Airhead

See you later numb bum, the most uncomfortable bie I could imagine to be on for that kind of mileage.

They cant do that!! Can they Could we

F..k that! save me a curvy one

Ahh I see yours is a later cable arrangement than mine and does indeed have a self adjusting cable. not sure what the issues are but just check that the pully hits the closed off position pip and peg aligned...at the same time as you hear the carb slide 'clunk' shut...well thats what i'd do.

Not sure what you mean by self adjusting, the more the throttle is opened the more the pulley turns which allows the pump stroke to increase. The only adjustment is to use the cable adjuster to align the pip on the pulley with the pin that is in the end of the pump shaft at closed throttle.

The oil light is nothing to do with pressure...or the pumps function in any way, It is there as a level warning indicator. As such it is importand you know the bulb is good and so you will find it permanently on when in neutral, it will go off when in gear as long as there is sufficient oil in the tank. Pump bleeding...remove the small screw from the top of the pump until bubbles cease to come out and oil flows freely from the hole. Pump priming...start the engine and allow to idle, turn the pump pulley by hand until the pump is stroking at maximum, hold it there for around 30 secs or if you have a clear oil line to the carb...untill you see no air in it.

Good luck, and speed isnt everything

so Edward, see you at squires then, welcome to the YOC mate

Dont ride the bike if the head gasket has gone or you may warp the head due to overheating and then yit will need skimming.

Aye...like Mervin says, they invented copper wire when fighting over a penny Thats why blackhat is so good at tug-o-war

Chhers for that mate, take plenty cash you lot eh

mine's dripping too, even with a new(ish) valve in it! I had it out yesterday but it looked ok, I raised the float level from the recommended 21mm to 23mm...and it still leaks a bit. I will be getting a new valve next Yeah try T Cut paint restorer or whatever you have on the East side of the Altlantic.

You wanna ride pillion Vez?...Friday-Sunday?

so is it detonation?...pinking?...looks a bit like it

interesting idea

Aahh, blue ones wont suit then

I'm wondering...is your fuse holder and associated bullet connector corroded? Give us a shout when you want to try again Paul.

I had trouble with this on my bandit even a gust of wind would have had it over depending on the camber it was on ... eventually I found that the previous model to mine had a stand about 20mm shorter. I got one and drilled it out to fit my pivot pin (also a different size) and it is ok now...

were off on the squires meet up at weekend Phil, well me and 'Cynic' are so like I said, it is wise to unbolt the HT coil, clean up the ground lug with the black wires and clean off the stoving / paint at the mounting point, especially the bottom one that the lug is on. having done that Disconnect all the 6 wires from the CDI. The using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms, (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms (Magneto pulser coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behing the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI and if so I can lend you one to prove it until you can source your own from good old ebay If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says

Experience tells me not to change to 2nd at 9000 revs

where you been Darren? aaghh you might have a quiet day at work to catch up on it

Welcome Duggy has the ebay stuff not got a suitable rim then?

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rr32-regulator-rectifier-646-0.html ??

you broke it damn 2 strokes!!!!lets hope it's just a clutch side crank seal, still I doubt you will be going on it even if it is.