Airhead

Absolute bollox G man, you just dont get it do you, the new chain fits the new sprockets perfectly, Youre exagerating on chain adjustment every ride...maybe second ride... but there again you dont lube your chain, just WD40 it so perhaps its true in your case... The worn chain still fits the equally worn sprocket perfectly, when it doesnt fit is when new meets worn

Thats a very valid point, now thats cleared up can I add that if I had lots of money and lost of space (Neither of which is true)....I would like one of those too, Love the retro look

Is there a glass window on the side of the casing, If so fill it half way in the window, engine stopped, vertical on its wheels.

Hi Dom youre new so welcome to the forum, lets see some pictures then! Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum BTW if its a 175, it will say in the cylinder casting 171cc, somewhere on the side if memory serves me correct

How do you know that then G man?, you mean because they looked ok? Lets make a few assumptions here, A new chain has 12.00mm between its roller centres, a new sprocket has 12.00mm betwee the leading and the trailing edges of its teeth...So everything fits perfectly! Now when the chain wears the 12.00mm between its rollers becomes 12.05mm and the sprocket wears at the same rate, (Although it still looks Fine to the eye)ie 12.05 between its leading and trailing edges. So if you now replace that chain there will be only one roller touching one tooth on the sprocket, the next roller along will miss the tooth by 0.05mm, further up 0.1mm and so on. Because this 'New' chain is putting all the power through one roller it rapidly wears until it has worn to 12.05mm between rollers, at which point the wear rate will slow down as the chain comes into contact with the other teeth and shares the load again. End of story, Pay now!!

You didnt state this but I assume you were stationary with the engine off. If so it is usually quite difficlt selecting all the gears unless you rock the bike back and forth.

Theres one Right Here Vijay

Yes nice, What kind of Yamaha did you say it was??

They all smoke a bit, how bad is it?

Does this help? Linky

You must have mis-interpreted my advice, hope it mends soon, i'm sure the nurses will take care of your every need..

No its all been a BIG mistake, HEeeelp...Call them off or i'll sue

Hi and welcome, Not familiar with the bike, But I'm wondering if the white oil you say is oil/water emulsion, could be cylinder head gasket. Is it a watercooled bike and can you see any oil in the coolant expansion tank?

Wasnt me your honour...Never said anything Hmm well what a surprise...NOT

Wow, have you got a firearms licence for that exhaust?

Yes you will need a valve spring compressor, gather all your bits and pieces first, valve seals, lapping paste, sucker thingy for lapping valves, valve spring compressor, etc, not done any of this kind of stuff since i was a kid, so ask others for tips. You might find info on internet, or workshop manuals etc

Everything has a part number, get your dealer to order one for you, (its a 2004 bike, so wont be discontinued)

No its the other way round, larger front sprocket = Faster top end, (Except the engine hasnt got the power to pull it ) Smaller front sprocket = Faster acceleration and slower top end

So if you do decide to change the seals on the valves, You will no doubt find the exhaust valves very dirty and carbonised from all this burned oil so you will need to remove and clean them. Also gently lap in any valves ypu work on!

Quick answer is, ..Have a look on the casting near the fear lever, sometimes you will find something like 1-N-2-3-4-5 etc Soungs like the clutch plates need replacing!

Ditto the above.

I'm happy using a rucksack to carry my butties (and stuff) in, cheaper than a rack and topbox and dont spoil the look of the bike.

This can be the seals on the exhaust valves, as the exhaust gasses become hotter they start to burn off some of the oil leaking into the exhaust port, but may not burn it all hence the oil in muffler. however I dont thik it is the only problem as this shouldnt make the engine die off, so could be coupled with any one of the other possibilities. On the other hand leaking seal on inlet valves usually cause lots of smoke right from go, becoming less as engine is run so could it be rings and exhaust seals? Edit.. I've been thinking about the dying off and changed my mind there, I think the hot gasses and flames are igniting the oil and the resulting smoke is getting into the cylinder because the exhaust valve is open which is in turn affecting combustion I expect that from cold start there is no mis-firing as at this point the leaking oil is not ignited

I agree with you on that, carburettors are indeed a fascinating invention. I see what you mean about some confusion creeping in with the two needle's youve mentioned Regarding your float needle, Its important that you set your float height correctly using a vernier caliper is the best way. Having done that you should never see any overflow, If you do you will need to replace the float needle valve and possibly the seat too. If fuel level in the bowl is too high it richens the mixture causing excessive fuel consumption and poor running. On the other hand, a low level will lean the mixture and could cause flat spots when accelerating out of turns, or in extreme cases cause overhating and possible seizure Regarding the hole in the carb barrel nearest the manifold side...Many carbs have a two hole idle system which gives better low speed and mid range throttle response than the simpler one hole type. At very small throttle openings, the bypass hole and not the pilot hole actually provides the engine with fuel. Instead the pilot hole acts as a supplementary air bleed to further atomise the fuel airafter it passes through the idle jet. As the throttle opens wider, the pilot hole too begins to spray fuel. This serves to supply the engine with additional fuel until the air speed throgh the carb increases enough to start the main jet and needle valve flowing fuel into the engine This is a good book if you really want to unravel those mysteries, .... Performance Tuning in theory and practice Two Strokes A. Graham Bell ISBN 0 85429 329 9 Oh and another thing, Look what I found Here And its in Canada too

You are talking about the cooling fins of an air cooled cylinder and cylinder head, rinse, spray muc off, brush it in and rinse off, much as you are already doing. Also.. Newly painted exhaust