Parsley1000
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Posts posted by Parsley1000
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thats right ,that's why i think it could be inlet rubbers or compression, one more thing i just thought, on the inlets there are blanking rubbers, they are for carb vacuum gauges,they sometimes brake down & let air in, when a bike with CV carbs is at tick over,the butterflys are amost shut,there then is a very lagre vacuum in the inlet rubbers ,if there is a very small spit it will pull air though that spit,but haveing a good old think, its more than likely to be cloged air filter, that will make it run rich, & you did say she run ok with the fillter out and air box off,or you could say fu** it & fit some K&Ns !!!!!!! make life a lot easyer when you need to take carbs off,
well if i was talking from my back side,then so be it, ive done ok from it, i have 3 blokes working for me, 4 hols a year, 750i BMW, and BMW M5, not bad for talking shit
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You are talking out of your backside.
If you change the carbs and it still happens then its not the carbs.
thats right ,that's why i think it could be inlet rubbers or compression, one more thing i just thought, on the inlets there are blanking rubbers, they are for carb vacuum gauges,they sometimes brake down & let air in, when a bike with CV carbs is at tick over,the butterflys are amost shut,there then is a very lagre vacuum in the inlet rubbers ,if there is a very small spit it will pull air though that spit,but haveing a good old think, its more than likely to be cloged air filter, that will make it run rich, & you did say she run ok with the fillter out and air box off,or you could say fu** it & fit some K&Ns !!!!!!! make life a lot easyer when you need to take carbs off,
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The most obvious answer Eric, is that you are getting a fuel vapour lock when the bike is hot. It must be common to all carbs otherwise it would still run and its not electrics as they heat up quickly and the bike runs. So you must examine your fuel feed pipe and see where its getting hot.
most obvious , ok, but it wont be that,if a set of carbs you know are ok & still you are having probs, you need to get compression test done, i know you siad the inlet rubbers are ok, but how did you check ? its not always poss to do a visual check, run the bike with the tank off , ues a long petol pipe, tank must be conected or it'll run lean, then put plenty of oil on each inlet rubber,in turn , if you get smoke out of the exhaust then that inlet had a split, or if you are in the Norwich area bring it to my work shop , ive been trading for 16 years, i have all sorts of diagnostic equiptment,
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Sorry mate if you have milky oil in the gearbox then it wont be the cyl head. It is just a water jacket around the head and barrel nowhere for the gearbox oil to get mixed with the coolant like a 4stroke.
It will be the water pump, i had a 350 that did the same filled the box with orrible 'monkey sp#nk' as was the popular dicription at the time and if it gets that bad its lots of meths and patientce to get the bl##dy stuff out.
You may get away with an oil change if it was just a bit milky from condensation in the oil from stop start use, but that is prob a bit on the optomistic side.
yep water pump seal,deffo, like he siad,water jacket is no where near the box, as for rs50,well sorry to tell ya mate,you'll never catch that !!! dont get pump kit off ebay bud, they just dont last, gen yam will be a bit dearer but it will fit properly & last longer, i have loads of youngsters bring their bikes to me to fit a new seal kit saying they had a go at it with ebay crap thinking its them not fitting it correctly Parsley ps your bike looks rite nice
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Its the idle mixture , its too rich, it may just be a cloged air filter , if not then ,what you need to do is this, take the tank off ,to gain access to the carbs ,on the top of the carbs, where they join the intake rubbers, there are 4 screws , 1 on each carb, they are slightly lower than the suurface and made from brass, turn them all the way in,then unscrew them 1 and 1/2 turns out, if you still have probs turn in 1/2 a turn untill its ticks over ok, if you still have probs, then your idle jets are blocked, but thats very unlikely coz she runs when cold , its deffinately not coil or leads, coils either work or they dont, leads will play up when they are wet, plugs play up when they are under pressure ,pulling away, uphills ect, if you need any help just i.m me, Parsley
just thought of something else , has the bike ever been fitted with K&Ns or the like, it may have been up jetted, have a look at the plugs, are they black, thats a sign that she's running rich, if none of these, then try getting a compression test, um, have you tried adjusting the tick over , sometimes they do vibrate out,sometimes it the real obviouse things that get over looked,I once had a bike in my garage, bloke trailered it over to me & he said it wont start,its completely dead,it was nothing more sinister than the kill switch was off!!
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Engines dying when hot can be pickup coils for electrnic ignition going open circuit or even the ignition coils themselves Cant explain the airbox phenomenon though, thats got me scratching my head, next time it dies can you check for sparks on pots 1&2 . Fuel starvation can also be a problem, if the fuel filter (wherever it is) is getting blocked. but i would only expect this symptom if you were running in 'Prime' position on your fuel tap!
