Airhead

You should get those brakes checked Semi synthetic oil is your best bet, full synthetic can sometimes cause clutch slip

You keep on spending mate, apparently the recession will be over sooner that way

I found a wiring diagram and would think that the high low beam switch is open circuit or has lost its supply, if it doesnt work high or low then look to see if its got a supply (Blue) see Here

Try your nearest Yamaha agent, dont assume its not available. Dont you have any 'Classic' bike spares suppliers in Thailand? you could even try an engineering bearings supplier they will sell oil seals as well.

Its Here Ted ...Paul

Yamagod, is there a manual or a wiring diagram for this 1973 DT100?

Not familiar with the bike, but I would assume the idle speed screw has the spring behind it and the other will be the mixture screw

I suspect the regulator / rectifier, you may find This useful

Looks like an interesting topic here Jason, should make a good horror story eh, Are you planning a full engine split with the cases split, possible bearing replacement?

Usually a good indication that the carb needs a strip and clean, you will probably find the pilot jet is blocked.

Looks nice, who's is it then? Oh and how was the show, meet any members? you didnt let us know

?? You leaving us TS

The oil light is for the two stroke oil you use and not for the gearbox oil. There is a bulb check facility for this warning lamp, if the bulb is ok the lamp will be lit when the bike is in neutral with the ignition switch on. The oil inside the engine is purely for the gearbox and clutch, there will either be a dip stick on the filler cap or a glass window in the clutch case to chech the level there. There is no warning light for this oil level. HTH...Paul If the light ever comes on when not in neutral its time to top up, The oil light came on to warn you to top up, you did that and all is well now.

No I dont think this difference is intentional, doesnt matter which groove you put them in. Cant you see any marks on the inside of the rings caused by this spacer ring (bright spots) that may give a clue as to which ring came from which groove, have a look with a magnifying glass.

Check your jet sizes, Main jet should be 150, Pilot jet should be 50, If youre worried, you could always fit the next size main jet, it certainly wont do any harm while you run in the re bore, when youre happy with it being run in you could plug chop it later.

Maybe the tractor didnt like the look of you Halhark, glad to hear you got away with this one, Take care out there!

They are bothe the same on the 175MX, place the thin spreader ring under ring 2

Halfords? B&Q? Wickes? Screwfix? Car spares outlet? Engineering supplies merchant? Bike shop? Take the short one with you to compare

Blackhat's a country boy as well, but when you ask him about it he gets all sheepish Here are some of his 'Mates'

is This any use Ogri from Here

Are theses any good donny Hereand Here

Thats a good point and the NOS parts for these bikes are very expensive, on the other hand people get pleasure from turning A into B, I think if nothing else you should get that engine sorted and painted up nice and possible paint the tank guards and exhaust, a good job can be done with rattle cans at little expense when it comes to painting.

Unplug the wires from the stand switch, shove an old piece of wire in to the connectors that were plugged on to the switch and try again, this will tell you if the switch is faulty, if it works like this with the switch bypassed then you need a new switch I suppose

Hi Peter, welcome to the YOC forum. Just had a look on the m&p web site Here They do 102 degree plug caps with 70mm drop, they dont mention the resistance though so you will have to check with them but I think 10kOhms is pretty standard. they do two types depending on your plug size so watch out which one you choose. They're only £3.50 each

Hi synroro, ive overcome my shyness, so its a big HELLO from me, welcome to the YOC