.jpg.6e6eb167e0a6dff4733f27bedaf16390.jpg)
Airhead
-
Posts
13,978 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
72
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Yamaha Racing News.
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Classifieds
Everything posted by Airhead
-
does it look the same?...try it so are you fitting the float the right way up? when it's the right way up it cannot drop so far down that the needle dislodges and jams up? fit it the wrong way and this CAN happen
-
you can easily see the correct way, the float valve will have made a little shiny mark on the brass tang of the float arm
-
Try giving the carb a few taps with the stock of a hammer, may be jammed. or If you had the floats out, you may have put them back upside down!
-
Heres a kit, it shows the spacers for both the rear damper and the front forks
-
squeeze an over oiled foam filter between clean pages of newspaper it will soak up the excess
-
dont understand what you were saying?
-
just fold up newspaper between the eng and carb, drain slowly and it will soak it up
-
not familiar with that, look at the pic I posted...thats a drain plug and has 17mm AF spanner size, it has nothing to do with the brass spigot/ktube, that's an overflow
-
dont forget, little or no throttle when starting
-
How small...17mm AF ?
-
dont worry about a 1cm air bubble, when it starts you can pull the oil pump cable at the engine and it will open the pump fully and soon fill that gap sounds like your choke circuit is blocked, there is a small orifice at the bottom of the tube in the carb float bowl...poke it clear
-
115 psi is good enough I'd say...so the plug is dry even though you tried many times to start it with choke on?
-
Yep thats what I was thinking too slice...
-
so after repeated failed starting attempts with the choke ON, remove the sparkplug and it should be wet with gas...is it?
-
It's been so long I've forgot, try easing the lever so you feel the compression...ease it a bit further then go for it
-
the bike needs to be upright on its wheels for the sight glass
-
Course you have a choice, clean it best you can rinsing it out with diesel several times and take a chance with it together, or split it...youre choice, Its an easy engine to work on though and the experience will be good for you. There are special tools for Flywheel removal Clutch basket nut removal/re-fitting Crank pinion nut removal/re-fitting Engine casing splitting
-
are you going to split this engine down mcf?
-
yeah rock the bike back and forth and move the lever gently, you'll find neutral that way
-
I dunno but the original yamaha equipment was probably sold as two seperate items as a guess, maybe the throttle cable for one item and the splitter and two cables and the other? sometimes you can get aftermarket parts but I find them a bit dodgy, sometimes the oil pump cable isnt the right length! anyway until you have some evidence there is something wrong with yours why are you considering changing it? take it off and check it's all moving freely, lubricate it etc
-
sometimes called TTR600RE, either way google shows up many many hits
-
the cable has a 'splitter' so one cable pulls on the carb slide (throttle) and the other regulates the oil pump
-
an easy test of the LH seal is get the motor to where it's racing and shouldnt be spray WD40 through the slots in the magneto flywheel, aim at the seal does the engine speed/noise change much?...if it does the seal needs replacing
-
Thats a new one on me, dual throttles are normally one cable pulling and one pushing to operate the pulley that some carbs are fitted with
-
Hey jeff, might be throttle cable routing, might be crank seal...might be both?
.jpg.6e6eb167e0a6dff4733f27bedaf16390.thumb.jpg.c2d8f053e6a294f4d70a79bd2bdaa623.jpg)
