Airhead

Read this topic http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rg06-regulator-1325-0.html

ok, i dont suppose i'll ever get to see this resistor it does get a mention in a Haynes manual though but not for your 175A...bolted to the frame down tube. If it is in the loom I would think there would be a fair old bump where it resides I would consider a regulator connected between the light switch feed (blue)and battery negative if it were me...an ac regulator that is. http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rg06-regulator-1325-0.html

Thanks, sure enough that is a rectifier, sorry I was expecting something bigger when you mentioned heat sink. well you may as well do the bulb test with that then. Next thing is there any sign of a resistor...bolted the the frames down tube? Also check your bulb voltages and wattages are correct,

Yes a picture would be good, the rectifier as far as i know is quite small, no particular heat sink and a couple of flat blade connectors, like it is on my bike.

Any chance of a photo before you cover it up again? so did you check this with your diode test too?

Now youve got me wondering, there is no heat produced by a rectifier unless it is being used as a current shunt to ground, thereby acting as a regulator (a zenor diode) so is this the regulator then?

That is without question a doide then, and furthermore a fully functioning one. I wonder about this resistor, i'm beginning to doubt it exists. That diode is in your case a rectifier, is there another more familiar one on that bike or is this the bike's rectifier? this topic is bearing a lot of similarity to the other one on here at the moment(DT360)

166k is not going to reduce any voltage at all youre right. Acts as a diode though...lets prove that theory, hook it up in series with a light bulb across the battery terminals, then reverse it. if it is a diode and is working the bulb will light one way only,

Hey thanks for the pic, i've been wondering what these look like. can you give me a more detailed description of where this resistor was connected to, I assume one side was to chassis or negative wire. And the other? Measure the resistance of it to see what it comes out at...let us know.

The bulb may not work as its a flymag ignition. Have a look around the circumference of the flywheel, you just might see 3 lines scribed on it. Now take the plug out and stick a pencil down to the piston. turn the flywheel to find TDC, then back off (clockwise i think) the flwheel around 1.5 - 2.0mm. Now IF you did find the marks I said...at this point you will see a mark on the crankcase to align the middle scribed line to...this is the point at which the contact breaker should open. Some people use cigarette papers to do this, trap one in the points and turn the flywheel until the paper is released, adjust this to co-incide with the alignment of the marks........i'm rambling ...Paul

I didnt think these bikes actually had a regulator...only a rectifier. in fact the regulation is so basic that excess voltage is sunk by the battery, if tou have a bad battery...or disconnect ther battery on these bikes you get the same problem. Cosequently batteries and electrolyte levels need to be well maintained and rectifiers need to be working correctly. Also drawings and circuits were basic for these bikes. http://www.slimduck.com/rt1360_wiring.htm http://www.slimduck.com/rt2360_wiring.htm ...Paul

Reading between the lines the problem could just be a slow fuel feed to the carb, there may be a gauze in the fuel tap bowl, or one within the fuel tank itself. pull off the pipe from the carb and run fuel into something...you should have a good flow not a drip...IF it is slow look at the gauzes. Tip lots of these old school bikes had a screw on bowl under the tap, DONT use a spanner and risk rounding it off ...soft metal, use a six sided socket to remove this (usually 10mm) and dont forget there may be one in the tank too if the one in the bowl doesnt cure it.

haha Bertie, its nice to see you enjoying your little bike so much. welcome to the forum ...Paul

Runs with choke but not without, sounds like pilot jet blocked or partially blocked, could do with a thorough carb clean and blow out with compressed air to be sure. Clutch plates stuck, may require stripping dowwn but sometimes if you can get the engine running properly and nice and hot then they may free up. Get engine hot, stop engine select a high gear, pull in clutch and push the motorcycle along. worth a try before pulling the clutch cover off. A transmission oil change is also highly recommended.

Hah...a traffic cop with a sense of humour...must be made up

Try Wemoto

Yeah ...wasnt seriously expecting you'd get another XJR1300...a superb bike. I think 'Gas up - Lets go' has one

You need to get that battery re-charged. Worst case you need a new one i'm sure the bike will be fine after that, choke on, no...or just a touch of throttle £400 for an MOT , thats incredible, think twice about going there again. Now the brake lights popping, that sounds like regulator / rectifier trouble, but sort the battery first and tackle that one next if so.

What can i say...for that price its probably worth it for the needle valve and bowl gasket alone. I bought a kit once and a word of warning, take it easy with the air mixture screw...the one i bought seemed tight in the thread so i didnt force it,,,or fit it for that matter. paid a lot more than that too.

Kishan...Wilkinsons stores...BBQ paint made by Plasti-kote, get it painted, it will transform you bike looks.

Dont forget the circular gasket for under the valve seat

Hey kev...a DT125R, not had so much fun in ages mate and i can only just touch the floor

Does the engine just cut out, Or does the bike lurch forward and the engine stalls ?

Welcome sky, great looking bike you have there It will take some time to wear the gloves in as had been said, to make that time go faster just ride the bike more, they say time flies when your'e enjoying yerself