Airhead

What facility does the bike have for cold starting, starter jet? choke? are these working? Also have you tried to bump start it?

Come on, give him a break, after all he only said he joined the other site posted a load of stuff got no replys then found us and he's happy...So whats wrong with that?

Me too, and check to see if it needs a rebore.

Theres a manual on ebay Here There will be an electric circuit diagram in there

So he wasnt a police biker who was testing the performance of his bike and "Honing his skills" then? Isnt it funny that stunts like this give us all a bad name, yet when it happens in a car, the same doesnt apply!

Double post http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php...amp;#entry61098 But were singing the same song

Good to hear that azza, enjoy your bike and take care on it and of it!

Glad to hear you got it sorted BS, might be a bit of blowback through the reed valve at those high revs, I think this could possibly introdue a bit of back pressure that could cause the overflow, and anyway since youre after max performance why not fit some boyesen reeds...Or of course as you have said it might be vibration thing with the float valve

Can you post pictures of the plug caps?

Yes, they will slice the plug so its level with the inside of the tyre and patch over it, I had it done on a Suzuki Bandit and it worked fine until the tyre wore out. The tyre bay people will advise you if for some reason they dont think its safe, as they can see it and we cant!

Why not take them out and take them to a bearings wholesaler such as BSL, they will have numbers on them.

Yep

BTW Your post is for a 175MX and your bikes owned is a 125MX

You will need to buy a half wave rectifier diode now, on the schematic it shows a flat plate 'selenium' rectifier, Those were the days

You need to put a bigger jet in with that Gianelli pipe fitted, its less restrictive than the original one, standard jet is a 130, you would be wise to buy the next two sizes up, i think thats a 135 and a 140. I would put the 140 in first and plug chop it. You would be wise to get Stan Stevens to do the work rather than do it yourself, if you do...let me know how it goes, i considered doing it myself but havent got around to it.

Have you seen This post? You need to increase the main jet size, what size have you got fitted? You could also try a set of Boyesen reeds

Personally i would only use a standard piston in a standard bore and a +0.25mm piston in a first bore, again with the correct rings

Not familiar and without pics will have to guess, so a guess it is...Slacken off the wheel nut and using an allen key, turn the adjusters clockwise just a little, move each one by the same amount. A little adjustment makes a big difference so dont overdo it. Check for correct chain slack and re tighten wheel nut, replace splitpin as necessary

A big HELLO from me to another new one

Go to Ebay, search for rxs100 tank then save this search, Ebay will email you when one comes along.

Is it a 1964 YJ2, if it is Look Here Use the Zoom in button

but as my mom used to say, if it's pointless then why bother? If you think that the chunk of rust you have seen is the auto advance unit, then it is extremely likely that this is the sole cause of your problem, having said that!...I dont know for sure myself, am just guessing and trying to remember back in the days that all ignitions had points. You need to remove this and leave it to soak overnight in some easing oil, or WD40, or even diesel oil, give it a good clean up, . They work on the principle of centrifugal force which pulls out the bob weights against spring tension, this then turns the points cam slightly which advances the ignition. As you can see its important that this functions properly and pivots and cam are not seized with rust Once you have done this and got it working, Re assemble and put the flywheel back. Look on the magneto flywheel and you may see two marks. lines One will be TDC and can be verified by removing the spark plug and holding a pencil or something so that you can feel TDC, you will see that this lines up with another mark somewhere on the crankcase. The other of the two lines is the point of ignition ie 1.8mm BTDC, the points (contact breaker) should just begin to open at this mark. The easiest way to test is to use a strobe light. You will need to power your strobe light from a car 12V battery though as you DT is 6v. Run the engine in a dark area and look if the lines match up, if you then rev the engine you will see the effect of the auto advance unit in operation.

Welcome to the forum David

Well if the worst vice is advice you better ignore this The ignition timing is 1.8mm BTDC The throttle stop screw is merely a way of adjusting the engine idle speed (tickover) and should be set to about 1500rpm Since this bike has not got electronic ignition it might have a mechanical advance unit on the points cam. If it has you need to check it is functioning correctly and not jammed in the full advance position as this would cause the kick back you describe The magneto flywheel locates on a woodruff key so cant be put on wrong and in any case it would not affect the timing even if it was

If there isnt much tread left then scrap it, But if there is you could have it plugged and patched over from the inside at yor local tyre bay.