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steven smith

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Posts posted by steven smith

  1. I would suggest that the original forks be put in the skip still attached the bike ,,no only joking ,the dt 125r forks are way better than the standard ones ,the dampening is way better and the best part of changing the forks is the front disc brake, you can stop now which is what I wanted to achieve, I will admit to loss of steering lock but only really need that for parking ,I did find that changing the rear tyre too a fatter one has made it a bit unnerving at times.

  2. hi all wish to tell you of my experience of trying this mod to my dt and hopefully answer some peoples questions

    DSC00946_zps8tkexscb.jpg?t=1433764991

    as you can see it is very heavily modded bike ,you name it and i,ve done it or tried it with this bike and other dt,s ,anyways the fitment of the boost bottle was fairly straight forward,just using cable ties to secure it at the moment and had to put another jubilee clip on so it would not touch the cylinder ,don't ask about the throttle cable ,it still works but might cause others a few issues ,i would also like to add at this point i have tried various inlet rubbers from other yams dt125lc rd 350ypvs and they wont fit with out serious and pointless modding ,the one off a Yamaha Rx 100 125 135 will fit but your have trouble with the exhaust being in the way and throttle cable

    DSC01491_zps6rysizgm.jpg?t=1433765396

    ok so what has the boost bottle done to performance and is it worth doing, right first of ,big yes, especially if you have ever done any modding like changing the exhaust front pipe ,porting ,at the moment i have a rd350ypvs carb with a separate mikuni power jet fitted with the original needle from my dt 175mx so i can try and get the bottom end jetting right ,the bike would gas and fart at low rpms and when you whacked on the throttle it was to rich , when i fitted the boost bottle it was a massive improvement to my low and mid range riding , it felt a bit lean at first in the mid range, so i made it richer on the needle which was a big no no before and runs even better now, when you ride it fast and let the throttle off there's no more coughing and spluttering ,it feels really neutral,like the engines turned off or some ones put there hand over the end of carb ,and when you whack the throttle on ,it picks up straight away , i would say if your have issues with you low and mid-range and can for the love of money get you needle right then this is well worth a try ,i would also like to add ,a couple of months ago before i fitted the boost bottle i changed my older style fiber reed petals to the newer carbon fiber ones ,there great,my bike before all ways ran like it had an air leak until i changed to carbon fiber ones

    DSC01492_zpsadmflsvb.jpg?t=1433765396

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  3. hi has any one brought a new clutch resently for a dt 175 mx and not been able to fit 6 plates as im having a night mare ,i can only fit 5 and its slipping like hell ,ive mesured the new plate and there 4 mm not 3mm as the book says ,this the second clutch i ve brought with the same problem any idears thanks steven

  4. hi can any one give us some advise ,i have a dt175mx and its rattling bad ,it sounds its worst when i back of the throttle and when i am costing between 4 and 6 ,000 rpm,please this is an engine issue not things loose or gaskets mnissing etc thanks

  5. i ve been wait years for some one to come up with this ,i fitted a yamaha dt125r front end to my dt175mx to improve braking and suspension, i also fitted a cemoto enduro headlight unit and the origanal clocks would nt fit ,so now ive upgrade to 12v i have entered the wonderfull world of 12v accessories and fitted a trail tech vapor digital speedo which is 12v and works fine and fits nicely,

    i,ve been running my dt175mx for 2 years now with a 12v upgrade with no problems what so ever ,not even a blown bulb ,after buying all the parts new to convert to 12v worked out £4 dearer than buying a new 6v battery ,thanks neo

  6. Hi mate, i've converted my r6 to the r1 usd forks and and transforms the handling, looks gorgeous aswell, quite easy to do if you've got the right bits, as far as i know you could use the newer r6 forks but you'd have the issue of changing the front wheel to that same year as the forks cos the axles, spacers and wheel fitment arnt the same whereas the 5eb r6 front kit is the same as the 4xv r1 apart from the yokes obviously, heres them fitted to mine

    DSC00202.jpg

    i only needed the bottom yoke as i had a billet ally custom top yoke made, i can write you up some instructions of what to do and what you need if you like, got some pictures of the stages of mine aswell if you wana see

    hi i want to do this to my r6 please can you give a list of parts needed and also what changes on the bike i.e is the bike higher or lower ,distances between things ,ignition key , steering turn ,handel bars hitting petrol tank ,cable lengths ,can i still use r6 sreering damper ,things like that ,many thanks steven

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