Airhead

Nope...you should pass horses slowly Kev, anyone with any sense would know that!

if it werent for bad luck youd have none at all put some slac into the cable, push the operating arm on the engine mounted operating lever forwards untill you feel resistance check the pointer at the end of the operating lever...against the pip on the casing adjust the clutch pressure plate adjuster to align these two adjust cable for around 5mm free play end of clutch lever

Some great cinema here

thank god it didnt end in injury, I'm also surprised the ban is so short for ton-up...always thought you could count on a year for that...seems I am mistaken in believing that eh?

nahh an oximiser wont overcharge, whatever it means...it doesnt mean 87 amp

He's got a point but if there are tight spots...clearly he's wrong and this really must be addressed immediately by adjusting the tension at the tight spot and ultimately replacing the sprockets. If the chain really does go tight (as in no free play) it will stress the hell out of your gearbox bearing...not good at all. Dont go tinkering yourself with the chain adjustment leave it for the guy you bought it off to do because of the warranty and this being a known problem like...dont give him any excuses that it was you who adjusted it wrong

Never heard of this problem Ross, whats this about sticky spots at certain wheel positions, check the free play of the chain at various positions including when theres a sticky spot.

Great intro smiley, not boring at all fella

is the pipe for the vac line in good condition with nice tight connections at both ends?

maybe check your tank is venting properly, is there a vent tube kinked or trapped perhaps, when it happens...is it cured if you stop and open the filler cap?

Greetings Gen, Quite like the look of the XS650 but never had one...show us then

explain this jamjar ? "amps 87/88"

Greetings rod, a bike for every sunny day eh? you must have a barn for a garage

Greetings jamjar and

Greetings Col and

Its a points ignition system is it? Tell you what my train if thought is. With a points system you may still get a good spark even if the timing is way way out, you could perhaps get a spark that will burn fuel/air in the crancase...perhaps giving a loud sharp 'pop'...maybe (just guessing here) how could it be that the ignition is so far out that this would happen you may ask yourself? Simple...you dont torque up the flywheel tight to within specifications, then you try starting the bike...there is a backfire...this shears the flywheel key and the crank rotates some inside the taper now your timing is way out and all your efforts to start it are in vain!!! Check your ignition timing...if its good then all well and good, if you have torqued up the flywheel to spec...ditto but if you didnt?!!!!

Just what is your problem? you came on here asking for help with id I offered some help, you responded by just how wrong I was someone else comes on and offers the same result and it's thanks matey where did you get that info from WTF as they say

Greetings kash they are great little bikes...one day...I can only dream Greetings and

hey slice i think he may already have the bike, just looking for the labour perhaps ?

I would go for an OEM one they're very good. And coat it liberally with the thickest oil you have...then squeeze out the excess (as in dont wring)

ahh so i was right then!!!

wow! thats amazing, y'know something I would love to see a vid of all this at the track ...whats the chances?

Thats better so continuing with the google thing...does your bike not look like the one here? http://www.mccookracing.com/articles/charlieOxford_OldMotorcycle.htm

thats how I saw it anyway when I suggested you google it...I hadnt but upon your curt reply I did, cant be bothered to look at the other one but http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=1976%20Yamaha%20YZ250C%20OIL%20DIPSTICK%20YZ%20250%20control%20dip%20stick%20model%20509%20&_itemId=270895655898