Im interested to know if youre running in prime position though (assuming there is one on your bike)
Its the idle mixture , its too rich, it may just be a cloged air filter , if not then ,what you need to do is this, take the tank off ,to gain access to the carbs ,on the top of the carbs, where they join the intake rubbers, there are 4 screws , 1 on each carb, they are slightly lower than the suurface and made from brass, turn them all the way in,then unscrew them 1 and 1/2 turns out, if you still have probs turn in 1/2 a turn untill its ticks over ok, if you still have probs, then your idle jets are blocked, but thats very unlikely coz she runs when cold , its deffinately not coil or leads, coils either work or they dont, leads will play up when they are wet, plugs play up when they are under pressure ,pulling away, uphills ect, if you need any help just i.m me, Parsley
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Hi when you say a tight spot, do you mean ,at some pont the whole chain gets tight or you have a thight link? if its a tight link then as above, but if the whole chain get tight as if its be over adusted, it will be a hores shoe link, if you get the back wheel of the ground, turn it untill it gets tight, the link will be just getting on to the rear cog, if this is so, take the link out , & bin it, replaes with a rivet one, hores shoe's a crap,& must not be relaed on ,Parsley
Ment to say, to see if your sprockets are geting worn, spin the wheel backwards, the chain should sound the same as spining forward, to see if chain is worn, you should not be able to lift the chain off the back sprocket, ie- pull the chain at abt the 3 a clock poss, toward the back of ya bike, it should'nt move ,the more it move,the more shaged it is, Parsley
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Get a scottoiler. I did 65,000mls on my Honda and didn't have one, changed to a Yamaha in March had one put on and I can't believe the ease of it. Just had my 6000mls service and they adjusted the chain for the first time! Work out the figures if you buy 10 cans of lube you have paid for a scottoiler
Square Box
Hi when you say a tight spot, do you mean ,at some pont the whole chain gets tight or you have a thight link? if its a tight link then as above, but if the whole chain get tight as if its be over adusted, it will be a hores shoe link, if you get the back wheel of the ground, turn it untill it gets tight, the link will be just getting on to the rear cog, if this is so, take the link out , & bin it, replaes with a rivet one, hores shoe's a crap,& must not be relaed on ,Parsley
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Hi there,
I have a 2003 R6 and had the TPS (throttle position sensor) changed about 3 months ago, I fitted a power commander and used one of the maps from the web, last weekend went for a blast and the bike kept cutting out but only when I stopped at traffic lights, so basically no idle whatsoever, when I switched the ignition off and then on again the bike ran fine for a few hours then did it again, is it possible that the power commander is causing this problem? because I haven't had a custom map created specifically for my bike? also I used super unleaded petrol a couple of times while out only due to the garages out in the sticks not having normal, could this cause a problem?
Thanks in advance
Hi, i recon its the power commander soft wear, its very un-likely to be petrol, all moden bike are made to run on std unleaded, power commander cost a good few £££, id take it to a dyno & get it set up by the pro's, if your map was free, whos to know if it a good or bad map, or you could spend a bit more, & get the proper soft wear, then you can load what ever you like onto the cammander, ie race, bimble,town ect Parsley
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This is what I do Parsley
- Open a photobucket account
- Upload your pics there
- with each pic you will see four fields
- Copy the IMG field
- Paste into the forum
Hell, whats a photo bucket? never mind bucket, think ill say f###et
thanks for your help,think ill get one of my lads to sort it for me,they'll know what all then fields & IMG's are all about
but ever need advice about bikes & bike motors ,im ya man - Open a photobucket account
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How'd ya get pic on here???
Im a bike mec,not a pc bloke,its took a good while,with help from my teen age boys, to work this out!!! but got some pics of my FZR & some of the wife's YX, i've done a fair to both bikes & would love show em to ya all ,Parsley -
Been Done Parsley, Funny it is
http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php...amp;hl=ladybird
Ahhh Im always the last to know,
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made me smile
i think i've pasted the link on here right -
I use MER RAIN AWAY....it can be used on helmets and works well for me. All MER products are good.
Yep ,a good car wax,then when the water build up ,look to one side & then the other, the wind blows the water of,
works for me or you could try what my missus do, she wont ride her YX if there's the slightest risk of rain, she recon it'll make her bike dirty!!!!! -
i have a 2000 r6.
thats failing to hold its charge, i have had the battery tested and it charges and reads fine.
but then a after 8-9hrs is flat and fails to start ..... is it the battery or more likely the alternator ??
any ideas
Thats gonna be ya batt, you can test tha alt by starting the motor,with the lights off,put a multimeter on the bat,try to hold the revs at 3k, meter should read 13.8 v to 14.2, if you dont have a m/meter,a indication that the alt is charging is to turn on the light then rev the motor to 4-5k light should get brighter
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Hi there,
As a new member I'm interested to hear your opinions and knowledge concerning which oil I should use in my engine.
