Airhead

never done mine mate NEV's your best bet. Cant you clear the water out with it in? it will save lots of time. Apart from removing the chain, all electrical plugs disconnected and pipes too I dont see whats your problem really

You'll be lucky but I expect you know that, perhaps you could have something made? Anyhow there's more IT activity here http://www.yamahait.com.au/forum/index.php

told you so

Greetings R1 fan

An intro would be good

I really cant see what all the dufficulty is myself so long as you have a: The top ring is keystone b: The pin clearance cutouts the right way up c: There is ONLY ONE expander ring to fit...in the bottom (parallel groove) Possibly you will find it easier to fit the piston into the bore away from your bike?? Place wrist pin in the deep freexer for an hour or so Place rags in the crankcase Fit just one wrist pin clip into the piston Fit the top of the piston / rings into the bottom of the bore If you have a hot air gun or blow torch warm up the bottom of the piston (or even place whole lot in the oven for 15 mins) Retrieve the pin from the freezer and quickly assemble to the con-rod job done It is a concern you said spreader rings (plural) Definitely only the one in the bottom, you will notice the bottom parallel ring is narrower...to accomodate the spreader ring behind it

yeah my DT175 are the same, its the later bikes and i think ALL later bikes that are different, dont know when it changed tho

shotblasting does ruin the numbers, it did on my DT175, barely readable now after several re-coats Have a good look with a magnifying glass and compare it to your V5C

Has it been powder coated Dean? NEV my engine / frame #,s are different. I think that this happened somewhere along the line for some reason

Mines on the headstock Dean (2003) Most bikes are in my experience. Ask NEV his is an older model isnt it?

Thats possible sure shes a lovely example...hope you get to keep it mate

Not sure mate you never can tell, I assume you have been watching them go yourself. If I were to guess I would say anything over £1000

Not looking too bad to start with there (not easy to tell though) see you got a genuine exhaust, a wheel rebuild??? done much to her?

One of the first Clive, she looks spot on...Got any before shots?

did you leave some (just a little) slack in the cables? I would take out the PV and clean it up with a rag and white spirit, could be gunged up? Try disconnecting the cables and see if it feels locked up

Thats your problem then, it needs a seal...It will perform better with one as well. Take some measurements perhaps this is it ? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300558072498&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNASIF:GB:1123

on the DTR there is a rubber connector joining the exhaust / silencer, is yours the same? and if so check it for splits / damage

yeah me too, or the float valve dirty / worn

you will have to get the water out. I have never done it nor seen it done...perhaps google it? im thinking a syringe with some tubing attached...fish tank air pump type tubing...that would be about the right size. Get it all out every last drop then give it a good spray with WD40. Then maybe leave it for a day...maybe not before rebuilding.

Greetings chris dont see many combos around these days...now that cars are so cheap like..

Greetings printmitch

Greetings Randy

Of course it shouldnt jon. when you loosened the head...didnt you drain the coolant first?

Shes a beauty bas

Greetings conrad yeah you need to real sure it's right before 'junior' gets a go...I mean real sure