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Airhead
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Everything posted by Airhead
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so you ran a wire direct from the battery + to the ignition switch? did I interpret this right or have you still got the fuse in line? power to the headlamp is possibly direct from the magneto same as my DT175, the battery feeds the pilot lamp, indicators, tail lamp stop lamp, neutral lamp and dash (clock) lamps and horn.
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Theres a quick and easy test for crank seals I wouldnt have trusted the repro carb though Left crankseal would be prone to suck air and run lean and hard to start, right seal would be prone to burn transmission oil and be rough running and smoky
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Totally new but a genuine one or re-produced?
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Clive it would help if you fill in your profile, It's no use asking if anyone is local and not saying where you are! If it comes to it...I could post you yet another carb to try. or we could take it through the forum and you examine your carb and see if all the components and settings are as they should be. I already posted the details of this earlier
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I see the government petions website has crashed and will be re-instated Friday, the target of 100,000 signatures to evict ner-do-wells or their families from council homes if found guilty has been surpassed and so the MP's will have to discuss it (by their own rules). It will be open for more voting Friday guys if you care to add to it.
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get a haynes manual how about an intro...we have a new members section and it is considered good manners to post there first
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I started in 75 The FZR looks a good un
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A pleasant welcome to you sir
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NO! the flywheel needs to seat on the taper, with the woodruff key in good condition and seated properly in the crank and the flywheel slot
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They are utter rubbish, and it would be good practice to apply a thin smear of silicone (about 1/4" wide) around the bore circumference on both sides before fitting. I would do this even with the much better genuine yamaha ones also. If the head gasket is 'passing' you will see a few drips of water appearing on the floor around the left footrest area because the expansion tank overpressure relief is connected to the frame spar on the left. with a very bad leak you will see bubbling in the expansion tank...almost as if it is boiling!
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Yeah John...Manchester hasnt seen so much trouble since the last Glasgow Rangers visit Obviously Hadrians wall isnt doing its job very well ...so see you at squires then
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Too right it's not right, the pulley should be unable to move without taking the PV with it, I suggest you have a look at the back of the pulley and the PV end to see how this can be happening, Also while you're at it...try moving the pV (with a spanner) it should move easily
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say whaaat?
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Happened to me once, one of the shoe springs had broken!
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connect the red wire to the terminal (red probe) that shows infinate resistance or as i said look on the rectifier for the symbol i mentioned. you really must get this the right way round. yes it could also be a bad gnd, you may find a gnd connection on one of the ignition coil mounting screws
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Its is possible you are connecting to the rectifier the wrong way round, is there a sybol on the rectifier...a triangle with a line across one of the points of the triangle? the red wire should connect to this terminal
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what head gasket did you use...a black rubber coated one or a cheap copy all metal one?
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Gareth, Can you explain this comment in detail? I assume you have checked the fuse?
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Greetings G
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same way as you posted in here
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its a very heavy 125 Harry but it looks great if thats your bag, if you want a fast 125 buy a TZR or an aprillia 60 is well fast enough.
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well it seems having such big feet means you will be getting the welder out then
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Try here marshman http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/yamaha_carburettor_diaphragms.htm
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moving it just one spline is too much?
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Great to see you back Goff back so whats all this about Yorkyshire then...you have left Oldhamshire?
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