Airhead

Adam youve probably flooded the crankcase with fuel, turn off the fuel, remove the spark plug and leave it standing for 24 hours, if its got a kickstart, turn the engine over a few tumes to aid evaporation. When you try again the next day, Try leaving the fuel tap off at first.

is this still the case...surely you fixed this after all this time Possibly answered your own question there No you need a good float needle shut off and to have your fuel level float height set correctly so from august 9th until august 31st you still need a new needle, It needs replacing...not saying it will solve the problem, but it is a problem in itself so fix it and move on from there. Oh and to answer your question about How does a malfunctioning needle valve cause gas to leak out of the overflow pipe? ..Well fuel gets past the needle valve, float rises, needle valve closes, fuel gets past visible grooves in needle valve, fuel exits carb onto gravelled driveway!

I assume they are brass floats, The problem with adding epoxy or solder etc in any meaningful quantity is that you will affect the buoyancy and the fuel level in the carb will increase, you will need to take professional advise on this or buy new if you can

Silly man Still it would take a heck of a lot of idling to be a problem I expect

Hello 2 stroker Google, I put "yamaha cs5" -synth* into my google search, this ignores all sites with a word beginning with synth, One of the first sites I found was This There loads of pictures there and I didnt even look at the other sites. So copy and paste "yamaha cs5" -synth* into your google and have a look As for pictures Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum

What time you going?

Cant see anything wrong with fitting a reed valve so would say 'good thing' The oil pumps work from the rotation of the crank usually so the slower the crank rotation, ie idling, then also the slowest the pump will stroke (frequency). Coupled with this they are also connected to the throttle cable, so the wider the throttle is opened the stroke of the pump gets longer. In summary, At full throttle the engine revs are high and so the pump stroke frequency is high, also the pump stroke length is high, Therefore high frequency and long strokes = maximum oil is pumped...Just what you'd want at full throttle If youve heard about this bike oil pump not working when idling, then Mr Yamaha must have connected it to a gearbox shaft, a bit of a blunder I would say, But I doubt it, Mr Yamaha is cleverer than that

Could be worn bores or rings, When the bike has been stood a while the oil drains away down the bores and the piston rig sealing is then not as good, but when bike has started (from a bump), oil is then circulating and the seal is restored somewhat, compression test does sound a good idea.

Why dont you get yours re sculptured, I know tony Archer from Huddersfield does nice work...But there are others too!

33BHP XV250..Thats RD power

Me and the missus have always had dogs, we had a Rottweiller and Alsation when my two girls were born, some people would worry about that but my dogs were absolutely fantastic with the growing kids...the girls even rode on the the dogs back when they were small, I know where youre coming from with losing them though, yes its heart ache, ive been there many times but the good times last longer...much longer

As its a YAMAHA forum and youve not passed your test yet...Maybe a Fz600s2...I'm confused too...

Been a few posts like this lately 1, If there are rubber mounts between the carbs and manifolds check they are not split and sucking air in, I suggest you wrap insulation tape round them to see if it improves the situation because this would be a quick and easy way to check...Repair and replace as necessary 2, Screw in the air mixture screws gently until they stop, if this improves then start to back them out again to find the right setting before the 'racing' happens 3, Check float height and thoroughly clean carbs These are all possibilities

Hello Stuart and welcome to the forum...The Fz6 is a great looking bike and a sensible choice for you i would say. Good idea of yours re the extra training too. Hope you find some answers here mate.

I thought primary chains went out with the arc, remins me of my tiger cub days? Cant see the point of them unless its somehow a retro look thing

Hoggy, you need to go there too, XT's its what they specialise in

They look like this This is a work in progress nearly finished, you will see it Here in the two strokes, and i'm sure Dave R will be able to help with advice.

Demand your money back, leave them in no doubt how you feel about being called a liar, and go elsewhere!

Drewpy is an expert on XS400's, not seen him lately, may be away...Anyhow have a look for his posts!

Seriously badbrad, if you want more performance from a 125 sitting upright...Get a DTR125, It'l eat the little draggy for breakfast IMO

Change that bulb anyway is what i recommend...reccomend...never could spell that

So it only happens on dipped then?

Thing that gets me is...What on earth is the great 'OGRI' doing faffing about with trying to get more power from a gutless 125 cruiser wannabe?...Should be on a supercharged Triton or summat, or have he should leave this to the hapless Malc, and sneer from the sidelines as he does his 'Great balls of fire' act. OGRI why dont you leave the fuel cap loose to prove whether fiddling with this plastic widget is really going to improve things, personally i doubt it but i'll give you one thing..If you remove it the bike will be lighter so that should improve accelleration somewhat.

Theres a man who obviously knows his way round a block of ally BTW...Nice job

Thats what i'm thinking too!