Airhead

hey hey yo yo

weld a piece of steel to it with a rod.18" ..itself welded into the steel, a big hollow weight, something welded onto the end ans slide hammer it off

surely as 'cynic' said you can use the old engine, with the head/barrel/piston from the new one? anyway, as you have suggested, you may be able to use all the new engine but with the rotor/stator and carb from the old one...made any decisions yet?

I'd be thinking along the same lines as you mikki

Welcome back to yamaha Andy

cant be that far out then, isnt there an inspection window or a dipstick on this bike?

yeah thats right but really theres no need for that bit of kit, if you think about it it's main benefit would be on a car where you cant push the brake and work the nipple at the same time!

so you put a litre in? how much does it take?

pump the lever several times, when you feel some resistance (ie before it hits the handlebar), hold it there and then and only then undo the nipple and allow the lever to hit the bars...hold it there, close the nipple...and so on, you wont have to pump the lever following this, just do it as you have been doing.

did you overfill it then?

I wouldnt use the dead battery, you may overload the rectifier / charge coil

check the buls with a multimeter edit: i meant bulbs !

yeah the battery acts as a bit of a 'sink' for some of that high voltage, perhaps running without it overloaded the regulator and blew the bulbs?

Great pic of your bike in the Derbyshire hills shaun

thats pretty much normal, sometimes you can see more move though if the clutch has the moulded rubber spacers in it

my suggestion is keep the throttle closed when kickstarting her

Thats right

Disconnect the cable, use your hand to push the operating lever until it shows resistance. at this point the pip and pointer should align, use the adjuster screw to achieve this. when that's done re fit the cable and set the free play....job done

try a squirt of oil down the spark plug hole, it will restore compression to help start the bike

Well done she's coming along nicely mcf

err what do you mean the tyre dislodged from the rim...if you're riding that hard off road have you considered using rim locks?

G'day openroad, Greetings and plz leave the 'new members' section for intros and welcomes/general chat and post your Q's in the appropriate place (workshop?)

yes of course you will tom, you'll need some free cable can I ask why you want to do this? It's not meant to be dismantled on a whim...only to change a cable

use paint stripper on the caliper...though that stuff isnt up to much these days! which may be why no one responded, y'know telling you to do something that no longer works...try to keep it away from any exposed rubber parts. as for the casing, why not re-paint it and maybe stick something on to take the worst of what the mx boots dish out?

is it a cylindrical box tom? if so the end with just one cable pops off...try warming it with a hairdryer?