Airhead

This term 'bogging down' lots of people use that expression these days to describe an overly rich scenario...when the mixture is over rich or 'bogging down' back in the day we used to describe this as 'Four Stroking' ie...it feels like it is firing every other beat of the engine not every beat as it should. You need to give it wide open throttle or 'WOT' to determine this, get it right at WOT and then at part throttle 1/2 - 3/4 do the same thing by adjusting the carb needle posn, up to richen and down to lean...always go leaner in the jet and needle posn with a big serving of CAUTION, only do it if you experience 'bogging down'. plug colouring should also be part of the testing as you are no doubt aware Another thing...i think some of the earlier bikes didnt have a 240 jet but had a 210? so it would be a bit silly not to know whats in there and go buying jets

??? where exactly did I say that you shouldnt re-jet I think you'll find I said re-jet 1 size but dont expect it to give you back 10mph as for 'performace exhaust'...well it sounds good but 'after market' exhaust would be more accurate, the original exhaust isnt called a 'performane' one is it and it does quite a good job eh at 80mph

Paul Dawkins is the guy you need, I'll let him know armfaw

Maybe the gullies are there for the reasons you said earlier Jason, but are not playing a part when the motor is running...what i'm trying to suggest here is that when the engine is stopped, the oil that is all over the sides of the transfer ports will run back down to the bearings, and the engine running condition will be as preload said..ie some of the mix is pushed through the bearing into the transfer port...never really gave it a thought myself but I can appreciate that it's a great system and even greater for it's simplicity

it wont need more than a 250 if indeed it needs that but by all means try a 250 However at this stage I doubt it will give you much of a performance difference, it could be that the new pipe simply isnt as good as the stock one

i can

Pretty sure the inner cable should just pull out after you have unscrewed the outer knurled cable connection Gaston...Thats usually the way fella

Oh OK they must have needed another chassis connection for something, seem silly when they could have used the ignition coil mounting bolt without chopping into anything!

I'm intriggued by the 8 wire CDI though...you counted wrong? They are 7 wires mk1 and 6 wires mk2

Greetings Steve fellow 79 DTMX owner one of the first things I learned way way back was how riding in bad weather can conk out these things..I suggest you take of the flywheel, mark the stator position and take of the stator...shove it in the oven for a few hours on low, you need to gett it running again obviously before trying to address wher the clear white fluid come came from You'll need to use your original CDI too... Which region of Mcr are you in then?

Greetings Richard, feel free to start a project thread

one post wonder!

Greetings Tony, nice to see you bringing them up right

greetings Rob

its a mikuni large hexagon type putting the choke on will richen the mixture of course,... so if it pulled better even briefly it would back up your suspicions of running lean

i give up

??? so did you try the old plug then

did you come across that in pos #1 ?

Well if thats the case prove it by briefly switching on the choke

before you start thinking £££'s for a CDI try a new spark plug, I know you said you recently fitted one but try another first as they are so cheap, even try the old one, the one before the recently fitted new one

Dont forget this will be only every 2nd full revolution of the crank...ie on the compression TDC, The next alignment after the inlet valve has closed when turning the crank anti-clockwise

take off the inspection cover over the exhaust valve first and have a look to see if it looks right and the valve is moving ok when the engine is turned, you shouldnt have much gap between the tappet and the valve when the piston is a tdc on the compression stroke although i dont know what the gap should be myself! I get a feeling though that youre such a noob youre gonna struggle with all of this because lack of tools/experience/manual etc!

maybe it dropped a valve, come on now it's time to get the tools out and check

until you get the indicator bulb sorted make the right hand indicators the ones that work, its far easier to use a hand signal for left turns because you can keep with the throttle Can I suggest though that you buy two bulbs and then you wont be in a fix next time