Airhead

Greetings BristolWhite mmm an X7...nice

is the cable still attached to the slide jarrod? if so perhaps you can grip it in a vise and pull / tap against it? cant help much with getting parts in usa...ebay or bikebandit?

I fitted one of these to my DT, might come in handy for help with jetting, it has a thermocouple attached to a copper ring to go between the spark plug and cyl head. It's very responsive and cheap to buy http://trailtech.net...emperature.html [media=]

do they do one called Glans...or would that be too cheesy

yes of course having had a quick google, get the longest bolt possible and slide hammer it free http://www.google.co...29,r:1,s:0,i:71 comes with a word of caution, when using this method, take precautions to not let the armature hit the deck when it comes free although the yamahaenduro website isnt available...google showed this much "I had to make an armature puller. The threads ... So I turned it into a slide hammer. ... 173- 81153-10-00 is supposed to be for the AT1/AT2, CS5 and the CS3." I think the guy was saying that using the bolt was massing the threads up, so he used it as a slide hammer

your bike is fast enough as standard, i got an indicated 80mph downhill on my DTR but at that speed its pretty hairy, not streamlined in any way whatsoever...for me a good healthy top speed and fast accelleration beat unstable engine screaming top speeds...hands down

cant see it being stuck too badly jarrod, you'll soon have her sorted, dont forget you cant rotate the slide inside the carb bore because its pegged, you should be able to gently tap it down and pry it back up through the bellmouth, a bit at a time...you will soon free it Take care not to tap the needle though, work away from the centre

yes some carbs have the coolant passing through a duct in them, the heat from the coolant helps prevent 'carb icing'. If it were me i would be happy to remove the coolant pipes without draining the system, just be ready to work quickly and shove something like a pencil in the tubes to stemn the leak so your bike is a water cooled version then

just fill in some blanks is there a thread on the inside of the armature then flyday? can you determine what thread that is then?, often these things tend to be some kind of metric fine thread yes, identify the thread diameter and pitch, use something to 'Dip' the depth to the crank...add a bit and boy that one note i see from the picture in the manual that it looks like the end of the bolt has a smaller diameter than the threaded part...? if you cant buy one long enough there may be other options

hi jarrod a few things are possible 1 the carb slide isnt returning to the closed position...can you hear the click as it hits the throttle stop screw? 2 the cylinder base gasket isnt sealing properly 3 the cylinder head gasket isnt sealing properly 4 the carb spigot isnt sealed properly the the intake rubber 5 the reed cage gasket isnt sealing properly 6 the magneto side crank seal is leaking badly 7 the carb slide isnt located properly with the peg in it's groove down the side you say the throttle doesnt return by itself? is the cable badly routed...tight or any sharp bends etc...could it be routed better?

Greetings jarrod, a bit late but anyhow

only an engine strip will tell i'm afraid

hopefully the clutch basket retaining nut isnt loose?

no i dont think they will be bike specific, just make sure they are for yamaha, the right side has a left hand thread

Greetings ckakan

Better off with them get new ones that are better?

1976 john 525-16150-00-00 . PRI DRVN GEARGEAR (74T) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-Yamaha-Clutch-Basket-DT100-DT125-DT175-TY175-YZ100-YZ125-525-16150-00-00-/230775364632?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bb489c18

needing to be super economical and not doing many miles with it...thats a bit of a contradiction, seriously...get the 650 they have a very good reputation

Greetings conna, you cant ride 250's on L plates any more so assuuming you have a licence get the 650...you'll be much happier with it, and they are not rare Greetings and

can you rustle up some help from your mates...for a push start, myself i prefer to have a kicker on standby

70 seems a bit optimistic but i would have thought you could push her to 60 without too much bother

I doubt the 2T oil change is the problem, anyway it would be easier to smell at the trans oil and watch the level than disconnect the pump By the way...is there a breather on top of the motor transmission area?

Greetings neil and amen to that

Greetings Cyl, good choice man...

Greetings johnno