
2. Any thoughts if Haynes is correct way to do the adjustment?
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Thanks Drewpy and HoughMade, yes that clears it up
.exess4, what does that do exactly to balance the carbs, where those tubes hooked up to carb, (seems like gas to each carb?)? I remember you posting this and drewpy photoshopping a funny pic based on this after haha.
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There are 3 adjustments. This adjusts the idle speed:
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The screw on the spring-loaded shaft between the carbs adjusts balance. In the pic above, that would be right behind the idle speed screw I circled.
The screw on each carb...on "back" as you say- the side facing the cylinder, adjust mixture.
1.Cool, so the Idle Speed screw (i think i was confused and drewpy was saying 'Throttle Stop'= this screw, yes?) is the one facing back of bike.
2.Balance Screw is that lil screw in between on the front/(side facing front of bike).
3.And the Idle mixture/Pilot Screw is on each carb on the front too (so 2 screws total)...
You wouldnt happen to have a pic highlighting the 3rd (Idle mixture) screws on yer carb? I kinda looked around there the other day and didnt see a screw sticking out to adjust and the manual seems to only show pics of the other 2 screws but never the 3rd (i guess cause they dont want you to adjust them)
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they are the same thing
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wow massive post, thanks drewpy, just to confirm what i think you said ...
The 'Idle mixture' screw and 'Pilot' screw and the 'Throttle Stop' screw and 'the screw that is set at factory and has an anti-tamper knob' are all the same thing, the one in the back of carb?
I guess then there's just 2 adjustments on the carb, that one and the butterfly-balancer(exhaust pressure check), correct?
Thanks for excellent post!
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Silly question... but I been a bit confused lately with the different adjustment screws on my 1978 xs400 carb after reading my manual ...
When people talk about adjusting the mixture ... is this the 'Idle mixture' screw or 'Pilot screw' (not sure officially what to call it)?...
and is that the screw on the back of the carb that you use to get the rpm's 1200 at idle for example.
Is this also known as the 'Throttle Stop' screw as well or is that different (saw this mentioned in my manual)?
Another other screw, other than back one mentioned above, is the carb exhaust balance one (not sure of the official name for it)... but it is to make sure the pressure coming out of the exhaust is the same by adjust this one screw (i guess it adjust the amount of something coming into each carb (air? or gas?) which affects the exhaust/output coming out of cylinder).
and a 3rd that I think exists is another mixture screw (not sure what it is called or where its located on my 1978 XS400), but it is set at factory and has a special plastic thing to stop you from tampering with it according to my manual (guess these were from the 1978 EPA regulations).
I remember there is a screw that you can't turn in too much, or the tip of it will break... Which one is that from above screws?...
I guess I'm looking for an education carb tutorial if anyone wants to clarify carb adjustments
(where the screws for them are and how/what they affect whats going into the carb and into the engine) -
i own both clymers and haynes, but the latest project DT250 has me laughing my tail off looking in the haynes - no instructions are offered for testing coils, condensers, etc, because the operation calls for a piece of "specialized equipment", a multimeter!!!!!!(no one is suspected to own such a device)-- (3 USD at harbor freight)
I think the Clymer is more model specific on my bike as well and also has nice easier to read, simple step by step instructions...
The Haynes covers more years/models for my bike but seems to sometimes have more detailed photo/pics.
In the end, get both. I like to compare things to do in both to double check.
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Coincidentally i got this email today replying about a xs400 electronic ignition kit I asked about a month ago:
Dear Sir,
The (1978) XS400E needs the CKT-YAM4 Newtronic kit. At the moment this kit is not in manufacture but should be available later in the year.
Please check our website for product updates or visit our eBay shop for product availability.
Your sincerely,
Autocar Sales Support
www.autocar-electrical.com
just in case someone wants to try a prebuilt ignition vs using other parts as noted above
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Can't help you on the races, but I believe the bearings to be 1/4"....so not metric. I actually hand ground the races with a Dremel and it worked well.
The non-stock tapered bearings i heard are better,
not sure what model you have:
if you want the stock part, probably listed here:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1982/parts.html
Pick yer exact model, and probably go into STEERING parts section to find stock part #, probably in 1-9 area
I kinda asked about this months ago:
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Cool raw metal could be cool.
... And trust me the tought has crossed my mind about that factory orange color.
Hah... the only bike I ever liked in orange was the cb 350 candy gold/orange? color:...
Heres a beaut cafe for sale in san fran (too expensive though for an 99% stock CB):
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I guess you could call it a whole different model of the xs400. I just cant leave well enough alone.
i like the tank. like the squarer tank and the paint job yamaha did on it. although would be cool to have alloy looking tank to match the seat/fender.
Cool Bike!
