Airhead

greetings and welcome to your mid life crisis the YOC ed

yeah greetings again Roger, as blackhat said...maybe with a bit of a blow over from a hot air gun just to warm them a bit first. According to the parts list the seals are Right side...SW-42-72-10 Left side...SW-30-72-10 You should be able to pick them up cheaply at any good industrial bearings and seals supplier...Far cheaper than Yamaha packaged ones

you'll probably find something is not connected securely in the headlamp bowl, have you got a multimeter?

yeah who said old bike were a piece of cake! The oil light is always on in neutral no matter what level of 2 stroke oil is in there, it's like that as a bulb check facility and is a damned good idea. with a good level of oil in the tank it will extinguish when the bike is in gear. so...is the rear light working as I said then? key in 2nd posn...switch ON etc? The main healight only works with the engine I already said that, but if theres a small pilot that should work...I already said that too

I havent any info on the IT400D but the 76 C model is 2.7mm BTDC so that would no doubt be the same for yours

does the clymer book not say what the mm BTC should be? The usual method is to turn the rotor until the correct mm BTDC then hold it there, tthen adust the stator mark to align with the central rotor mark this should also align with the casing mark...if it doesnt, then make a new casing mark...This is how my DT is and I doubt your IT would be any different. Incidentally did the PO have it further advanced than that you didnt say. if he did then that would explain the holed piston If you do have to re-position the stator you'll need a flywheel puller and a means of holding the rotor when torqueing back up...

Looking forward to following this one steve, whats the rear mudguard and inner like then?

Have you got a strobe lamp lizard? if the bike is 6v you may have to connect the strobe lamp to a 12v battery depending on its type? This may be some use and a parts list / service manual if you can find them http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-OEM-Service-Manual-IT250D-IT400D-/180959413898

I wouldnt use the AA's all youll likely do is flatten them, if the battery is lighting the neutral/oil lamps its good enough to work with! I have to make an assumption the lighting works like my DT175, thats the key in 2nd position and left handlebar switch to light on posn, this brings on the tail light and a small pilot light in the headlamp bowl...the main headlamp only works from the engine running The brake light (yellow wire) should become live when the brake is pressed with the keyswitch in either of the first two positions

heat is often your friend as well as penetrating fluid, have you got a propane burner? The biggest risk of breakage is the 6mm exhaust studs they really wont take much stress! From years of experience I kinda have a 'feel' for undoing rusted nuts, you should gently work the nut BOTH ways and never apply much force! Eventually you will find they become free for a very small part of the turn...keep working back and forth and this free part will become gradually bigger and bigger. yeah wire brush and PB Blaster is the order of the day at first though

I'm making an assumption that the rear light should work from the battery providing the battery is good and the keyswitch and handlebar switches are in the correct 'lights ON' positions Try the horn can you her the thing even trying to hoot...any neutral and oil indicators?

I think the centre mark is dead on correct and the other two are the + - tolerance marks, they are either side and shorter than the central mark arent they? Greetings lizard and this forum is really just for intros my friend

yeah connect black to black that will be negative I'm positive as for the others, switch on the lights so that the tail light would be on, now connect to Blue whichever filament shines dullest . Connect brakelight (brightest) to yellow

yeah thats mine beef I'm in Glossop. I was with drewpy at the show

yeah 18v is way too much, I would invest in a new voltage regulator, your username kinda runs away with the imagination The Electrex ones look good with lots of cooling fins http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=xv535+regulator&LH_PrefLoc=1&rt=nc

PM Sent

Nice one NEV that looks great heres some I did with rattle cans

I'm afraid if youd have hit him...he'd be claiming from your insurance. I guess you'll be more cautious from now on eh

Might be worth watching this michael, I know they arent yamaha but you never know they just might do...you'll get the idea if you watch it They are fantastic hand guards though

http://scandalon.com/2009/06/motorcycle-fork-diameter-chart/

you could just have a 19" rim built onto the existing (or a matching) hub perhaps?

Hey bippo on the subject of handguards I would recommend the ones for a suzuki v-strom, I have them on my bandit and you get a lot of coverage from those...much more then the small off road types http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?num=10&hl=en&biw=1143&bih=576&tbm=isch&tbnid=l-KMnWaDD9dzKM:&imgrefurl=http://www.wallis.id.au/vstrom650/handguards.htm&docid=U8XqcEW3t_pK-M&imgurl=http://www.wallis.id.au/vstrom650/images/hand_guards.jpg&w=500&h=376&ei=a0FrULuzE8O30QW7kYGICw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=724&vpy=209&dur=937&hovh=195&hovw=259&tx=139&ty=111&sig=113089700891700004341&page=3&tbnh=120&tbnw=160&start=39&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:39,i:213

Greetings and force

why not drop the yokes down the fork stanchions a little, say 50mm ?

it might be a stuck power valve, take off the pulley and work it back and forth without damaging the flats. You can make a proper job of it later after your test is over