Airhead

Yes very, Why not go to a professional signwriters and have a talk to them, They could make up some vinyl grarhics to change the look and make it individual, can also be removed later,, Its an idea that R1evad came up with in another post, and a good one too IMO

Hi Jay and welcome to the forum, glad to hear youve been converted, Weve had this post many times before, usually answers from two camps, Camp 1 will say yes too much of a crotch rocket for inexperienced hands, look at something like Fazer etc (im in that camp) Camp 2 will be R6 and R1 Owners who will say go for it, just like they did and never had any problems! In the end you'll be none the wiser and will no doubt do what you think is right for you. Take care on them fast bikes mind!

G man, as i said earlier I personally use WD40 sprayed on a rag to clean my chain then Lube it, I will get a lot of mileage from my chain by looking after it this way (20,000 i expect), and if ive still got the bike when it eventually wears out I will be happy to replace both chain and sprockets, BTW I dont give a toss if you think this is wrong, or dummy proof, no thinking...No wonder people ignore you

Like the air pressure idea Olli, good if youve got access to compressed air, maybe even able to do that with a cheap car tyre inflater

For now then, try to find a smaller front, I would just go for 1 tooth less if you can find one

Thats exactly what I forgot to say in my post, I use BBQ paint, its good for 425C, Wilkinsons sell it, made by plasti-kote.

Hello Andrew, Welcome to the forum, Good to see youre back on two wheels Hope you dont forget how to ride though!

Hello and welcome Davey, And well done for the rescue mission, many wouldnt have bothered or would have wrecked it as a so called ' Field bike' Hats off to ya mate!

Yes you need to remove it and give it a rub down with emery or wet & dry depending how bad the rust is, degrease it with something like a wipe down with white spirit, let dry and spray. You will need to do it fairly frequently because riding in our climate with all the rain we get makes short work of exhaust paints. heres mine I painted this year

You could PM ReBorne, Tell him I sent you, He's got a FZ400RL (Could be similar)...Not seen him here for a while

Hello and welcome JGP, Youre in good company mate, only ive still got my trailie

Theres only one way, take them apart, find someone to do it for you, No short cuts with this one!

Hi, not trying to be sarcastic, but its usually obvious, underneath the engine.

Paul you will need to go smaller on the front to accelrate faster, or bigger on the back, Problem with bigger on the back is your chain might not fit unless you buy a full chain and sprocket kit, which might be your best bet...How worn is your present one?

Maybe the chain you saw was a cam chain, Dont know the bike but possible, They are still used. Go to the rear sprocket and at the furthest point at the rear of the sprocket, try to pull back the chain from the sprocket, There shouldnt be much movement here, If there is youre looking at new chain and sprockets to fix!

I do as FZ6 Geoff S2 will agree (last sunday in Matlock)

Got to take my bike for its MOT (or sea worthiness) tomorrow, Aagh i'm gonna get wet!!!

What happens if you give them some throttle, do they keep going then?

Or go to Wilkinsons and buy some plasti-kote BBQ paint, its good for 425C and cheaper than exhaust paint, although its the same stuff really. Having used many different exhaust paints over the years, I find this is as good as any of them. Have a look at my bike in Gallery to see how it looks, 1979 DT175MX

Havent looked, but you could try Wemoto, or M&P, MPS etc, sometimes these little bikes dont have the cannister type filter, so check your bike before you start trying to find something that doesnt exist, Most important things are bulbs all working, oil change (Filter?), Brake shoes/Pads, chain and sprocket condition, Brake fluid change (If disks)

Just found this on another forum, Never heard of it but I must say I like the idea, Dont know how it fits with your bike though. You know you can change the stem seals without taking the head off dont you. A bit fiddly but it can be done using a bit of polly rope fed down the spark plug hole with both camshafts and plugs removed and the piston still rising feed some polly rope down the plug hole and then gently turn over the engine until it locks up. remove the valve spring by pushing down the valve cap and remove collletts. Hey presto remove old stem seals and replace............very fiddly but a lot cheaper than a new head gasket.

How much do they want for the sump plug then?

This is how you started this thread, And with our experience and knowlege we have given you the answers you wanted However since you are clearly not interested in the answers, but are far more interested in the argument I think you must be either a.) Correct (Making us all incorrect) b.) A wind up merchant (Troll) c.) Stupid My money is on b or c

This is how you started this thread, And with our experience and knowlege we have given you the answers you wanted However since you are clearly not interested in the answers, but are far more interested in the argument I think you must be either a) Correct (Making us all incorrect) A wind up merchant (Troll) c) Stupid My money is on b or c

No No No No No, The point is twofold 1) We adjust slack to stop the chain from jumping off 2) We adjust slack to compensate for wear so we get more use from it all...It does affter all cost money