Airhead

you just like 'Dark' ones

I didnt realise that keihin were fitted to yamaha's, usually the choice of honda, anyway Keihins air bleed (mixture) screws are nearly always set between 1 and 2 turns out from gently closed

Are the idle mixture screws set as per spec for your bike? You could try turning them clockwise by the same amounts (that is of course if its a multi cylinder), this will richen the mixture at idle.

The engine does have oil in it although its only in the gearbox and clutch case, there will be a drain plug underneath, warm the engine before attempting to drain it. Before you do drain it find out how much to put back in, there is usually a dipstick or a window in the clutch case to use as a level, you need to have the bike vertical when filling to the correct level, as Mikey said, the other oil is two stroke oil and your engine burns this so you need to keep it topped up, although there should be a warning light when its getting low.

I....I.......I........Ermm....lol....Ag... Agh, never mind!

Good news Geoff

Does the tap have a 'RUN' and a 'RES' position? When when you run on to RES you have approx 2.5 litres of fuel left You must remember to switch it back to RUN when you fill up....Hope this helps

This is bad news, not familiar with your bike but ive learned from previous posts that theses bikes struggle to haul their considerable weight around, A knocking noise is a bit of a worry, tell us you didnt buy it private sale and then take it back to the dealer to fix...Four days!!!, you cant be that unlucky surely

I mentioned FZR600 a, because its the only diagram i could find b, so i thought they...just might be similar who said i was looking at a FZR1000 diagram?

Yes i followed a FZR diagram Jim, like the title of the post...FZR1000

Try some new plugs and caps, also give the HT leads and coils a spray with WD40.

If its the same as FZR600, the lights are fed via the start button switch, from battery through fuse red/yellow wire, into start button when button NOT pressed , back out on blue/black to feed high low light switch.

I cant tell you to take risks with your money, but i can tell you at £34 if it were me i probably would, the only problem is, it it doesnt work is it the new CDI or is it something your shop / garage has missed?

My bikes 15BHP...Its a man's bike...15 of em... all at the crank... fck it! New carb ordered new reeds waiting new expansion pipe waiting modified air box waiting ported cylinder waiting

PMSL...

Ive had an idea, buy some bike mags with tests for this bike, they might shed some light on it. Shokz is right, manufacturers sometimes quote BHP figures at the crank, not the wheel. I think the guys at the dyno session should have explained things more though rather than just taking the money and saying nowt!!

Its the dry battery and elevated voltage if there is, thats causing bulbs to pop

i'm thinking like you on this, Stick a multi meter across the battery terminals at tickover (as in traffic jam), see what you get here!

Hi and welcome, First start with a workshop manual, there will be lots of good info in there!

Gets my vote

Could this be a vision of the future, a la flight simulater Good Luck...

Two superb pics there, where were they taken...Wales?

Dont have a honda, and theres nowt lightweight about riding a pushbike 14 miles a day over Mottram moor...lightweight is using the motorbike...hopefully when winter is over i will will be a bit lighter though

Err apart from Drewpy...have you seen any of us out and about???

Good point that!...well worth a check, does make a big difference.