Airhead

Ahh just make sure none of them are too loose but dont 'murder' them either, it takes experience and i feel you havent got much of that? hopefully they will feel tight enough.

Great stuff stuart,

if i were you in the meantine try torqueing the head bolts when the engine is warm....you may find one loose?

i dont think the battery has any influence on the ignition circuit on a DT50

Oops sorry bernie, you had me fooled there, maybe if i'd have opened the link...dohh, apologies mate

Give yambits a call dude

Good lad stuart

Who you pointing the finger at? :lol:

there is a certain level of expertise here bernie, also we have humour and it's quite typical to ridicule 'tall stories'...like it or not maybe it's because you only recently joined that you havent come across this 'humour' before ....as cynic says though...no DT125 is EVER going to do 205kph, thats just ludicrous and it is odd that you say it will do this staggering speed without de-restriction when the original poster says his will do 55mph so must be restricted !

53/16T

if the operator arm stops moving easily forwards at about the point of the casing mark then the chances are the bearing is there, if it were missing the operator would go past the indicator i would think

I bet they taked about it till the day they dropped the keys down the grid

and a good customer like you foamy...i bet they kept hoping you'd come back for another pair

i dont have a parts manual for your bike, however the one on my bike is 3/16 inch, I would guess yours is the same you would probably get one from a cycle shop (halfords) ? is yours missing, i dont know how you would know that especially with the engine in the bike where you cannot tip it to one side? again...on my bike the steering bearings are bigger at 1/4 inch, as i said before I would guess yours are also

yeah david prhaps a frame with V5 would be best now?

yes so long as nothing is missing (ie ball bearing) then if you push the arm anti clockwise until it stops (ie contacts the pushrod) you should then adjust the screw in the pressure plate until the pointer and casting mark align. do this and see if it's any better, you will then see the pressure plate forced open as you pull on the clutch lever If this adjustment isnt possible then perhaps the ball bearing is missing from between the two pushrods

for starters the lever should be the other way round you will see the end of the lever is shaped to a point, somewhere out of view in the picture there is a marker on the casting (under the carb ?) well the point on the lever should line up with this just at the point it begins to push on the clutch pushrod, this is achieved by adjusting the screw and locknut in the centre of the clutch, there are two pushrods with a steel ball in between them. It might be that the ball is missing and thats why you cant see the rod down the hole ...who knows? also there should be a spring under the arm to pull it back as the cable tension is relaxed

no frame/engine numbers? you may find this place useful http://www.tytrials.co.uk/shop/search.php?q=ty250&pageid=279356

good luck with that vic

have you a frame / engine number?

ok , yeah no offence intended, i realise you may be frustrated by this issue and i didnt see your reply but thanks NEO, pictures can sometimes help though but not always

well you have the clutch operating arm which goes down into the case, around the shaft of the operating arm there is a groove, this groove is for a locating screw to keep the operator in position and stop it from rising up when the clutch is operated, also the operating shaft had a flat side towards the bottom half, this flat presses agains the pushrod and therefore moves the rod and opens the clutch plates against the tension of the springs this is how mine are and i guess yours will be similar....learn to post pictures!

Hmm if its been stood with water in the case i would advise a clutch stripdown, clean inspect and re-assemble, including the pushrod

yes there is a pushrod through one of thr gearbox shafts have you ever had this bike working? have you had the clutch off since?

its a bit confusing how one minute its suggested the arm may be seized...n the next it's moving 180 (ish) degrees? is it moving easily or some resistance as expected from the clutch springs?