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Airhead
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Everything posted by Airhead
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certainly no good out in the elements like that...asking for trouble in the wet climates we have, kinda like the piece of inner tube idea so long as water cannot get into that either...has to be done right this one does, maybe another option is a SWA cable gland sleeve of a suitable size, so long as the open end faces downwards so it cant hold water https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=swa+cable+gland+sleeve&biw=1600&bih=1075&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi8qf6krM_RAhWJOsAKHcWACN8Q_AUIBygC
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have in mind that just possibly...you'll never get it right due to the repro CDI, which will mean fitting an OEM one...we'll see
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you don't need lines on the stator, there wont be any, sorry I might have misled you there so at exactly 1.8mm BTDC the central line on the rotor should align with the casing line ...then you know these are accurate at 1.8, then strobe it and see if the ignition is right and adjust if it isn't by removing the rotor and repositioning the stator accordingly, you may have to do this several times but the last time you do it...get that rotor nut torqued up properly because if it comes loose it can trash your stator coils! no pictures...NO
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cant see the pictures...can you? and what about this new CDI? they are nearly 40 year old bikes and you bought a new CDI a chinese repro of very dubious quality?? Timing marks on a mk1 (mine) 3 lines on the rotor and a line on the casing, you should be able to make them out on this picture, and by the way...the mk1 one just has two holes in the side as you can see, the mk2 has four and they are quite different
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you have a late 6 wire stator and an early7 wire CDI ?
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the early bikes had a 7 wire stator and CDI and the later ones had a 6 wire stator and CDI...you have a mis-match, unfortunately I cannot give more clarity with pictures because all my pics are on photobucket and that seems to be unusable nowadays...very frustrating!
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I'd check the timing then but like I said you need the tools for the job, although you might see a line on one of the slots and a line on the crank case as a guide?
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is the barrel OEM, does it have a casting mark 2A7 ?
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don't know the bike so if you can find an oil tank (usually behind a (side panel) you will know the answer to this Q sir, autolube oil pumps are general behind a small casing on the RH side of the engine and you'll see two spigots where the oil pipes enter and exit the pump? if it has one
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you could do with checking the timing but you'll need specialist equipment a dial gauge 'DTI' to check your timing mark 1.8mm BTDC and just to be sure..a strobe light I'd have a look at the cylinder head too, to make sure it's not been skimmed which would increase the compression if the exhaust port is standard!
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its not an inductive load Jason, its only a piezo! you could run that easily I'd expect... typically they draw just a few milliamps
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whats in the dash Nigel, a single idiot light?...if so connect in parallel to that maybe?
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Wow! that'd draw a crowd anywhere
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yeah don't know the exact figures for a chappy but assuming it is a magneto type ignition the same as a DT175 then... Primary coil is about 1.0 Ohms to ground and the secondary HT coil is 5.9 K Ohm to ground (remove the plug cap to test this)
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also seen people use flickr or something?
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it should be tight,try Clymer for a manual ?
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let me know when he gets bored with it
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much better without them Simon...no neeed for them at all unless your doing off road with reduced pressures, you can also balance your wheel a little if needed with those weights that clamp around a spoke nipple, dunno if you can still get those though?
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whatever you decide to do with it, make sure that when it's raining very hard that all water is diverted safely away from the electrics...even when it's on its sidestand
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Greetings Ady
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Greetings Mr Riggs :welcome:, yeah you'll need deep pockets for an XT500...or get an XT600 or a TT600R like me for sensible money
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not sure Richard...a few q's is this off the GT80? can you post pics of both sides of the carb? Happy new year to you too
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the rim tape will hold the tube in and as Cynic said put a grommet in the hole that's left 90480-10068 Its the same as the one in the rear brake plate
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