Airhead

is the air filter in place and intact, is it dry...dou you lightly oil them on these bikes?

Positively 'Gleaming'

Your bike doesnt have a low speed coil or a high speed coil...just a 'source' coil and a pulser coil for the ignition...and a lighting/charging coil for the electricals. I reckon you just need to sort out the carb for tickover, it may be only the screw settings if you're lucky. Try screwing in the throttle stop adjuster screw to achieve an idle (clockwise)

Thats interesting, something else to tinker with so sort the coils and then compare the idle with and without the cover several times to see if that was a fluke or if it's repeatable...I'm off now fettler

dont see much of you these days Jim but its always good to read your input

OK then, youre happy with the bearings, there's no play. I'm happy with the seating of the rotor taper, it comes off with a bang. All you can do then is 1: give all the magnets a wiggle, they're all tight arent they? 2: Dress the iron core of any coil at the point where the tipex is rubbed off, use a file to just remove a little of the material, you can see the evidence, it has left a burr on the edge of the core hasnt it....Just dress it a little at that area....proper fettling

so if the bearins are fine as you say, there can only be one other possibility answer this when you screw in your flywheel puller bolt it should tighten up solid then 'BANG' the bolt breaks the taper and you pull the flywheel off by hand...how's yours?

Greetings Deano, more cats straying onto the forums

you can post youtube videos, or the links to them. You can probably do it by other means but I'm not sure fettler

Mark always suspect the side stand switch connection, so someone shorted the wires together...is it a quality job still? How about you see your son gets this safety device working again?, people can have some nasty accidents riding with stands down...thats why they introduced this feature

lol, not seen anyone else in here with a yp, think you'll be either muddling through or taking it in to a shop!

nice, always liked the TDM900

Greetings Damien, never ridden a maxi scoot but they dont hang about do they

Sounds amazing, have you been in there, do they do public tours? Good luck with mod 2 part 2 T/cat...superb bike

'Atlanta Fettler'

aye lad get fettling

Stick around unk, maybe keep us posted with your own thread in 'projects', Be nice to see a couple of before shots to open it up?

Greetings Unk, hope it's not junk!

I take it you removed the flywheel? Use the kickstart to move the crank 90 degrees intervals, use the keyway as a guide and test it each position Tell you what elsie, I've never seen a cleaner one she looks new.

Thats great news Sam I thought you were in for a bit of an ordeal there, good job you had a welder and I'm glad you though of a way and it paid off

If the crank bearing is done for, maybe the seal behind the magneto will leak a little because of the movement up and down...this could give poor running? waddya think?

you shouldnt be able to feel any movement at all, I presume you need new crank bearings it's possibly this that has caused that groove and the noise you are hearing. Perhaps you can prove this by painting the edges of the coils with something like tipex correction fluid, re-assembling and run it again notice if you still hear the noise, and pull the flywheel off again and see if the correction fluid coating has been worn away? To attach pictures, upload them to your photobucket account and copy the img tags, then paste into your post

my compter's old and fragile, I have a job to look at the picture links (i'd rather look at pictures!) anyway, did I see a groove in one of the magnets and burring on the edge of the source coil?...how do you think that came about???

Andrew I think his switch has been removed, can you tell him what colour the wires are on the switch?

first thing is a ticking off, you shouldnt have snapped the bolt your inexperience and rough handedness has given you a difficult problem to solve right now, learn from this I dont see any way other than sawing through the bolt at the other side, then the engine can be removed and you'll have to get the threaded part out of the frame, the shaft will punch through the engine I suppose