Airhead

Eyup Ross...Owdoo

Are you sure the swing arm is aluminium Tom? Looks a bit skinny more like a steel one, have you tested it with a magnet?

Yes 148 is fine, I think 146ml is the specitied amount. Fork oil comes in different weights up to 15w for the thickest so check what you put in. The forks are on the soft side though.

Good one mozzer, it is in very poor condition and it looks like it found you just in time isnt there someone in Portugal who does graphics kits? I think I saw something on here once. Hmm the frame...personally I like the original mettalised blue colour myself, black is a bit boring. Its going to look mint when youve done it, be sure to keep us updated with progress and pics. Ohh and a tail tidy is available for that model too.

and a quick line from me ------------------------ hi shep

What do you mean further up the loom? do you mean the switch connectors? Yes you can test it with a multimeter. Bridging is only a temporary fix for when a switch is duff, just to get you going. So long as your bridge is good and you didnt make the mistake of bridging the switch instead of the loom side

is it lit?, it may stop the bike starting if the stand switch is faulty. How did you test the stand switch?

Neutral light?

Greetings panzer, the indicator looks a bit limp

Greetings Thundermax, have you really got all those bikes

Greetings Sarge

She's a beaut antere, have fun and

A new carb may fix the problem or may not, sounds like a possible airleak, you should do the tests first with WD40 so as to not waste your money. If you do buy a new carb, make sure it is the right one for your bike...there were two versions. id's 2H500 for early bikes and 3U500 for later bikes. The original studs were 6mm. Many barrels have been drilled out to 8mm as the originals have snapped off or stripped.

Nice knowing you cheerful, at least you got your money back eh.

Two questions Have you measured it with a multimeter? How many wires does the CDI have? I made a step by step test for these DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says Now...how about an intro in the noobs section, where are you...UK?...Paul

LOL

Nice one razor, at least you had a go, its got your personal touch now and looks good. It might have been an idea to do some smoothing 1600 wet/dry (used wet) followed with T-Cut, you would have got a nice smooth finish with nowhere to 'bleed' to. Yes I know, it's a bit late saying this now Well done, she looks great.

Contact this guy here Ask him if you buy it, how on earth could you fit it to your tacho

And we have £8800 now, people are digging deep and ebay have decided to 'but out' as it's for a good cause.

Greetings and MTB, old DT's are very welcome here

Greetings and Robson, I was looking at your link (santa) , you had a very busy day there Heres me on Rudolph, must get a santa outfit myself

Dohh, you have had the carbs apart, perhaps the float needle valve is out of place or stuck? I dont know how the bike is 'plumbed' so I cant be sure but does the carb overflow go this 'pod' you mention?

Greetings and welcome to the yamaha forum Andy

Try screwing the mixture screw in slightly. The official setting is 1 1/2 turns out from gently closed. Sounds lean at idle. Also try having a spray around the carb and manifold with WD40 to see if the engine speed changes, indicating an air leak. is your carb a 2H500 or a 3U500 ?

Greetings jony