Airhead

Eh? you have a servo with 5 wires from it...yes? Well then thats a 5 wire servo in my book!

Hello James. Did you remove the radiator cap and remove the drain bolt from the water pump and lean the bike to the right until all coolant was drained...before slackening the cylinder head nuts? It sounds like you did'nt and now have coolant in your crankcase

Sounds like the torsion spring could be broken of come adrift, it is held by a circlip. see %201A3RM-300EA/SHIFT%20SHAFT/"]Here

Today I fitted my 3MB head. Took the plug out of the old head and it's a nice colour (crap picture) On looking at the two heads I estimated that the 3MB head would offer higher compression. With the 3BN and a warm engine got 95psi and with the 3MB my suspicions were confirmed with 105psi and thats cold so would increase with a warm engine. All in all its a complicated job compared to the DT175 air cooled, torque settings of head bolts can only be done on some of the nuts due to access problems, Ring spanner and guesswork for the others. Before you ask yes it ran sweet going home a trip of 7 miles but taking it easy due to having drained the coolant and uncertainty over whether its working properly. The temperature sensor in the new head didnt work but the radiator was warm when I got home so thats good. Also the head gasket fitted was a pattern one so that may or may not be a source of trouble in the future. New head, new plug

Hi and welcome, try cleaning the airfilter, if its a corrugated paper type back blow it with compressed air. ...Paul

I laid my bandit up for the winter once and next spring had the same problem, no amount of cleaning lubing would free it so I traded the bike in for another.

'Mitaka' piston low quality?? No sir I dont think so Mitaka = good

No you will get a full refund including postage (Item not as described) Have you asked the seller for a full refund? if he does not co-operate the open a dispute.

reserve is vacuum operated

no not a big job, just get a new one, dig out the old one, you may even be able to do it without draining the oil if you get a mate to lean the bike to the right. I recomment placing some tape over the splines of the gear change shaft as you fit the new one, then just tap it home. ask member 2wheels he did his so has first hand experience.

it's be fine Pat 60 isnt thrashing it by any means...but you have a 600 cbr?...why not that?

....go figure

Are they American

The 4FU cylinder is nickasil plated and cannot simply be re-bored, this may explain the high cost of repair. also the piston used has a concave crown for some reason.

You need a new gearchange shaft seal fitted.

on relection I would advise you paint where you can with a brus on, that would be much easier especially for someone with no experience.

No you cannot use hammerite on exhausts. However I think you can indeed buy exhaust manifold paint as a brush on instead of aerosol, at least you could do a few years ago because I have some in the garage somewhere.

If you are talking of the exhaust pipe not the covers, you cannot use hammerite here because they get very hot. I would recommend using Plasti-kote barbecue paint available from Wilkinsons stores and B&Q. They are aerosol so you may have to remove the exhaust from the bike, or if you paint them on-board do lots of masking and you wont be able to do them completely.

Thats the engine Oh you mean the other end Thats the silencer muffler At a guess.

I dont know chris maybe the pipe is stainless steel, maybe its ferrous chrome plated. Like I say I am not that familiar so cant advise. we have a few members who will no doubt have something to add here, Ttaskmaster and oldtimer to name just two.

Welcome to biking and to the forum Chris. Not familiar with the baby drag so I will generalise a little. I suggest you buy a stainless steel hose (jubilee) clip of the correct size, then take the guard and the clip to a professional welding place such as a sheet metal fabricators or something but be sure you get it 'Tacked' on at the correct place, correct angle and in such a way that you can access the head with a 7mm socket or a screwdriver. Cant help with the lock but you could order one from Fowlers of Bristol I suppose. ,,,Paul

When the brale plate is off you may feel a little ridge inside the drum at the edge, this is brake dust and crud build up. You need to sand this down smooth before fitting the brake back in, the shoes could snag on that.

Pull off the fuel delivery pipe to the carb and check for a good flow rate. Crank seals might have a bearing too, try spraying WD40 at the seal behind the magneto, if the seals are leaking this can cause hard starting. BTW have you tried a bump start?

Cant see ATF fluid being an issue on the seals although I wouldnt recommend it as a lube. The seals may be just worn out, the seal on the left will suck air in and the one on the right (clutch side) will suck oil in and cause smoke. To some extent fuel will pass into the oil and can sometimes be detected by the smell. Trouble is its an old bike and you dont know its history, like when they were changed last