Airhead

Greetings Dale

Yep a great idea, thanks for pointing it out Woody Pinned...Paul

I suppose not, a beginner may have difficulty even removing a screw that is jammed before you rush into that do the fuel flow test and check for a good spark, to do that remove the spark plug then fit it back into the plug cap and rest it onto the cylinder head while you kick the engine over with the ignition on...watch for a spark (keep your fingers away...it hurts)

Do you really think its woth the effort, whats wrong with the drum, its a brake after all and out on the trail will lock up easy enough if you stand on the pedal! dont forget you will have all sorts of issues with mounting the caliper and the hydraulic master cylinder etc. I doubt you will get an answer as to if anyone ever did this either

Why, whats on it now...a drum? is it worth the aggro?

Hmmm the problem is that if the chain is worn out then so may the sprockets be...have you ever put a new bicycle chain on a worn out sprocket set? I have and it jumps like crazy...good luck though ...Paul

Welcome to the forum Nick. I had mine done a few years ago, they look great but I'm not happy now and wish i'd had my original rims re chromed...to the point that i've since bought some old wheels with the intention of doing just that. PM me your email address I will send you a scanned article on wheel building.

Welcome 'bikedog' First pull off the fuel pipe from the carb and verify that there is a good flow of fuel, then replace it try again (use choke). Failing this check for spark and if ok then perhaps youre looking at a carb strip / clean ...Paul

Surprisedat the low mileage, but sounds like valve seals to me, the trouble with modern four into one systems is you can't identify which cyl / cylinders are the culprit.

Great pics Drewpy, was a great morning out and after the week weve had it was nice to see the weather brighten up briefly. Will definately do it again and recommend it to anyone near enought to make the trip. Littledave, I made a donation on your behalf...Thanks http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm116/oldgitonabike/Shows%20and%20Events/Sally%20Army%20Toy%20Run%2011_07_2009/?action=view&current=100_1292.flv

Try some oil Kev No...DONT!

Greetings Ryan, thats an odd place to park the bike.

Thats just sooo much better than our Foamy films

You will see Here that you have a DT125LC3 86 - 88 ...Paul

Does the fuel tap have a 'PRIME' position, if so try that for a while. ...Paul

Great link

If you do opt for the two pin variety, just leave the black wire that went to the original relay disconnected, dont ground the two pin relay.

Y'know though Sean, my bike (DT175MX) only has the two wires, a brown 6v supply and a Br/W output to the switch and lamps, dont see why that wont work on yours, it doesnt use a chassis connection.

Welcome Rich

There is only one ground (chassis) connection on the 3 pin relay, the black wire. The brown is a +6v feed and the Br/W is the output feed to power the lamps. ...Paul

Yeah, like nervously stable

is there no 'Big' fuse that protects the lot? have you checked your handbook?

is the petcock a vacuum type and if so is the vac line connected propery to the manifold, as has been said...sounds like an air leak....

Still shouldnt overflow though, a petcock left on 'Prime' is the same as a pre vac operated petcock in 'ON' position.

Greetings cloudy