Airhead

(Moderator mode ON) Wind your neck in newby.

Have we met???

I think you mean Rectifier...

Hi Harry and welcome to the forum.

Hi Andy, have you tried Wemoto? ...Paul

Welcome to the forum HM125...

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its not very scientific but you could seal the plug hole with your thumb, you should be unable to stop the gas escaping, better still borrow a gauge, where are you? BTW do the test with open throttle

I would fit the new conenser and do a compression test as the next steps

wet sand the black you have done until smooth, then spray with clear laquer use the fuel resistant type. then leave that to cure for a couple of weeks, then T - Cut them using a damp rag and small circular actions for a good result.

This is why its best not to open multiple threads about the same problem, all fixed now...Here

Sounds like clutch drag due to your oil being cold, as the motor warms up the oil becomes thinner and you have less drag, try revving the bike a little with the clutch pulled, then let the revs die off again and select your gear.

a vacuum tap will have two pipes on it (for your single cylinder bike), One is the fuel feed to the carb and the other is a vacuum line and this connects somewhere on the carb manifold. As the engine is running there will be a vacuum developed in the manifold, this vacuum is used to open the fuel tap by operating on a diaphragm within the tap, therefore unlike the basic old tap you dont have to switch the tap to Off position when not using the bike. so if your tap has a line to the manifold its a vacuum tap...if it is I cannot say if it can be stripped as I havent done one, but if ther are screws to undo, then why not drain the tank and have a go, be slow and careful there may be a spring or other bits and pieces in there that you wouldnt want to lose! If you are really frightened of tackling the carb, you could have a word with mervin, he may strip, set the float height and ultrasonic clean your carb for a nominal fee...

With the choke on if cold or the fast idle button pressed if hot, you pull in the valve lifter and depress the kickstart until a little white mark appears in a sight window located on the end of the camshaft. When the mark appears and the valve lifter released with the ignition on give the beast a swift kick...voilla!.....

Ernie, its a used regulator, maybe its no good! I have described how to check it...

Dont worry about it, just give it a spray with WD40, the leads arent usually replaceable any how, they are an integral part of the ignition coil.

is the tap a vacuum operated one? if so maybe theres some foreign body got under the seating...this coupled to a float needle valve thats passing = overflow...

Hi MAS, check the kill switch isnt on, if thats ok try a new plug, if that fails to spark disconnect the black / white from the Ignition coil and with a multimeter check that it isnt down to earth there. ...Paul

???? Because Yamaha only had to make a bike that would do 30mph tops, thats just not fast enough for a young lad with blood in his veins...

Hi Brandon, maybe the headlight and tail light's are in fact running lights and so will be on all the time the bike is ridden! Just a thought...It's not uncommon.

you cant do the big end yourself, its a specialist job and needs pressing equipment and fine measuring equipment, there are firms out there that will check and rebuild cranks, look in CMM magazine...

Welcome to the forum Nathan

Sometimes its worth a squirt of oil through the spark plug hole, this aids compression on a bike that has been standing...

Just a few more pics of the bikes there.

I went in the end, rode down with drewpy and the others from part way, there was loads of the usual old relics there but one was missing...