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just get the pod's from mikesXS or get a set of uni filter's . i paid like 14 buck's each for the uni's at the local moto shop and they work gr8 . the k&n are a ripoff. just check the o.d on the carb's to see what size you need
smallest filter on mikesxs was 54mm, the xs400 is 48mm i believe btw.
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Guys at K&N looked at some photos of my '78 xs400 air filter area and said "the opening is too close to the side wall. Plus the filter neck is rubber and needs to attach to a hard round neck, and this looks like pliable rubber.". I assume the filter i guess should get put directly onto the carb and not the rubber part for the stock filter and I shoulda sent them better pics of the carb hehe.
Curious if anyone knows what exact model K&N's would work with 78 XS400E?
I saw cheap pod filters on ebay ($10 pod versus various 48mm K&N priced at $44), but I dunno if I should trust them versus K&N.
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Asking for my friend who rebuilt a 85 Ninja 600r,
He rebuilt an engine new gaskets/piston rings etc with help from a beginner mechanic ... Engine looks sealed tight.
Finally got the engine on the bike after months. and engine turns over, but doesnt start.
Quick test showed no compression (maybe 10 max he said).
I think the mechanic said might be cam chain timing opening valves at weird times so compression doesnt go well...
Is this true? what else could it be?
and how to solve if it is the cam chain timing ... any steps to fix correctly (his manual should have it i guess)... (im sure he'll ask his mechanic boss but just wanted to get some other opinions as well)
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if your really worried about stripping the cross head
Say Drewps, sounds like we're milking this thing.....
haha sorry about milking it. just wanted to know what part that screw is, as I think it may be already stripped.
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thats a sweet bike. myself am working on a xs400 cafe racer. (will post pic once i learn how)lol!
Can i ask what size rear wheel you are running?
To share pics here... Open up a flickr.com or picasa.com account, then upload pics to your account and then each pic has a public link (goto the individual pic in flickr and should be a link you can copy on the page) ... For this site, just click the Pic icon when you are posting, and paste that link in the popup.
I took some pics of it today ... The model of tire is listed (browse through the pics to enlarge, but i think the rear wheel is a Continental TKV 12 (110/90-18) and the front is Dunlop D404 (100/90-18) ):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7979944@N04/sets/72157623855660041/
Dont know what they equate to in inches. Maybe conversion chart out there, but i havent found a good one
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Here's what you do. Get a 6 or 12 point 12MM deep socket. Put it over the lock nut, hold the socket with a vise-grip. Insert a Phillips head screwdriver (through the 3/8 or 1/2" opening where the ratchet attaches) and holding the screw stationary, turn the socket counter clockwise to loosen the lock nut. Make necessary adjustments. To tighten the screw after adjustment, hold the screwdriver steady and turn the socket clockwise to tighten the nut.
Phil
Cool thats very easily understandable. Thanks for details
...My tip is to be sure the phillips driver tip you use seats nicely in the screw they strip out fairly easy especially if it hasn't been adjusted for awhile they can be stubborn (I know from experience).
Yup, Im a bit worried about that. Is the screw availble somewhere here?: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1978/XS400E/CRANKCASE%20COVER/parts.html I see the clutch adjustment cover, but not the locknut or screw inside... maybe a different part of the site.
in case stripped?
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So I was debating selling my 1st and only bike I bought last year to get a CB 350 last september and then while on vacation someone knocked my bike over (and stole my friends van and busted his other cars windows lol).
So when I came back I decided to make my baby into something beautiful to get back at whoever knocked it over hehe. Hence the name "Black Vengeance".
Here is what she was:
and here is what she is (minus the fork gaiters and maybe K&N air filters I bought ... and my new very cool non-neon helmet which I'll upload in a few weeks):
I bought all the parts (tank/seat courtesy of awesome seller Dave, still havent put on the vintage ABS headlight he made me), and my mechanic in Philly did all work.
Currently putting together a 85' ninja 600R engine with some friends... so I'll probably start doing work on her myself next year (head gasket has a small leak, tranny gets cluckily stuck between first and 2nd alot ... and sometimes a 'softer' stuck (dont need multiple kicks to get out of this state) between 4th and 5th ... put in a new clutch cable, didnt help, will try clutch plates next). Electric usually is iffy, (tries to start it, but 50% of time with choke out doesnt work, but kick always works). Will try installing a new starter-clutch/flywheel in case mine is worn.
Thanks again to everyone that helped, especially drewpy!
Future plans for my reference:
fork gaiters,
new air filters/re-jet,
clutch plates,
starter-clutch,
clutch cable needs to be shortened (covers keyhole lol),
new levers,
neck bearings, bronze swing arm bushings,
powder coat mags black,
vintage looking coker tires on both wheels (think those 3.5"x18" should work on both tires even though the 3 manuals I have conflict that info)
black fender maybe,
Put on vintage headlight (see how looks without fairing),
Rebuild engine,
Get self-cancelling and flashing relay (solid lights currently errrr) to work again.
