Airhead

Dont buy unless the combustion area is good, mines not perfect but some of them are in a terrible state from detonation and on ebay some unscupulous sellers may just post a pic of the top...YOU!! have to ask the right questions. Early LC's had a black painted square shaped head...quite different. This was off a DTRE they have been fitted to many bikes, TZR's TDR's DTR's as far as i know

Clutches are adjustable, not just at the cable either. you should have a little free play in the clutch or the engine heat will expand the pushrod...followed by slip. ok i am making a few assumptions here but I suggest you get a manual and find out about adjusting the clutch on this engine. it may of course be too late now as if slipping is allowed and not dealt with immediately the plates can get hard and glazed and will need replacement anyhow.

Welcome in muppet, getting a few DTers here now. Lots to do, I would start with ditch the fuel and flush out the tank. and strip / clean the carb.

Thats a good point and posting a picure from the back of it isnt very revealing. Here's mine for DT175MX

Can i see in one pic that you have an exhaust?

Nice little project and most of the way there with the pics, next time copy the bottom box under your pic, its the one surrounded by Now if you want to explain something in pictures ...you can The exhaust might be a hard find, have you been looking?

Have a read in FAQ's about posting pictures, it would be better if you learn to do them yourself,i did and now use it extensively to help with what i describe back later

ok before we start what did you do to condemn the seals, how do you know they are faulty?

Hey welcome Paul Lets have some pics of your DT project, quite a few DT fans here so you will get lots of help with it i expect. You need to give detailed info though, for all we know the battery is forked, so tell us exactly. why not start with the horn and brake light just for example. ...Paul

Well i expect it to be similar to the 175. How much appetite have you got to do a full engine out and cases split. if you only plan on doing the seals alone I would attempt to do them with engine still intact and in the frame. Of course this does rather depend that your crank bearings are in good order this will save a lot of time. It's your call.

Welcome Tobi, only three weeks off with a broken leg...thats fast. Like Drewpy says good intro, take it easy on the bike and enjoy the forum ...Paul

Yes Ivan it sounds like clutch drag...haha drag...star Just make sure the level is correct, the oil will thin out when warm. Another tip is when slowing to a stop...snick it into neutral just before the bike becomes stationary, you'll find it easier.

Well done Ivan, next step big test and then a XVS650

Magneto Black (Chassis) to CDI Black Magneto White/Red to CDI White/Red Magneto Brown to CDI Brown For the engine stop CDI Black/White to a switch and then back to chassis CDI Black to chassis CDI Orange to HT coil Other HT coil wire to chassis

The magneto side will be the easiest. Why do you want to change them, have you found them to be faulty?

It shouldnt be all that slow ! is it a DTR or a DTRE ? If its a DTR then has the restrictor been removed from the header?

I think you would be lucky as DEP pies are very thin. You may have to buy another. If you go down the welding avenue then be prepared to bin it if it doesnt work, find a good welder and dont blame them if it doesnt work

Drewpy has a small one, mine is bigger...but merv's

Next job to do is replace my 3BN cylinder head with a 3MB version. 3BN 3MB Needs re painting but not in too bad condition, just a bit of metal debris in the squish, nothing that a rub down wont fix. I was asking about the strange squish area with the 3BN head, Phifi of the French forum Yam2stroke, told me it is to meet noise control standars and to limit detonation? I know...there shouldnt be detonation

ok then, lets not waste any time on hello's what engine and frame numbers?

Welcome Mike from Ottawa Doctor Drewpy will attend in due course

isnt that stating the obvious

According to my Haynes manual, source coil and pulser coil are the same item on this bike. 180 Ohm +- 10% Black/Red - Black

Hi Andy I an unfamiliar with the bike but heres some things to check 1: Filters are often placed at the fromt of the engine cases behind the exhaust pipes 2: Oil capacity is sometimes moulded into the casting of the clutch cover 3: If you suspect it may be over full get some help and lean the bike to see if you can spot the level in the window ...Paul

Och aye