Airhead

Cleaning the carb really means cleaning the inside...the jets and passages inside of the carb. It is always difficult to undo the bowl screws, you need a perfectly good fitting screwdriver...one slip and the screw is chewed up and you will have to resort to other means, There is nothing to say that ANY of this will answer you original question though...the carb might be perfectly clean...your bike will still do 90kph and you may well feel that you have wasted your time.

so you hav not cleaned the carb then...I thought you had done that? are you saying you havent had the float bowl off?

good luck lol

Greetings and welcome back Steve

Greetings mcfly I hear you made a balls up with the GF's bike

Greetings spemwhale, was that you staring at me at the traffic lights then

£400 wow thats a lot, what just for an overbore or is he doing more than just that?

and what comes next, suppose a ring breaks and scores the bore or something...just how many oversizes are left after you have it gouged out to 150cc?...If none then you'll just scrap the barrel hmmm

Everyones just fine and dandy Keiran...I'd stick with 125 if I hadnt passed the test

Can you do a compression test? What size main jet is fitted in the carb?

People have toured on Honda C50's but New Zealand has some big big hils doesnt it?...I would think 400cc+ would suit better ...why 250?

150cc bore, can that be done without boring into the PV? Not to mention the 'L' plate situation!

1 buy a new reservoir 2 fit it 3 tell us when it's done and we'll talk you through the bleeding process Pumping is a nono though...just gently press the brake pedal...then undo the nipple...the brake pedal moves down and stops....close the nipple...let the pedal up...repeat...keep the reservoir topped up

Yeah pull up a chair, crack open a beer and join in

Dont get despondent, you may even be able to do those checks without even repacing any gaskets if your careful and 'tease' the cover off, watch out for the gasket sticking to both the cover and the engine...just gently pry it off so it all stays stuck to the engine case...the reed gasket is pretty sturdy so you'll no doubt get away with that one for now...just grease up the faces when you re-fit them. Then you can buy the gaskets when you're happy with your bike. Here in UK gaskets are cheap to buy (pattern ones)

You're not wrong there

Greetings welshwan to the YOC

Anyone else...DirtyDT?

Greetings harshana...a nice old 2 stroker you have there

Greetings kizz take care yeah its a bit daunting until you get used to it...

The main culprit crank seal is the left hand one that will pass unwanted air into the crank case and reduce vacuum in the carburettor venturi! It's an easy test by running the engine and using a tin of WD40 with spray straw attached...spray through the slots cut into the flywheel sides and aim the jet of spray toward the crank seal. If this action changes the way the engine sounds or runs (briefly) you have just proven the seal is bad In my experience a bad reed valve with curved petals will give slightly less acceleration and power output...along with better fuel consumption and a hotter running engine but starting isnt hard to do! anyway it's another easy test...First by visually seeing if the petals sit flat and secondly if you clean the thing up you can blow air through it but but not suck air through it, I do this test all the time with mine, If you are running after market fiber reeds It's a good idea to turn the petals over the other way every 3 thousand miles or so...this will help to keep them flat and sealing properly

Millers make a treatment...cant say how effective it is but that's what it's made for http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/classic-fuel-additives.asp

Greetings Mohammed and I remember they once did a DT125 ( or was it a TDR125) Chesterfield...Hey post up a pic it would be good to see it

Great stuff kelum...nice mod fella

Nice one Mark, the bike looks a cracking example and you spent your £££'s wisely there. Keep it nice and it will surely appreciate in value