Airhead

Well the valves may well be closed but something's getting past it to blow the carb off its mount so it must be passing very badl. Can you spin the motor with the killswitch on, if it blows off it must be the compressed gasses that are doing this. From TDC on the problem cylinder with both valves closed if you turn the engine in its normal direction then the first valve to open should be exhaust, can you confirm this.

My god, the more this goes on the more i'm confused, when did a 2nd engine appear, which engine are we working on? because if its got points it will need a working auto advance unit wont it? What's a collar on the flywheel? Any flywheel should need a puller to remove if its on a tapered shaft My head hurts Think i'll get my driveway gravelled ok i've had a little lie down...Taken my medication, And read this post again! Looks to me like youve got this bike and the previous owner ko'd the engine so along came another engine from ebay (Turd engine) From what you say about this, this turd's a lemon and have my doubts it will ever work as it is So...... a - Can we fix the 75 engine? b - Can we use the flywheel and auto advance and any other gubbins from the 75 engine to sort out the lemon turd engine?

Sound like youve got a serious leak through an inlet valve, i dont know the bike or how many cylinders it has, but does it only do it on one cyl? Obviously its that one thats leaking, as the compressed gasses hit the closed slide on the carb in question it blows the carb off its mount

Hi Charly, welcome to the forum.

What blows back through the carbs, is it smoke, is it firing, Have you checked is it sparking?

Come on Ted, The suspense is killing me.

Every year i put my Bandit away for winter and every spring its like this, will only run and idle with a little choke, blip the throttle and it dies. All i do is warm it up properly then its 'Right as Ninepence' could this be the same? Might be wise to check your plug gaps as well, It they're too big it wont help.

Been reading through this thread again, you really need to say a bit more, unless i missed it i cant remember if you did actually say this bike has points (contact breaker), I just kind of assumed that with the age of it, so has it got points and a cam that operates them?, Photo might be useful too !

Is this the full story, one day all was well and then this the next day,?

There are tank sealing kits available Heres one I cant comment on how good they are as ive never used one, theres probably more than this one, just google Motorcycle tank seal or repair

Looks similar to a Triumph Tiger Cub frame, tried to post a pic but not allowed?... Anyone else had probs?

Mikey, With all the rain weve had lately I would check for water in the carb float bowl and the filter bowl on the fuel tap if it has one.

And NO you cant get one for a DTR125

Unless i'm mistaken, its a two stroke engine and the oil you are changing is only used in the gearbox and clutch. There will be no oil filter fitted as these are only on four stroke engines. There will either be a dipstick at the filling point or a sight glass on the side of the engine case with high and low level markers on it. Because your bike has no centre stand you will need to hold it up straight when checking the oil level. If it is a dipstick, you generally dont screw it down to test the level. Havent you got the manual? It may show you in there!

So thats taking it easy?? The insurance companies charge so much because of inexperienced riders like you coming unstuck with ther "accidental wheelies" round the block. You wont last long riding like that !

Well done on passing your test, great bikes them R6's, may you have many years of fun on it, and take it easy while you gain experience.

Ignore what i said, I didnt realise you already had a rectifier, when you wire it up and start the bike, check across the battery terminals to verify that it's charging ok.

You can get problems like this when the engine is cold and the spark plug gaps are a bit too wide, ...an easy one to check there.

lets start with the bike not running, with the ignition off take off the connector from the headlamp and using a multimeter on continuity find out which connector is ground and verify that it is a low resistance to the ground or metal parts of your frame etc, or your battery neg connecion. were looking for almost a dead short, make sure that it stays the same in both high/low beam switch positions. Next turn on ignition and switch your meter to measure DC12v and with switch in high beam, measure from the socket terminal you know to be ground to each of the other socket terminals, you will get 12v at one of them as you know the high beam is working. Switch to low beam and repeat to verify if youre getting 12v at the one remaining socket term to your ground, according to your symptoms you wont be getting this, if this is so we'll take it from there. Tip..If you cant get your meter probes into the socket to make a good contact, then unwrap a paperclip that is small enough to shove into the socket terminal and measure to that. Hope i'm not telling you how to suck eggs with this! Have you seen this post?

When i painted mine, I went to my local motor factors shop. They had several books of colour charts, Trawled through these and found a pretty good match. They then mixed me the paint in aerosol and also bought a clear laquer coat, Heres the result The tank is original, so you can judge the match for yourself

So with the engine running, if you switch main beam on, engine dies instantly What happens with engine running and dipped headlamp? With engine not running do both dipped and main beams work ok? On the diagram, it shows the bike has no headlight on /off switch, so they are permanently on this agrees with what you stated in your initial post, that they are as you said "running lights", According to the diagram the only time they go off (Whether dipped or main beam) is when the starter button is being pressed, Which does make sense as maximum power from the battery would be needed to turn the engine.

You could do with giving it to a good engineer to have a look at, do you know anyone who works in an engineering workshop or garage etc. Where are you BTW?

Sounds like the fuel is not getting through' take off the pipe from the carb and verify a good fuel flow from the tap

Hard luck Mikey sorry to hear that, we know its the nerves that make us do things wrong, good luck next time and at least you know the drill now

When bumpstarting try a fairly steep hill, get someone to assist put bike in 3rd gear, choke on, fuel tap on, crack the throttle only slightly (It wont start with fistfulls of throttle), build up some speed and dump the clutch...Hey Away she goes... (I hope)