jebb
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Posts posted by jebb
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Hi,
Anyone know where I can get a set of fork gaitors for a dt175mx....cant seem to find one's long enough with the right top and bottom diameter.
Cheers
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Cheers for that...got one ordered!
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I think at 400 odd quid I'll give the genuine one a miss...copy here we come....
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Sorry, should have specified...its for the dt
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Has anyone any experience of using the mikuni copies for sale on t'internet??
My original one is scrap and there doesn't seem to be any around.
Cheers
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Hi,
...is it true that you don't have to strip the forks down to change the seals on a dt175mx???
Cheers
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Hi....my front rim is crap....would an xt250/350 drum brake model wheel fit? Not bothered about a bit of fettling just after an alloy rim!!
Cheers
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Evening all....got myself a new project, an 1981 dt 175...does anyone know what finish should be on the bottom yoke...is it that green finish that Yamaha used to put on kickstarts etc around the time or is it gloss or satin??
Cheers
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Hi,
Just a thought, have you tried cmsnl.com? I used them a few times for my dt. Good luck
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It does make you wonder why on earth a 125 single needs a pump in the first place
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Hi chief
all speedos are inaccurate. Don't worry about it unless it's like my old garelli, which used to sway between 10 and 30 no matter what speed I did
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Hi all,
I bought a 2000 thundercat the other day which had been layed up for about a year. At the moment it starts and idles fine but when you rev it its gags and sputters at about 8000rpm and its the same whilst riding it, very sketchy.
My best guess is the carbs need a good clean out (unless anyone else can think of summin else it might be) which leads my to my next question.
I can get a nice pair of carbs from a 96 model that are clean and was wondering if they'll fit as it will save me the cost of buying 4 carb gaskets.
Amy help/advice appreciated.
Hi,
earlier carbs will fit fine, but you are best off getting the originals cleaned professionally. ( I had mine done a few years back for £50 ). The earlier carbs may look clean but unless you know where there coming from you cant guarantee they'll be any better than the present ones. If you do them yourself immerse the innards in nail varnish remover or paint stripper-you can re-use the gaskets.
Hope this is of some use
Cheers
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Hmm i've never seen one of these can you PM me some pictures I would like to see it?
[/q
Will do; I'll have to get my daughter to do it.....turning on a kettle is about the limit of my electrical capabilities.....
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DEP sound good, are you sure yours doesnt just need re-packing though?...much cheaper than replacing it
Chief,
cant repack the bugger its welded all round. Actually I think it looks like it came like this as standard.
Just too loud; 25 years ago it would'nt have bothered me...
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'Evening,
just after some advice regarding aftermarket tail pipes; the Gianelli I have on at the moment is far too loud ( eventhough it is BS marked), has any body any experience of 'big one' tail pipes that I've seen on ebay? Don't want sewing machine quietness nor annoying blast.
Any help appreciated.
Cheers
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Hi
I've got a 1981 DT175MX. The carb on it, which I believe to be original, is model no 2H501. My Haynes manual has the spec for a 2h500, but not the 2H501.
What I'm trying to confirm is the correct main jet for this particular carb. The bike came with a 170 fitted, and I reckon that's too rich - the bike struggles to get through 6000, but once through 6000, it takes off. Depending on what you read, it seems 130 or 160 are possible std sizes.
Obviously once the main is sorted I can then fine tune the needle setting.
Anyone able to help?
Many thanks
Lee
Hi,
I wouldn't worry too much about what is supposed to be the right jet size- do a plug chop and decrease as necessary.
My own Lemon should be running (according to Mr. Haynes) a 160, but even with a full gianelli system it still is a bit rich with a 140. Trial and error I suppose
Cheers
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Yes but i would not do it all the time though stick with semi synth, do not however use a castor base oil mixed wih any other oil it will turn into a jelly
Thanks Chief - just wasn't sure
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Hi,
just need a bit of advice please. I can't remember whether its ok to mix mineral and semi-synthetic two stroke oils together or not?...Cheers in advance
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Hello everyone,
I've had my YBR for 7 good months now during which time it has been totally trouble free.
The other day i took the bike for a 50 mile ride along faster roads (holding a steady 65) with which it just about handled in the normal YBR fashion, however as i neared my destination the engine began to run in a very strange manner, there was a really noticeable decrease in power and as i twisted the throttle the delivery was not at all smooth.
The bike was shaking markedly more than usual, to the point where it was feeling rather unstable.
I managed to get it home where since i've done the usual checks; air filter, fuel filter, spark plug and chain which might cause running like this yet all came back clear.
Which leaves me with the only ideas being either a carb or electrics problem, and i could really do without a bill from the dealership to fix it!
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Blake
Chief,
sounds like it was nipping up; check your oil level
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Hey everyone
im itching to get back to the UK and take my trusty rusty XJ out for a spin, but before i left i was having problems and id like to try and get to the bottom of it before i start thrashing it like a loonie again.
at high speeds (80-100) for extended periods of time it would die, almost asif running lean, during this time if the throttle is closed and opened gradually the bike will recover and run normally up to about half/3-4 throttle, on the first incident it cut out and would not run right until i had left it to stand for about 2-3 minutes, after which it appeared to be fine (by this time i was riding through the town, not at speed).
i also experiance a lag when opening from part to full throttle at speed, it will cut back before running up to full power and takes approximately 1 second from it cutting to recovering, i have done a plug chop and to no avail, spark plugs look like overcooked cornflakes which (as i understand) is good.
it is running a motad 4-1 system, everything else is stock, theres plenty of oil in it and its never done it to me before up until a few months ago, carbs were also balanced a few months ago
as always any thoughts appreciated gents,
I think you've answered your own question...'its never done it to me before up until a few months ago, carbs were also balanced a few months ago'. Prob must lie there check them again or take back to place that did the balancing.
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sounds normal to me jebb, mine is like that...they just about toot the horn when fully charged.
You could prove it is or is not a leakage by putting a multimeter in series to the battery. Switched to DC Amps
or should I say, disconnect the fuse, touch the battery side with the + probe and the other side with the - probe and see if theres a significant current reading.
Thanks chief, will do
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Evening all,
advice/help needed with one of those problems that niggle; something seems to be sucking the life out of my battery.
Its new but every time I turn off the ignition the battery drains, allbeit slowly; the horn will operate but after about 5 mins it will only 'dink' . Once started the battery charges up fine; idiot lights brighten up etc.
Could this be a bad earth?
Cheers
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Hi Guys, I just brought 99 R6. It is really good condition. The only problem I have is that the indicator on the left side flashes fast then slow. Both of the bulbs are working.(so a blown bulb isnt the issue). Basicly I turn the left indicator on then they flash fast for a few seconds then flash normal speed then fast again for a few secs. Any ideas what is causing this?
Might seem obvious but check that all of the bulbs are the same wattage/voltage
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a shop
Beautiful chief
Gaitors
in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes
Posted
That's great, thanks...the wemoto ones look the ticket!