Airhead

I used to go there quite often as a young fella, wouldnt mind a day there again if anyone fancies it...I suppose the year is done now so next year maybe?

This is the reply I got, what do want me to do? "morning Paul yes I have an air box,however it's not the best as someone have drilled a few holes it to get more air in and also i think one of the brackets has snapped of it,if you send me an e-mail address i can send you some pics so you can see what i mean. The airbox is still in the frame but i will remove later today as i have just finished a nightshift so i need a bit of sleep. Manythanks "

could be water in the tank and hence in the carb float bowl, try draining the float bowl.

Hmm Dave you dont seemed to have adressed my post in any way? Remove the fuel pipe from the carb spigot, open the tap and run the fuel into something is there a good flow?

I'm confused, your profile says DTR...not DTX

Aye the woodhead pass, I see it from my house, it's usually cluttered up with traffic though.

Thats not a Greeves...The forks are all wrong

Eh?

Could be a dirty fuel tap strainer, or it may even have a strainer inside the tank, bu look at the bowl one first. Also check the tank cap vent is clear. ...Paul

Stop pissing about with the shite Honda wannabe chinese crap and see if Cynic still has that old DT125 engine

Drewpy I'm really sorry to hear this What was it you did?

So its a bike with a square section swing arm then? Thats a later version, ebay is your best bet but make sure you buy the right one. I may have a lead...i'll ask someone

so youre not a policeman then ging It's here

You pressed the 'clean my bike' button in photoshop Kev?

Funny, it was Goff who taught me

Check the new bulbs in the known good indicators, then have a look in the indicator that isnt working, check the spring loaded contact has not jammed. Clutch, this can be caused by too much oil...check the level is correct.

Youre just showing off you new found picture posting ability.

toknaboot

Only exhausts that have a number stamped on them 3MB-14610 will have the restrictor in them. If yours is that version take it off and have a look. While it's off check your PV is set up right, Turn key ON, after cleaning cycle check the slot in the pulley is aligned with the 4mm hole behind it...turn key OFF, then look in the exhaust port to see that the PV is flush with the top of the port.

When you first start the bike up, hold the oil pump fully open by turning the pulley by hand for around 30 seconds...dont forget the little oil pipe on the inlet manifold. Speaking of which...are two of the corners snapped off ? Thats a bit of a worry, I would use some silicone manifold gasket run a bead around the joint, that way you wont have to apply too much strain on those broken corners...just nip them up.

Dont forget to put the base gasket on and seat it properly Then fit the studs and nip them up, just a nip...dont go mad. RAGS in the crancase mouth from the very start Yes the holes in the piston are at the back. Oil the bore as you said and also the small end bearing before you slide the pin in. You may find that the rings have a thin crinkly expander ring too...if they do it goes in the bottom groove with the gap around the little peg. Top and bottom rings are often different so you need to identify which is which before you try fitting them in the grooves. The top one sometimes has a mark etched into it near the gap, it is usually a keystone ring whereas the bottom one is parallel, It is important you are sure of this before attempting to fit them. Also look out that they go on the right way up so that they go around the pegs ok. A novice may find it difficult to lower the bore with one hand and manipulate the rings and piston with the other...do this and risk breaking the rings (hence the rags), so get some help lowering the bore over the piston.

Looks to me like the gasket set you bought is for a watercooled bike, the cylinder you are buying (which is incredibl cheap) is an aircooled jobbie! So it goes without saying...cancel the gaskets they are no use whatever the bore size is. Wild Foamy is yer man on DT big bores.

Are you replacing the piston?...did I miss something? Whether you are replacing the piston or rings or both, you you know what size to order?...There may be a number stamped into the piston crown. I dont know if you know this already. Tip, as you are sliding the barrel off and before the piston exits the bottom of the barrel, thats when you should by habit stuff the rags around the case mouth...just in case the rings are broben and to prvent them or anything else falling in there. No special tools required, give us a shout when you are ready with the parts

However much you may dislike old Ray...that WAS definitely worth watching to the end.

First have a look at what they are screwing into, do the threads lookk in good shape? if so breath a sigh of relief. Next blow into the holes to expel any bits of debris (rag in crankcase mouth) screw the new studs in by hand until they bottom, then usind vise grips (mole grips) nip them up. If you havent got any vise grips you can lock two nuts together on the top of the stud and then nip the stud up using the top nut. Where are you Ryan, why dont you fill in your profile properly?