I have an old FZS600 Fazer which has done just over 30k miles and would appreciate any advise as to which make or spec of oil would be most suitable.
Many Thanks
Subbyrob
hi, DONT DONT DONT put car oil of any kind in a bike, Car motor oil has a detergent in it & it cleans the clutch plates & make them slip at high revs, just when you need a bit of power to over-take, clutch will let you down, trust me on this one ,im a bike mechanic, Fully synthetic is mainly for high reving motors R1s ect, semi is good for your bike , I use Motul in my workshop,the difference between synthetic & mineral is, synthetic stay the same hot or cold,ie it does'nt go thin when hot, so is much better for high reving motors that run hoter than low reving motors, Parsley
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Hi there,
As a new member I'm interested to hear your opinions and knowledge concerning which oil I should use in my engine.
I have an old FZS600 Fazer which has done just over 30k miles and would appreciate any advise as to which make or spec of oil would be most suitable.
Many Thanks
Subbyrob
hi, DONT DONT DONT put car oil of any kind in a bike, Car motor oil has a detergent in it & it cleans the clutch plates & make them slip at high revs, just when you need a bit of power to over-take, clutch will let you down, trust me on this one ,im a bike mechanic, Fully synthetic is mainly for high reving motors R1s ect, semi is good for your bike , I use Motul in my workshop, Parsley
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Oh mate, sounds like it sized up,two stroke will sizeup ,then when they are cool they will free of a bit,but what happens is the rings damage the cylinder, resulting in compression loss ,look like you need a top end rebuild,Parsley
were are you? if you are in the norwich area & can get it to me, ill fix it for you Parsley
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Oh mate, sounds like it sized up,two stroke will sizeup ,then when they are cool they will free of a bit,but what happens is the rings damage the cylinder, resulting in compression loss ,look like you need a top end rebuild,Parsley
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I can't seem to find a way to get the pistons out of my caliper. I brought them to a shop so they could use their compressed air to 'push' them out but no luck.
The only thing I can think of next would be to use the master cylinder.
I had them soak in some PB Blaster overnight, no change.
They only have 644 miles on them.
Any other suggestions?
hi yes the best way of getting them out is to pump em out with the brake master cylinder, take the pads out,if you havent already done so, then pump the brake lever, watch which piston that gives first, then clamp that one with mole grips or some thing like that, then pump untill the other piston gives, when it does, take the mole grips off and pump untill they both come out, Parsley
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Hi Folks,
I own a '92 3HE FZR600 Genesis (tho its says 1994 on V5 doc), which I use daily and enjoy.
But wanted opinions from other owners. My bike really doesnt seem to like pulling away too well when below 3000 rpm and I find myself dropping gears to overtake people. Bike pulls well through the range apart from that.
Is this normal - or should I be worried?!?!?!?!
Also on the lookout for an exhaust and engine casings ( to replace minor damage caused by previous owners ) if anyone has anything out there for sale! :-)
Looking forward to hearing from other owners!
hi , no you have nothing to worry abt, the 600 motor has the ignition slightly advanced for top end performance,so thats why it feels sluggish under 3000 rpm,driving through town is always a pain with them,i've a good few customers who have to have their clutch adjusted & even reyplaced Parsley
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hi, there is a pipe that runs from the rocker cover to the airbox, its the breather for the motor ,idear is ,any oil mist is burt with the petrol ,it some times there is more oil mist than the motor can take in so this usually settles in the bottom of the airbox,then it will run out through any gap it can find,so give the airbox a good clean and keep an eye on it,if it gets worse then there could be a another prob, but that is very unlikely Parsley
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Hi guys sorry i'm new here and in need of help i'll try and give you as much info as i know. I have managed to purchase the only R1 Carbon Checa ever built buy Q8 Carbon in Day Glow orange marlboro colours. its a 2000 w with only 300 genuine miles on the clock. the person who sold the bike is innocent i believe but after doing only 117 miles the back wheel locked up and nearly threw me off. i've had a yamaha mechanic strip the engine to find that someone had put sand into the engine threw the oil filler meaning that the engine is now scrap. i spoke to yamaha this morning who have advised me that it will cost in the region of 4.5k to repair as they dont sell new engines.
So now i have to either find a good second hand engine with low miles or stump up nearly 5.5k inc labour to get this extreamly rare machine back to its original condition.
Any idea's on where to go next or help with parts would be great
simon
Hell man thats realy bad luck, that is criminal damage, i would ask the seller if he had a falling out with any one,it might just be that some one was trying to get back at him not knowing he was going to sell it, if some one is cought ,they will be made to pay, aslo speak to the old Bill
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Hi parsley i've got an 87 fzr1000 genesis i'm about to strip and rebuild this winter i will be giving you a shout for some advice.
no worries i'll be glad to help
xj600 standing long time wont start/fuel leak
in Yamaha Workshop
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