Airhead

Greetings bigken yeah its a long way to silverstone on a YBR !

Nice one badger, YBR is a great bike to gain experience with.

Greetings Adam ...where is 'your neck of the woods' then?

FFS kin-L

so the new battery is better what's the concern

You need to get the valve clearances right, get them wrong and you will have reduced compression. The question is...how is this done properly?

so are you saying the washer is standing on the edges of a bent down part and therefore not sitting flat on the throttle slide? I am not familiar but I have to question this. Perhaps it should sit flat with the bent edges facing up and the spring sitting inside of these bent edges?...That way there would be no up / down movement of the needle?

Greetings jez The SR sounds interesting

Greetings dan Would love to see the Honda cb350

True improvisation

Clearly there shouldnt be this movement, make sure the clip is in the right groove and is also beneath the washer you mention, that washer has a bent tab which should locate in a slot in the throttle valve thereby keeping the cable nipple securely in its place, if it isnt this could result in the movement you describe Check and double check this main jet size, 105 is a lot bigger than 88 although 88 sounds a very odd size to me, normally they go up on steps of 5 I think

Greetings Jack the lad, as said a great (unprompted) intro, good luck with the application for the RAF and post up a pic of your new ride

Greetings Old School ...Paul

your problem sounds carb related to me, first off it shouldnt start easily from cold without choke. has the main jet come unscrewed and fallen off? or the throttle valve needle...is it clipped securely in the right slot?

Hi Dave, not year specific all that much. The main thing is there were two types, the european types had their wheel spindle central to the fork tube and the continentals sometimes had a leading axle design. Stick with the european ones. A tip...DTMX's are very popular in France in 125 size...forks are the same though. We have a forum rule that wanted ads should be only in the wanted forum, membership of a mere £5 would be payable to do that. Parts are expensive for these bikes now I find, especially here in UK ...Paul

Greetings Dave, yeah lots of DTMX help in here

welcome KC post up a pic of the nice new R125 when you get her

I dont get it, first you quite rightly discover a 60 mAmp drain (leakage) in your rectifier, and prove it by disconnection, next thing you are doubting the battery is measuring the resistance of a battery a valid test?, to me if you disconnect the battery and it hols charge then it's ok.

Test the joints when its racing away. Spray WD40 on the periphery of the cylinder base joint, the cylinder head joint, the joint of the carb to reed block manifold and the joint of the reed manifold to engine. See if the spraying affects the engine speed / tone

Greetings 'huub1huub1'

I know you have cleaned the carb but it does rather sound like a blocked pilot jet. I assume it starts ok because you are using the starter (choke) and I assume it will rev ok with this in operation but the trouble starts when you switch off the choke?

Mark there was a guy asking for help on one of these recently, didnt know you had one!

Happy birthday drewpy mate

so info here Phil I think

Re the bearing on the crank.. Yeah you should have fitted it in the case by freezing the bearing and warming the case. The crank should then be frozen (not always necessary) and then slid into the bearing. It really shouldnt be so tight a fit between the crank and bearing inner...make sure it is free of rust with some wet/dry paper if it is a little rusty.