Airhead

Bloody maps and ECU's, cant beat a set of points and four carburettors to play with Glad to hear youve got it sorted

Looking good shokz, tell us a bit about it, good buy? whats it need doing to it? using it yet?

Ive heard it said that if you drill two small holes in the oil seal and then screw two self tapping screws into it opposite each other you can then use these screws to pull out the seal., ive not tried it myself though, it depends how tight it is and if it doesnt come out it will no doubt leak more If it works though place the new seal in the freezer for a couple of hours before fitting it as it will shrink and be easier to fit wrap a piece of insulation tape around the spline on the shaft to protect the new seal when fitting grease the outer edge of the new seal and use a socket or piece of tube slightly smaller diameter than the seal to drive the new seal in

Try here, They might export

Given that it takes a certain amount of time to fully burn the fuel / air mixture, the point of ignition has to vary in proportion to engine speed Make some assumptions here just for a guide At tickover speed of 1200 rpm,the ignition advavce is set to 2mm before TDC so assume that all the fuel is burned at TDC But at 8000rpm there will be much less time for the piston to travel from 2mm BTDC to TDC there would not in fact be enough time to burn all the fuel To overcome this, the point of ignition has to be advanced as the revs rise, and this is the reason for advance retard systems Hope this helps

I doubt it Chris, but perhaps you could Ask here

Thats a cynical view of the people here, you probably wont get a reply now.

Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum

Spotted this at the Barbican in Plymouth this week, the pics dont do it justice, truly awesome workmanship

Yes very impressive

Well done Audie, im with maximuscle, ride safely within your own capabilities and enjoy a great life experience.

I got a CD from ebay, covers various 125/175 250/400 DT's on PDF files

If youre lucky it might just be a broken spring, number 14 on here Shifter You would not have to split the crank case to get this far

The first and easiest thing to do is confifm that the gear lever splines are intact and that the lever is not slipping round on the shaft

Welcome to the forum lotty, sorry to hear that and i hope you soon get a new girlfriend...Now about that DT?

1 (1M1-82590-21-00) WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY . . 1 (1M2-82590-21-00) WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY . . 1 2 443-82508-21-00 MAIN SWITCH ASSEMBLY . . . 1 3 1M1-82555-00-00 DAMPER, MAIN SWCH 1 . . . . . 1 4 1M1-82556-00-00 DAMPER, STOPPER . . . . . . . . 2 5 90201-05033-00 WASHER, PLATE . . . . . . . . . . . 2 6 92990-05100-00 WASHER, SPRING . . . . . . . . . . 2 7 98503-05025-00 SCREW, PAN HEAD (98501-05025) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 8 260-83371-12-00 HORN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 97013-06012-00 BOLT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 10 92995-06100-00 WASHER, SPRING . . . . . . . . . . 2 11 92901-06600-00 WASHER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 12 1Y8-82310-40-00 IGNITION COIL ASSEMBLY . . . 1 13 98511-06025-00 SCREW PAN HEAD (92501-06025) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 14 92995-06100-00 WASHER, SPRING . . . . . . . . . . 2 15 90462-05005-00 CLAMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 16 81E-82370-20-00 PLUG CAP ASSEMBLY . . . . . . 1 17 1M1-82530-02-00 STOP SWITCH ASSEMBLY . . . 1 18 BTY-6N63B-10-00 YUASA 6N6-3B-1 (1E6-82110-29) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 19 90445-08047-00 HOSE (168-82112-00) . . . . . . . . 1 20 118-82141-09-00 LABEL, BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . 1 21 120-82131-00-00 BAND, BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . 1 22 1E6-82122-01-00 SEAT, BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . 1 23 1M1-82115-00-00 WIRE, PLUS LEAD . . . . . . . . . . 1 24 1E6-82150-00-00 FUSE HOLDER ASSEMBLY . . . 1 25 1E6-82151-00-00 FUSE (10A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 26 1M1-83350-60-00 FLASHER RELAY ASSEMBLY . 1 CONTINUED ON NEXT FRAME ä ELECTRICAL Ref. Part No. Number Description Qty Remarks E9 DT250D_DT400D

Thing is, what caused it? are the exhausts heating it up? Ive seen insulation wrapped on the pipes somewhere in the past in order to combat this

Oops, should have gone to specsavers , She gets my vote

Its likely to be the carburetor float height setting, it should be set to 21mm

She's a very attractive girl, couldnt see any where to vote on that link

Hi FS and welcome, Ive got a DT even older, its a 1979 DT175MX, and guess what, yes it got autolube just like the DT125R, its done around 37000 miles and the autolube has never let me down once, you need to make sure that the one on the bike you buy is functioning correctly. As for buying second hand, you could do with taking someone along with you who knows their way around a bike, someone who at a glance can tell if the chain and sprockets are worn and that the bike is apparently in good condition, bearing in mind how old and the price paid, it would be good if you could buy one from a mature owner but unlikely to find one of those in a hurry Look out for Receipts for work done and service history chain wear no rust and pitting and oil (leaking seals) on the fork stancheons, pump them up and down for a while to test have a look round the bolt heads and engine screw heads all over bike, look for signs of damage through using the wrong tools Generally is the chrome, paint, no dents and dings, plastics and decals in good shape Good luck, i think its a good choice to learn a bit about bikes and have some fun

Its been asked and answered before, cant comment on its accuracy, its up to you to do it or confirm with the contributors to This post

Yes, removing that would help the breathing without doubt