andrewed1 Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) Hi all.. i am hoping you can help me.. i have just got a 1992 XJ600 Seca II for a project bike (basically to learn on) and need help.. i tried to start it today after i pickup it up and connected the battery and hit the starter button. this resulted in the Starter motor spinning a humming noise (zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz) and never got close to starting the bike, or engaging the flywheel Yes i did buy the bike and have not heard it running as the seller did not have a battery but did say it had a stater issue. Would this be a simple fix like pulling the started and clean then refit, or from experience could there be more. any idea's ?? l would like to get it started before i start throwing money at it.... thanks Andrew... Edited October 5, 2015 by andrewed1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted October 5, 2015 Moderator Share Posted October 5, 2015 sounds like the sprag clutch spinning. usually an engine out job did you have a fully charged battery as a low amps can be enough not to spin it up fast enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewed1 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Yes Battery full as i took my car battery out and connected via jump cables.. Engine out job huh.. mmmm.i was hoping for a easy fix at this point.thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted October 5, 2015 Moderator Share Posted October 5, 2015 Yes Battery full as i took my car battery out and connected via jump cables.. Engine out job huh.. mmmm.i was hoping for a easy fix at this point.thank you.bump start then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Yep run it down hill and leap on dump the clutch in second gear and hang on for all your worth, makes an exciting first ride. Afraid as Drewpy says the sprag clutch can be a bit of a bastard, take the starter motor off first tho and see if it might just be a worn gear on the end of the shaft. One good thing about this bike tho they are easy to work on and getting the engine out is a piece of piss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewed1 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) I am yet to bump/jump start it, will need to test brakes first and see if they work. OK so i pulled the starter and the gear on that looks ok, Wait for it....... BUT... then i look inside the the Starter Gear (or what ever its name is) i can see the issue guess now i will need to prep for surgery in the near future (after parts are sourced of course). Are they any aftermarket part for these bikes or just original ??. For now, i guess i will just start at the front and fix the fork seals... OK any special tools needed for this job? can they be made easily? thanks Edited October 6, 2015 by andrewed1 added details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) Don't think you need any special tools for the engine strip, can you take it back? Looks like the guy who sold it to you must have known that this was a problem, there's no way that wasn't obvious and if he told you it was fine then he's a lying arsehole !!! If your going to keep it then you should use genuine parts but second hand will be fine for something like this, just check for cracks and breaks BEFORE you part with your money, don't think this is a common fault with this bike and seems to be just the luck of the draw when it comes to parts breaking. Buy the manual (Haynes or Clymr) when you can as that has most of the details that you will need to get the thing apart, remember take LOT'S of photos as you strip it, that way you can get it back together properly. Good luck and keep telling us what's happening.As for front fork well you could watch this to get some ideas. https://youtu.be/vrmYJgcGX30Tells you about normal and USD fork plus some info on cartridge forks as well, watch it all the way through and you will see it's easy and even does away with the need for "special" tools. Edited October 6, 2015 by slice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabiostar Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 iv just done the forks on my divvie.. easy mind you its not in any books lolremove forks. pluck out retaining clip and old seals with a small screw driver. slide the new ones down the legs. fill with oil.. total time 1 hour , job done and they are working fine again 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevtheRev Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 A length of plastic pipe of a suitable diameter is very handy for driving in new fork seals . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Id be inclined to check that the engine actually turns over first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewed1 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 A length of plastic pipe of a suitable diameter is very handy for driving in new fork seals .Thanks this will be very useful. iv just done the forks on my divvie.. easy mind you its not in any books lolremove forks. pluck out retaining clip and old seals with a small screw driver. slide the new ones down the legs. fill with oil.. total time 1 hour , job done and they are working fine againthanks it is always a little uneasy dismantling the unknown for the 1st time.... Id be inclined to check that the engine actually turns over firstEngines turns overs and also has some compression. I will be rebuilding the engine.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewed1 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Well The fix up is going slowly, and the more i look at this bike the more i see what is wrong with it. I am glad i never tried to bump start it. Ah Well..... Anyway back to the good part of the bike "Fixing things". 1) As previous posted pulled the forks of and needed the damper rod tool. I followed the instruction from the Hayes manual. I Purchased a length of 5/8th square tube ($6 aud) and a 24mm hex bolt ($2 aud) and inserted it into the tube and got it welded at a local factory (free).. Worked perfectly... I should by a welder to do this myself... Photos to come of the tool Here are the forks stripped and dripping in separate buckets (1 for each side) Decided to at least give the bottom part a clean so sanded them back ready to paint... Sanded Before painting After painting - (looks a lot better) Now Just to clean the tubes of the pitting spot and wait for the arrival of the new Seal,bushes and dust caps to rebuild them.. 2) Next I striped the head-stock to check it out (since the forked where out) to me they look pretty bad. So order a new kit from pyramid parts Australia. 3) While i was there i pulled out the front caliper and M/C. looked like the calipers needs a complete clean and repair and look at the M/C that is muck in the bottom... The Front Caliper The M/C Just by pulling this bike apart i do not think the PO looked after it and basically took advantage of my lack of knowledge..Once i get this fixed i will be riding by his house.... just to show off!! On a good note got my bike learners to day to now ready to ride... oops need a bike hahaha. I will most likely have my full licence by the time i finish this bike rebuild. That's it for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slice Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) Oh FFS that head stock has never been greased, at least not since it was in the factory, it's a wonder it never locked in place. At least the lower forks look better now (well done) if it was mine I would do the brakes anyway as the PO seems a bit of a tit. While you have it apart check that the brake hoses are not stretched or cracked, if they bulge when you apply the brakes they need to be replaced, I bet they were the originals, if you do decide to replace them buy stainless steel wrapped ones, a bit more expensive but give you a much better feeling brake. Nice job so far keep it up. Something like this Edited October 25, 2015 by slice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted October 25, 2015 Moderator Share Posted October 25, 2015 the cheapest hoses were from wezmoto on ebay.glad your getting onmto the bike, its always more satisfying doing and learning by yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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