Airhead

That just about covers it, make sure the kill switch is OFF if it has one, I would be checking it sparks first too. ...Paul I think the battery wont be needed as it will be for horn / lights / indicators

uk? Factory parts..Granby or Fowlers TY Trials Yambits Ebay Wemoto That'l do for starters. Youre gonna have to get canny with the computer though...

The only oneyou could get'spillage' from is the overflow and making that more difficult is defeating the object, it would then overflow into the engine! so the short answer is no

wow what an intro...welcome to the forum ...Paul

1 is the float bowl vent, 2 is the float bowl overflow. Like you say connect an open ended tube on them and run it down between the swing arm pivot and the back of the engine.3 is as stated a breather for the transmission, treat the same as the others. ...Paul

The answer to posting pictures is in the FAQ's section

it no doubt is, change it or risk it?? up to you

Hmmm,,,tut,,,tut....tut...tut! Well where do i start. I hate to have to be the one to break this news miss nets ,,,,but, youve got one of the worst bikes Yamaha ever produced there, they have been known to break up previously happy loving family units because the mortgage payments werent being met and the acces through the back door was blocked with old sparking plugs,,,take a word of advice from me...sell it, sell it real quick!!! How much will you take by the way...

Hahaha,

Mines a 1979, first regisrered in 83...it happens!

What about the same size back one then?

Hi Ronald Just make sure that the pulley is working fine as you twist the throttle, Now you have proved your pump is working if i were you i would drain the fuel premix and give it back to the kx, personally i prefer the pumps they really are quite reliable and a look now and again if the cable and pulley are working ok is all you need to do. As for the noise its always difficult to comment without witnessing it, maybe it needs a rebore, a compression test would be a good idea, it might just need new rings though, there are gap tests for these in the workshop manuals.

Pull the oil pipe from the carb, hold the pulley on the pump at max when the engine is idling, this allows the pump to stroke at maximum and you will see if its pumping ok. ...Paul

How about a photo or two then? You might find this useful Here ...Paul

lmao..welcome back DirtyDT

The two plug head. When new one of the plug holes would have had a blanking plug in it, there was an optional extra de-compression kit available that fitted into this hole, I guess it would have been quite handy out on the trail when descending steep loose surfaces as it would have given some engine braking. as for the clutch its quite probable that your plates have worn out if you are getting clutch slip, you will have to check them with a micrometer or vernier against specifications. Apparenty the screw were all talking about is indeed an adjuster in your case. loosen the cable from the lever and turn that screw until there is just a little free play at the operating arm then do up the locknut. As i said earlier check your cable isnt stiff or frayed. ...Paul

Try cillit bang..removes almost anything...

Uk? have you tried fowlers or granby?

Place a piece of pipe just larger then the pivot pin between the frame and something solid (a wall), this will take the flex out of the frame and your effort may be rewarded more!

Sent you a copy of DT400 diagram, see if it compares, I reckon it will be close enough. ...Paul

To add to what nayruf said, the key can be removed in the off position (and the parking lights position), I dont think yours has a parking lights position as you stated only three

Exhaust still available Here

That picture is causing some problem, normally if it were an adjuster there would be a locking nut also. However did you check out the cable? a fraying or old and rusty cable will have this affect

They dont look too keen to go up the ramp me thinks...

now theres an idea