Airhead

Exhaust baffle would be a good place to start as its one of the routine maintenance operations, you will possible find a hole in the side of the silencer, its an access hole for the screw that holds it in, Remove the screw and the baffle can be twisted side to side as it is withdrawn. If its blocked, use a blowtorch and wire brush to clean it up

Yes its great if you can use your bike for the daily commute, no more stuck in a jam...Magic. Lynne, just get a cheap set of industrial waterproofs (Jacket and overtrousers) over your bike gear and youll be nice n dry. Even our supposedly waterproof bike gear leaks in this weather!

Dunno, sorry wish I did, But check your Battery and fuses first.

Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum

Does sound like choke problem yes, Does the choke knob feel right with a definite two positions to it?

But you still got marital rights yeah? You know you want to!

Jon, Just get one and say someone gave it you

This can happen if vacuum builds in tank, yes!, Can also indicate partially blocking fuel filter, demand is outstripping supply, but if you leave a while carb will fill, can also be something breaking down under temperature on your ignition, you said you checked the coils, check them when it fails!

never miss an opportunity to show of my baby Have a look in Yamaha Gallery for 1979 DT175MX

Might be fuel starvation undo the fuel cap and try again just in case breather is trapped or something, Other suggestion is try on Prime position on fuel tap.

Dont start me off on that one, ive got SAD syndrome

Hi Jon, Welcome to the forum, They look mint, bet theres never a dull moment on them Did you see the article in classic mechanics a not too long ago?

You should always have a little free play in the cable, adjust the cable at the lever untill about 5mm travel at the end of the lever before it starts to pull on the clutch. If this doesnt sort it completely, you may have to adjust the clutch, there is usually a means of doing this, but not familiar with your bike

You need to get your new battery and when you connect it up and start the bike, With a multi meter, measure across the battery terminals using DC Volts range, As you rev the engine you should see the voltage rise to something like 14Volts and then stop there, If it rises continually as the revs increase you may have a problem with the Voltage regulator. Also watch out for any spilled acid in tha battery compartment, it will make short work of eating away at any metal it comes into contact with, especially if it gets wet The electrolyte (sulphuric acid) is highly corrosive and if spilled can cause extensive damage to your Bike, your clothes, your skin and in particular, your eyes. The neutralising agent to be used is a sodium bicarbonate solution (Baking Soda and water).

Yep, more likely to find "more horses" (or part of a horse) this way If you put on a less restrictive filter on, dont go mad with the re jet (Not too big a jump) though, then plug chop to see if its about right!

Hi R12NDS_R6, Where are you moving to then, Theres a few of us up here in NW but dont know of any regular ride meets, Matlock is always popular at weekends yes

Hi BB, Yes after using many different VHT paint specially made for exhausts I have now discovered that BBQ paint made by plasti-kote is just as good, That is what i used and I got it from Wilkinsons, its also much cheaper than exhaust paint and good for 425 C It wont last forever though you will need to remove the exhaust and rub down the rust, clean it give it a wipe down with a lint free cloth with some white spirit to de grease it, let it dry before painting As Exupnutta has said, Back to Black is for plastic, its often used for bumpers on cars, (the ones before they started to paint them)

Hi Venny, Things to check are Tyre pressure is correct specification Steering head bearing is not rough or loose When did it last have fork oil changed, change as necessary Wheel bearings gone Fork stancheons are at correct position in the yokes and yoke bolts correctly tightened Wheel spindle nut correctly tightened

Hello and welcome to the forum Mike, Youve been busy there and done a great job, Pics could do with being a bit bigger though.

Yes very, Why not go to a professional signwriters and have a talk to them, They could make up some vinyl grarhics to change the look and make it individual, can also be removed later,, Its an idea that R1evad came up with in another post, and a good one too IMO

Hi Jay and welcome to the forum, glad to hear youve been converted, Weve had this post many times before, usually answers from two camps, Camp 1 will say yes too much of a crotch rocket for inexperienced hands, look at something like Fazer etc (im in that camp) Camp 2 will be R6 and R1 Owners who will say go for it, just like they did and never had any problems! In the end you'll be none the wiser and will no doubt do what you think is right for you. Take care on them fast bikes mind!

G man, as i said earlier I personally use WD40 sprayed on a rag to clean my chain then Lube it, I will get a lot of mileage from my chain by looking after it this way (20,000 i expect), and if ive still got the bike when it eventually wears out I will be happy to replace both chain and sprockets, BTW I dont give a toss if you think this is wrong, or dummy proof, no thinking...No wonder people ignore you

Like the air pressure idea Olli, good if youve got access to compressed air, maybe even able to do that with a cheap car tyre inflater

For now then, try to find a smaller front, I would just go for 1 tooth less if you can find one