Airhead

Yes fix it with a patch and buy a new tube too then you will have a spare, get some proper levers Here like these

Hey...I got one of them gooses too

Welcome mikey.

Ive never seen that, theres hours of fun to be had there

Pushbike levers are not strong enough you will bend them. Dont forget to tread on the opposite side to where you are levering to get the bead to the middle of the rim, you will need to buy a motorcycle puncture kit (or a new tube)

How come you get all the bad luck then? Taking tyres off is not an easy thing to do and putting them back on is even harder, rather than spend ages explaining i will scan something and email it you, PM me your email addy

You asked this yesterday and i answered!

Many dealers would just sell you the grips without asking, then after you go to the trouble of fitting them (which sometimes means modifying the throttle grip tube) after doing all this you find your battery going flat, seems he did you a favour, perhaps you were lucky he saw your bike after all!

to the forum spiderman

Always nice to get a new bike, lets hope for a great year to ride now eh!

Hello and welcome 'the beast'

Worth a try, they are a massive dealer http://www.fowlers.co.uk/

aye ...but Steve lives there

Are you asking or saying? Have you tried Fowlers?

Plug Type NGK BP - 7ES Plug Gap 0.7 - 0.8mm (0.028 - 0.032in) contact breaker gap 0.3 - 0.4mm (0.012 - 0.016in) The points gap is set at the widest opening. Removing the large plug just left of and below the points reveals the timing mark. The contact breaker points should be set so that they are just opening as the F mark aligns with the pointer

I agree with all of that Darren, but i bought some acerbis ones and couldnt fit them due to the way the electric cables exited the switchgear on my bike, so it's not straightforward that you can use these either, like you say with those others you will only get a bit of weather protection.

They look like poor quality after market ones, i know this because i had them on my DT, they attach by the lever pivot bolt but the pivot bolt is shouldered and is not meant to go through an extra 3mm of plastic so in my case i had some new pivot bolts made. even after doing this i still had to get creative with the saw and knife I may be wrong though as on the link you sent the mounting method cannot be seen!

If there are 2 wires, unplug the connector and check with your multimeter betwee the 2 wires to the switch, STOP = 2 or 3 Ohms, RUN = Open circuit BTW, What are the wire colours?

Welcome Joe

Bend the little tab where the float needle valve sits

How thorough strip down then, are you saying you split the cases and removed the crank? did you put the piecce of ring you retrieved first against the piece you removed from the piston, surely this would have shown if there was any more missing?

You said that 3 days ago? Confused

On the subject of carbs, you may find this useful Here

Maybe the needle jet is worn they can wear oval which will make the bike run rich, have you stripped down the carb and noted the jet sizes and id markings and needle clip settings as is? Examinne the needle jet opening using a magnifying glass and also the needle, look for wear

Nope...Thats definitely a biker....I was in the pub this afternoon "The Shakespeare" at the side of primark, couldnt stop staring in the windows, my mind must have been playing games with me