Airhead

My god that was some windy day this year, wouldnt believe it was June was a really scary experience riding over woodhead pass on my tiddler, and then frozen in the wind at Bon Jovi gig later, But yeah hope to go again next year, not sure about my crap trail tyres on the cct though, we'll see (could always walk round the corners)

well done Michelle, you impressed me for sure.

Welcome to the forum camb, like your choice of bike Q. Where do you find a one legged dog? A. Where you left it.

Sorry Joe, just wipe them with a rag soaked in WD40. Anything else such as metal polish or heaven forbid wire wool that will make them shiny but are all abrasive and will soon have the plated surface removed, riding in winter will also remove the plated surface due to salt on the roads, its an irreversible process if you let it happen! if youre going to ride in winter, this is the damage you can expect, all you can do is try to slow it down with regular cleaning.

Hi donny , We have quite a few YZFR125 fans here, have a look around, use the search button and you will find lots of comment on them

its safe and is a well adopted method of cleaning so long as the solution in the tank isnt aggressive.

Yes thats right, sometimes they are combined; I dont think that is the case here though, the drawing lists and shows the correct symbol for a rectifier, we'll investigate that though, if our rectifier is also a regulater it will have cooling fins as part of its constuction; so ktom..does it have cooling fins?

Thats so corny...I could have said it...

I dont suppose it will work unless you have led's both front and back, that will be why he's done it the way it is, youll have to do the front too

sounds like the guy who fitted them didnt buy a flasher relay for led's, this may be because only the rear ones were fitted

Dan, weve got history with this problem, i think you mean regulater when you say rectifier dont you?, unfortunately this bike doesnt have one fitted, even as built!!

Not sure is is AC now without studying a diagram, mine is: thats why i said that! The way to find out is either work it out from the diagram, or fit the new battery turn on the key and dont start the engine, if the headlight works now its DC...if you need to start the engine its AC

Dunno about the shocker shep, but welcome to the forum anyhow

It may be, i dunno for sure but all i can say for certain is when my bandit gets started up in spring following a winter lay off its rough as a bears untill its been run to hot, you can barely open the throttle without it cutting out, After that; its absolutely fine. That condensation needs to be all burned off or you have water in your oil and engine, not good!! Why rush to the dealers now if its laid up, see how it is when you resurrect it in spring.

I'm not a fan of starting bikes up that are away for the winter myself, huge amount of condensation will be produced in the engine, especially a big motor like that. If you must, then take it out for a good ride until all trace of vapour has gone from the exhaust and the motor is hot.

Hi Daz, and welcome to the site.

Come on chris, ive just looked in the manual Here and the info is on page 20 of 78 !

Yes you will need a bigger main jet, find out what size it is now,... and then try you local yamaha dealer, or Fowlers in bristol, or have a word with Steve Here

Hi yes it could easily be that, have a read of this Here it explains all manner of fault finding, including reg/rectifier testing

Nae chance o that Blackhat, the old metabolism aint what it used tae be!!

I wouldnt recommend it as a be all and end all when carb cleaning no, but combined with carb cleaner and a compressed air line, it gives a more comprehensive result when carb cleaning, I really only answered this to say that carbs will not suffer from this approach at all, not to push it as a sole method of cleaning As far as the running of the engine goes; if that is your only concern, like you say Jim...Carb cleaner and compressed air is the way to go.

Hello againn Tom, Its normal for your headlight to go dim when idling because its AC straight from the magneto. however the indicators, rear lights headlamp pilot lamp and instrument lamps are all off battery so they should work from the moment the key is switched on without the engine running. The reason the headlight dims when the indicators or brake light are activated is because there is no reserve of power for them out of the battery. I think the fact that the battery is trashed may have a great deal to do with the bulb blowing issues, the battery itself acts as a form of regulator as the voltage rises then more current will pass through the battery so in a way the battery is a load on the cct, but an open circuit or trashed battery is no load at all and so the voltage can rise to whatever the magneto is putting out at any given speed. the way to prove this theory is. disconnect the battery and measure between battery positive lead to chassis or battery negative lead, run the bike, hold at 5000rpm and note DC voltage. Then fit a good new battery and do the same measurement across battery terminals, hopefully you will see a reduced voltage this time.

I dont know the bike particulars, but is there any bolts behind and to the rear of the side panels, remove them lift the back of the seat slightly and slide the seat back (Just a guess)

Sounds like thats what happened to me too (chain slipped), youre going to have to relieve the tensioner , undo the chain link and re-time as per workshop manual before re tensioning, like drewpy says...hopefully you were turning it over by hand or kickstart lever!

Looking good Drewpy, you happy then? were the hubs done at the same time, and the spokes NOS or SS?