Airhead

Thats exactly what I forgot to say in my post, I use BBQ paint, its good for 425C, Wilkinsons sell it, made by plasti-kote.

Hello Andrew, Welcome to the forum, Good to see youre back on two wheels Hope you dont forget how to ride though!

Hello and welcome Davey, And well done for the rescue mission, many wouldnt have bothered or would have wrecked it as a so called ' Field bike' Hats off to ya mate!

Yes you need to remove it and give it a rub down with emery or wet & dry depending how bad the rust is, degrease it with something like a wipe down with white spirit, let dry and spray. You will need to do it fairly frequently because riding in our climate with all the rain we get makes short work of exhaust paints. heres mine I painted this year

You could PM ReBorne, Tell him I sent you, He's got a FZ400RL (Could be similar)...Not seen him here for a while

Hello and welcome JGP, Youre in good company mate, only ive still got my trailie

Theres only one way, take them apart, find someone to do it for you, No short cuts with this one!

Hi, not trying to be sarcastic, but its usually obvious, underneath the engine.

Paul you will need to go smaller on the front to accelrate faster, or bigger on the back, Problem with bigger on the back is your chain might not fit unless you buy a full chain and sprocket kit, which might be your best bet...How worn is your present one?

Maybe the chain you saw was a cam chain, Dont know the bike but possible, They are still used. Go to the rear sprocket and at the furthest point at the rear of the sprocket, try to pull back the chain from the sprocket, There shouldnt be much movement here, If there is youre looking at new chain and sprockets to fix!

I do as FZ6 Geoff S2 will agree (last sunday in Matlock)

Got to take my bike for its MOT (or sea worthiness) tomorrow, Aagh i'm gonna get wet!!!

What happens if you give them some throttle, do they keep going then?

Or go to Wilkinsons and buy some plasti-kote BBQ paint, its good for 425C and cheaper than exhaust paint, although its the same stuff really. Having used many different exhaust paints over the years, I find this is as good as any of them. Have a look at my bike in Gallery to see how it looks, 1979 DT175MX

Havent looked, but you could try Wemoto, or M&P, MPS etc, sometimes these little bikes dont have the cannister type filter, so check your bike before you start trying to find something that doesnt exist, Most important things are bulbs all working, oil change (Filter?), Brake shoes/Pads, chain and sprocket condition, Brake fluid change (If disks)

Just found this on another forum, Never heard of it but I must say I like the idea, Dont know how it fits with your bike though. You know you can change the stem seals without taking the head off dont you. A bit fiddly but it can be done using a bit of polly rope fed down the spark plug hole with both camshafts and plugs removed and the piston still rising feed some polly rope down the plug hole and then gently turn over the engine until it locks up. remove the valve spring by pushing down the valve cap and remove collletts. Hey presto remove old stem seals and replace............very fiddly but a lot cheaper than a new head gasket.

How much do they want for the sump plug then?

This is how you started this thread, And with our experience and knowlege we have given you the answers you wanted However since you are clearly not interested in the answers, but are far more interested in the argument I think you must be either a.) Correct (Making us all incorrect) b.) A wind up merchant (Troll) c.) Stupid My money is on b or c

This is how you started this thread, And with our experience and knowlege we have given you the answers you wanted However since you are clearly not interested in the answers, but are far more interested in the argument I think you must be either a) Correct (Making us all incorrect) A wind up merchant (Troll) c) Stupid My money is on b or c

No No No No No, The point is twofold 1) We adjust slack to stop the chain from jumping off 2) We adjust slack to compensate for wear so we get more use from it all...It does affter all cost money

Absolute bollox G man, you just dont get it do you, the new chain fits the new sprockets perfectly, Youre exagerating on chain adjustment every ride...maybe second ride... but there again you dont lube your chain, just WD40 it so perhaps its true in your case... The worn chain still fits the equally worn sprocket perfectly, when it doesnt fit is when new meets worn

Thats a very valid point, now thats cleared up can I add that if I had lots of money and lost of space (Neither of which is true)....I would like one of those too, Love the retro look

Is there a glass window on the side of the casing, If so fill it half way in the window, engine stopped, vertical on its wheels.

Hi Dom youre new so welcome to the forum, lets see some pictures then! Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum BTW if its a 175, it will say in the cylinder casting 171cc, somewhere on the side if memory serves me correct

How do you know that then G man?, you mean because they looked ok? Lets make a few assumptions here, A new chain has 12.00mm between its roller centres, a new sprocket has 12.00mm betwee the leading and the trailing edges of its teeth...So everything fits perfectly! Now when the chain wears the 12.00mm between its rollers becomes 12.05mm and the sprocket wears at the same rate, (Although it still looks Fine to the eye)ie 12.05 between its leading and trailing edges. So if you now replace that chain there will be only one roller touching one tooth on the sprocket, the next roller along will miss the tooth by 0.05mm, further up 0.1mm and so on. Because this 'New' chain is putting all the power through one roller it rapidly wears until it has worn to 12.05mm between rollers, at which point the wear rate will slow down as the chain comes into contact with the other teeth and shares the load again. End of story, Pay now!!