peterxj600
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Posts posted by peterxj600
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Nice one! Is worth all the effort when you get that MOT cert in your mitts.
P
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Hi
If anyone has a pre-div XJ600 instrument cluster in bits, I need to know the resistance of R12 on the circuit board (the big blue resistor), mine has burnt out and knocked out the revcounter(regulator/rectifier problem). Would appreciate if someone could measure this so I can replace it.
Cheers
P
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It sounds like someone's maybe messing you about. Have ordered a fair few OEM Yamaha bits lately (for a 1989 XJ600, so not a recent model like yours)and haven't waited more than 4 days. I get mine through M and S in Newcastle. Can you try another dealer or is the insurance company insisting where you get the parts?
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Just searched FZ750 and got 121 results. Try leaving out the space between FZ and 750
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What about a cheap old SR125 to start with? Keeps the insurance low, not too much in the way of bike expense lost if you drop it and you can muck about with it if you want to learn the maintenance stuff.
Just my twopence worth
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Christ yeah, what was I thinking, is an RS100 not an inter city 125. Please accept my apologies, been a long week!
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Always best to start with the blindingly obvious (because sometimes I don't and it costs!) but are you using a correctly rated fuse, I believe it should be 25amp.
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Anyone used this on their visor? Can't fit a pinlock to my lid and thought I might give this stuff a go. Am I wasting £15?
Cheers
P
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Any pre-diversion coil will be fine. I know the Haynes Manual shows a difference for 89-90 models but in reality a difference of a quarter of an ohm primary resistance is negligible. My XJ is a 1989, bought my replacement RH coil from Wemoto and it works fine.
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If you get rid of it and need another 125, and I know I may be shot for saying this, you can't get more bullet-proof than a CG125. Ouch!
But, if I were you i'd fix it. Any bike described as 'beloved' lol, cannot be parted with.
Best of luck with it
P
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Is fairly well documented that the XJ600/Diversion clutch rattle can be cured by replacing the dowel on the oil pump drive. However, replacing the dowel with a standard Yamaha one does no good because the hole it fits in has worn. Discovered tonight that a gear change roll pin for an Austin Mini (not the BMW one) is a perfect fit, 7/32". They come as an inch long so need to be cut down.
Lovely comfortable old dinosaur of a bike but the rattle has really been getting on my tits
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Politics aside, I love the U.S.A. Tried to get a Green Card (work/residency permit) a few years ago but am not talented or wealthy enough to qualify, exactly how I think the immigration system here in the U.K should be. Did meet a girl from Great Falls,Montana whilst I was over there but marrying for a work permit would have been a step too far!
Things you should share with us;
Dennys, Taco Bell, Gas Station coffee and donuts, Proper sized parking spaces, customer service, tinned jalapenos, cinnamon toothpaste, cheap gas and freedom of speech. You can keep Grits, television and Paris Hilton!
Regards
Peter
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The Motad N-Eta system for the pre-diversion XJ600 looks identical to the original Yamaha 4 into 1 system for the FZ600. Is £300+ from a dealer. I managed to get one (downpipes and silencer) direct from Motad for £79 cos the downpipes are chrome and not black (like that bothers me!).
Good Luck
P
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Got the clutch basket off my XJ600(1989) to replace the annoying rattly dowel on the back of it (a factory fitted rattle from what I have read lol). Noticed there seems to be a lot of play with the oil pump shaft and gear, not side to side but I can pull the oil pump gear in and out about a quarter of an inch. Is there supposed to be some play or do I need to order some more expensive Yamaha parts?
Cheers
P
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Thanks chaps, the steel plates are within tolerance and not warped so i'll just replace the friction ones. There's £30 saved!
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My pre-Div XJ600's clutch is on its last legs. Never replaced a bike clutch before, is it standard practice to replace the steel plates as well as the friction plates? The steel plates in the clutch are still in acceptable condition. Only asking cos when i've replaced car clutches I always replace the plate and cover.
Cheers
P
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That Ron Ayers link is really handy. Thanks very much
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Is there actually a spark at plug 4? If not it may be as simple as replacing the plug cap on the HT lead or at worst, the coil.
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Tacho not working, replaced tacho so can probably discount that being at fault. Does the tacho receive its pulse from an ignition coil or the CDI Unit? One of my coils has way too high secondary resistance so have ordered a new one, that should cure the rough running but I don't think that is the source of the tacho problem. Any ideas welcome
Cheers
Peter
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I wasn't aware they came with a restriction. Or do you have one that has been restricted to 33hp?
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If the cable is screwed correctly to the speedo the inner cable has possibly snapped. Disconnect the cable from the speedo, spin the wheel, does the inner cable still rotate? If it doesn't the cable is snapped.
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Hew mate, ah divvent knaa wot ya taakin aboot. As lang as a can gan aboot the toon on me bike an that ah divvent care wot stuffs spelt like on the net. However, when I am working and writing business letters, spelling and grammar are of the utmost importance. Time and a place for everything me thinks.
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No idea where to get a new one but wemoto (www.wemoto.com) stock a repair kit for it if the original is salvageable.
Best of luck
P
Anyone own a a5 2.0tfsi?
in General
Posted
The 2.0TFSI engines built about 2008 to 2011 suffer from premature wear leading to increased oil consumption (there is a lot of information on Audi forums about it). Audi in the US have been taken to court over it but no such luck in the UK yet. If you have full service history you may have some entitlement to a repair by Audi, the first thing whey will insist on is an oil consumption test, the exact figures are out there on the net but I think if you use about a litre of oil in about 600 miles you have the fault. I work for a dealer, we had this problem with a trade in, the final repair bill was about £2500 (new pistons, rings and top end rebuild). We don't touch these with a bargepole now.
Best of luck with it.