Airhead

Welcome Latelifecrisis ok give us a try, give us some female part descriptions then

she's a gobbler

DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short Black male connector...as above Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says

yes i remember the thread in question did you replace the valve and seat or just the valve. I must say i've had this trouble too with new valves passing. Also there is a gasket under the seat it needs to be there to revent fuel coming down through the threads but this would cause a leak as bad as p1$$ing out

is this the one?

Why not just leave it then you can come back later?

The fuel leaking is either the valve and seat or the float adjustment or the float is leaking.

Although I havent had them fitted from day dot. I recently tested mine one the bench at work, they worked just fine nice and bright despite the 6V electrics. I take it you have no indicators then Lee? do you have the relay?

I was just wonderin if I can put a nobbly tyre on my bandit, would it be good for the snow?

You may find the info in a Haynes manual if there's one for your bike.

Yeah R&G do one for that model R&G Tail Tidy

Yeah for a lightweight bike that brake must be quite something. I have a DTR, not the best brakes but adequate...especially compared to DT175 drums

Yeah welcome mate, i'll second drewpy. Where in Yorks?

Looks good but I agree about the yellow stripes, not against stripes per'se but yellow? Long live 2 strokes wildkid whereabouts are you? What do you think about the DTX?

DTDerek wouldnt stand for any 'o' thatshit

Souldnt you be in bed? Time for your medicine Drewpy

It's not BWJ it's Kev, he's on what's left of the 'stretched' 2 engined LC350 700

You could say he's musically challenged then.

Aah, didnt realise that...

I see he had the hammer at the ready for when the DRV goes on the blink

But it's the engine he wants out

i'm confused now, I thought it was an engine bolt that was stuck not a swing arm pivot...although the op did for some reason put the words engine and pivot together

The problem is often that the frame flexes, the wheels flex etc etc, all in all it is not a solid structure when you are hammering at it and will absorb much of the force you are trying to exert on the bolt. The answer can be to place a metal tube over the head of the bolt and up against the frame, jam the other end of the tube up against a solid brick or concrete wall and get a helper to keep it in place. Now your full effort will delivered to the bolt...if it doesnt move now it's the sawing method . Be sure that the bolt will clear the inside of the tube, dont forget some bolts have an in-built washer under the hexagon. I didnt want to see the bloody bike but the bolt!...never mind

Well we have had some desperately low temperatures, I hope your anti-freeze coolant isnt weak. Have the compression tested if you think it's low.