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you not got one in the yam tool kit?
Well right now, just have generic tools to get job done like a metric wrench kit (Gearwrench X-Beam Combination Ratcheting Metric Wrench Set)
and a metric socket/sparkplug wrench kit (which one socket fit the nut, but couldnt loosen), and some various screwdrivers.
But drewp mentioned a box-spanner to specifically to do that job. wasnt sure if a regular socket wrench can do same thing (maybe im not turning hard enough or something).
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cool, thanks drewpy! I'll try it out.
Dam no hardware stores Lowe's/Home Depot here had box spanners (had huge looking versions of them for plumbing use). And can't find one place online in American that sells them? (only see some metric kits for sale in the U.K.)...
Can this adjustment be done with another tool/Socket Wrench?
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Why not try the actual new old stock part if they cheap enough?
maybe you can try #13 here (or 11?/both?, not sure):
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1977/XS360-2D/REAR%20WHEEL/parts.html
Can google/ebay the part # if can find cheaper.
Maybe post a pic of yer wheel here and someone can confirm if its an XS wheel
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first you need a 10mm box spanner and a philips screwdriver.
the locknut on the clutch adjuster needs to be undone with the box spanner then the screwdriver can be fed through the box spanner and turned clockwise till it lightly stops, then back it off 1/4 turn.
holding the screwdriver still, tighten the box spanner/lock nut up, done
at the clutch lever there should be 3 - 5mm "slack" in the cable
drewps
cool, thanks drewpy! I'll try it out.
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I was trying to do a clutch adjustment this weekend for first time. wasnt really sure what to do... I took off the rubber clutch adjustment cap, and found a 12/13mm hex nut (or locknut, sorry about terminology haha). The Haynes+Clymer manuals said to loosen it, but I tried turning it counterclockwise to no avail. There is a screw I guess holding it in, that looks a tiny bit stripped... but anyway, should I unscrew that with a Phillips so when turning locknut counterclockwise it actually can move 'backward'/towards me (or i shouldnt be touching the screw itself, but only the locknut with a socket wrench)?
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funnily enough based in Canada
Curious the XS400 Haynes manual has one of the carb jets as #142.5 and I think the Keystar Kit has #132.5.
Typo or can trust the Keystar Kit... if using aftermarket pipes, what jets and what sizes should have on hand to use in case need to go with another size jet (only the main jet or other jets as well?)?
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1: I just used a dirt bike fork gaiters and cut them to length, I zipped tied the to make the rest fit and it looks pretty good. The xs650 has bigger forks so you will have a little more slop, but I know that the dirt bike fork gaiters are a lot softer and manageable even though you have to cut some length off of it.
cool thanks guys...
hebrew, you know a good set that will def fit the xs400 33mm?
I saw these, not sure which to pick hehe:
Here is a pair i saw advertised on ebay under xs400 and looked up the part # and found it on partsnmore.com (but under cb450-750 so not sure)
www.rockymountainatvmc.com fork gaiters
Heres a pair that is 33mm but 44mm on the other end?
unless someone is confident the mikesxs xs650 ones can be fit to look good with some instructions
Also just to be clear: fork gaiters replace the fork dust covers right? like its either/or, and not like the gaiters will run over the dust covers somehow...
Some guy walking by who used to have a bike said they went on top the other day and I was like 'huh?, couple peeps told me the gaiters replace the dust covers' and he seemed still pretty confident they go over them lol. Maybe he was confused as I said I also bought fork oil seals which go inside the forks and he was thinking of the fork seals when I was talking about the fork dust covers when he said that
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(where the screws for them are and how/what they affect whats going into the carb and into the engine)
xs400 headlight mounting brackets question
in Classics
Posted
I was debating replace my xs400 mounting brackets with the simple kind that can just screw on the fork (like these)
I was curious... the stock 'mounting brackets' that are on the XS bikes are these kind. like they are part of the fork vs a screw-in type like aftermarket ones.
Can I just remove the old ones when i start working on my forks and screw in the new brackets onto whatever is underneith that? or there is ugly metal underneith them and they are NOT meant to be removed (like maybe what I'd want to do is chop off the actual headlight mount that is welded? onto that stock metal piece and attach/screw the aftermarket mounting brackets onto that metal piece).
Thanks!
On a sidenote, Anyone know anyone from Philly that would come over and help me on my forks and get paid to teach me a thing or two haha (id like to do it right and no mechanic Ive talked to will let me help/watch). I have all the parts/supplies/and most tools needed for front-end (replace steering bearings, install gaiters, install oil seals). Could be an ongoing thing, as i wanted to learn carbs next.