Airhead

Why, has the auto lube system been removed? Normally just keep the two stroke oil tank topped up

Photo?

If memory serves me correct the ignition timing is indeed adjustable, its just an assembly thing though, ie if its been assembled right it will stay right as there is no points heel to wear, you still wont know if its right unless you check it, but i'm afraid you would need a DTI and an adapter to fit it in the plug hole. What is the restrictor in the exhaust you mention?

Think you might be right there, and we dont know if its got those little holes in the side now its a different carb, might be worth checking up somehow. What about ignition timing can you strobe that, I know its a 6v system, but you can still do it if you connect up to a 12v battery, cant remember but have you tried removing the air filter in case its restricting air flow?

Crikey 7omly, wondered where you'd been , so sorry to hear this but i must say that surely you must have a good case, the council will know what roads they gritted on that date or the previous evening. Listening to your story i cant see how anyone in their right mind would not be sympathetic to your plight. How on earth could you build up evidence when you were carted off to hospital. Didnt the police take photos after this accident? Have you got legal advice from your insurer?

Ive checkut, its different from the european model, the part i means is number 3 Here But I know this as the needle jet and it just screws in, like i said yours is different and i am not sure if it has the same holes in the side, we need to investigate this further

Doesnt matter if you do pass your car test, you will still need to pass bike test or keep taking cbt's

That would make it a VM24SS 3J100 on a DT175H or DT175G, mine uses a 130 main jet as standard, wonder why they are so different! Still think you should clean out the exhaust and check that needle jet as I said earlier, if only because you have done everything else and i know for a fact that mine has become worn in the past and ive had to clean out those little holes in it

I'll stick with thousand...And is not a number

But being a two stroke it should work better with the expansion pipe on, thats why they were developed in the first place so your last move was futile, you seem to know your way round that bike well enough, i'm sure youll get it better. I think you should be looking in the carb area, in the uk the main jet size originally is a 130 so yours should be at least that, maybe try a 135 or 140 Also take out the needle jet and check it for wear with a good magnifying glass, check its perfectly round at the top where the needle goes in and not going oval, and while its out make sure that the tiny holes in the side of it are all clear

pour some coarse grit in the pipe, block the ends and give it a good old shake up, try to clean the muffler up internally too

Both symptoms suggest its too lean with closed throttle, maybe the air screw is too far out or the pilot jet is blocked or fuel level in carb is too low

Love the colours, reminds me of a wasp, as in 'dont f**k with me' or youre gonna get stung

Have a look here clicky link

Hello Rossi, and welcome

Hi have a look at previous posts on this subject, use the Search button at the top right of these pages, search for DVLA for example

Hi Will and welcome, nice bikes them Dt's, best of luck with your training

Looks good Geoff...Ouch

Little tip here reborne...When yo fit the new chain (and a new split link) Keep the old chain, then if you want to remove the fitted chain next time, you clip the old one to it and pull it through as you withdraw the fitted chain, thus negating any requirement to dismantle half your bike(mini style) next time and avoid that gathering in a neat little pile under your front sprocket,

Fron wheel removal, so you can feel the bearings

Cant imagine what would bend or snap an axle, Youre right, it should absolutely eat speed bumps no problem, you could do with a manual , Haynes or similar.

Now that is laid back

Air filter 1 link Sometimes find them here link pattern ones, more like the original, none in at the moment but they usually advertise them to check the function of the pump i need to know if the bike is running If it is remove the pump cover pull off the oil pipe from the carb start the engine and let it idle now turn the oil pump pulley with your hand until it is fully open there should be pulses of oil coming from the disconnected pipe as this is the pumps maximum output position. You will notice that if you let the pulley return to its starting position, the pumps output will be greatly reduced When happy DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE the oil pipe back on the carburettor If the bike has stood idle for a while (which it appears to have done) you really do need to verify this pump action before its ridden As for the indicator oil / neutral lights pull out the little clips from under the relevant clock (ie speedo or tacho), it can then be lifted up enough th gain access to the lamps

Ok you know theres a problem you even correctly diagnosed it with holding tha wheel and twisting the bars youre going to have to remove the wheel, and in so doing you will see if your axle is ok, then if tou stick your finger in each side of the wheel you should be able to 'feel' if the bearings are silky smooth or rough as a bears wotsit. Incidentally bent fork stancheons could also be thrown in the mix, has it had a bump lately? And also check that the spokes are not loose , this is an easy check so do it now!